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negative creep
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
heres a kinda mini writeup for the setup i am running in the back. its simple and works very well, so if you're interested, look here.

add-a-leaf installation:
1. chock wheels, jack up rear of truck and put jack stands under the FRAME. (if you put them under the rear end, you won't ba able to do anything.)
2. put the jack under the side of the axle you're putting the leaf on, inside of the u-bolts.
3. with the jack stands under the frame and the jack under the side of the axle, you should be able to allow the one side of the axle to droop, taking the weight off the springs.
4. there is a c-clamp that goes around the spring to keep them from fanning out:

this also won't allow you to slide in the add-a-leaf.
5. So while me and damon were installing the rear end, we decided to put the add-a-leaves in as well. to get around the clamp, i just used a cut off wheel on a grinder and chopped the ears of the C part off:

this will allow the spring pack to come apart.
6. Back to the install part: undo the u-bolts and lower the axle down so that the axle is clear of the spring pack. with the spring pack just sitting there, put a c-clamp on the spring pack to keep it together and begin to undo the centering bolt.
7. once the centering bolt is out replace it with a long bolt or stud(this will keep the leaves from spreading apart, and you won't have to align each individual leafs centering hole when you put it back together, which can be a big pain.) start to loosen the c-clamp, this will allow the individual leaves to separate into their respective arches, but the stud you put in will keep them from completely falling apart.
8. install the add-a-leaf on top of the other leaves. the add-a-leaf i used went right below the main leaf, with the shorter end going forward.
9. use the c-clamp to compress the springs again when you put them back on. the stud should go through the centering hole on each leaf.
10. once the spring pack is back together, take the stud out and put a new centering bolt back in. (you will more than likely need a new one anyway, so plan on getting longer ones from the start). tighten the centering bolt to 30ft/lbs. (i needed 2 washers to make sure the nut sat on there good)
11. jack the rearend back up. [NOTE: you still need the factory wedge block to get the right pinion angle] retorque the stock u-bolts to 90ft/lbs.
12. lower the truck and go to the otherside.
13. recheck the torque on the u-bolts after driving around for awhile to make sure they haven't loosened
14. DONE and go enjoy your new found lift/flex.


as you can see, not having the clamp coming across the top of the spring really allows the springs to flex.


special thanks to plug ugly for the help with the install :thumbup
 

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negative creep
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
the add-a-leaf on the left is maybe 1/2" out of alignment, the right side is fine. nothing a hammer won't bring back into alignment. i'm very stoked with the setup, the only thing i'm worried about is if i am putting too much stress on the main leaf. are there any stock leafs that came military wrap style?
 

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So, you removed the clip that was holding them together, did you replace it some how? Or is there a way to replace it?

EDIT: Oh, good write up I will be using it soon. Thanks.
 

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negative creep
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
look closely at the pics. i just cut the ears that go across the top of the spring off. this allows the leafs to come apart vertically.
 

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i dont understand how this will help flex, can you explain? i had add a leafs in my spring packs before, and i removed them and flex increased(the add a leaf was on the bottom of the pack tho)

thanks
 

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negative creep
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
the main part that improves flex is cutting the tops of the c-clamps off. it allows the springs to pull apart like in this picture:
 

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negative creep
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
it sits level with the 4" front lift, maybe 1/2" lower in the back at most. i try not to think of things in terms of X" of lift, more all i care is that it fits 35s.
 

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negative creep
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
a 2" lift will roughly level you out with the rear. 4" front and an add-a-leaf rear will sit level. i really like the add-a-leaf, rides fine and it has actually really helped with the wheelhop i used to get in the sand. lots of people swear by full leafs but i think these pics speak for themselves as to trail performance:


and the best part is the AAL is dirt cheap.
 

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Welcome to the jungle
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You can find deals on Add-a-leaves all the time. Guys will pull them out when they upgrade their suspension again (similair to what you're thinking).

I think 2" in the front will level the Bronco, since the rear rides roughly 2" higher stock. So, 2" front and a 3.5" add a leaf would have you cruising with your butt in the air.
 

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Pissin' into the wind
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Looks good Andy, I'll be doing the same once I get my 4 inch Rancho lift, it comes with AAL...but I think I'm going 33's.
 

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negative creep
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Lonestar_Bronco said:
I think 2" in the front will level the Bronco, since the rear rides roughly 2" higher stock. So, 2" front and a 3.5" add a leaf would have you cruising with your butt in the air.
exactly. why you so stuck on a 2" front anyway? its not as cheap as everyone wants you to think if you do it properly. if you're going to lift it, may as well do it right and at least get a 4".
 

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negative creep
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
springs = just about the same cost between 2 and 4" (like $150)
alignment bushings = necessary on both counts (depends, but mine were like $50)
new shocks = necessary on both counts, unless you want 2" of lift with 0-1" of droop (depends, but at least $200 if you want to do it close to right)

search around for used stuff and you can get a 4" lift for like $200or less more than what a 2" will cost you. trust me, you won't be satisfied with 2" of lift and you're going to want at least a 4" lift and you're going to have to spend that money all over again.
 

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Andy thanks for the info, I've been looking to do an AAL and your quick write up helped me with some ideas. My springs are starting to sag & has been riding ass low, hopefully not much longer though!
 

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stangmata50l said:
How much were you talking?

And you think 2" in the front + rear AAL will be ok?
i did a 2.5" in the front and AAL in the rear, sits pretty level, if anything id say the front is higher. But that might just be a freak occurance
 

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negative creep
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
update on the leafs fanning out: i got a bigger hammer; that put them back into place.
 

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Andy, do you have a pic of those unclamped leafs when they are compressed during a flex? I'm curious to see how close they come together under load.

Also, I can get 2.5" wide (2" lift) AALs for $30, and 3" wide ones for $60. I was told that I shouldnt use a 2.5" wide AAL with my 3" wide stock leafs. Do you know if that is still the case, if I plan to do what you did, and not attach the ends?

I don't really need to lift the rear, I'm only doing the front to help my messed up alignment. But if I can do the rear for $30, then I figure I might as well.

Thanks.
 

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I really wouldn't recommend this mod to anyone. When the axle is at full droop, the main leaf is taking all the weight. Plus when you do this mod the main leaf is taking up all the axle wrap which it was not designed to do. I frequently see bent/s-wrapped Old Man Emu leaf spring where jokers removed the clip bolts, and quite naturally we do not warranty them.

There are better ways to get flex out of your springs...
 
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