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Also the tag on my original is gone. PO must have put new gear fluid in at one point and left the tag off. It says h something on the door jam. And there is an h in the tag off the donor axle. The front is still the ttb so I assumed it's all stock. And yes the teeth all look good... I don't see an LS anywhere on the donor tag. The donor also came off of a 95 Ford bronco xlt 5.8... an exact match make and model. So after months of serching Philly and Delaware this was all I could find. I only paid 150 for it. And my old man knows the guy so he told me he'd warranty it. Any problems bring it in and he would find me something else maybe. I might have it wrong through. Maybe it's not an 8.8. I'm not real familiar with the rear end yet... Kinda just fixing what needs to be fixed as I go. And I have put a lot of money in her already. By my standards. But she is my DD and I enjoy doing the work. I just didn't want to risk messing anything up by rebuilding the inside of the diff. My original was all chewed up. And I just barely got her In the driveway when it happened. So I figured a new donor rear would have been the best option.
 

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The h5 or h9 on the door jamb means it was an LS axle. The new axle tag should have a 3L55 or 4L11 if it's a limited slip. It'll just say 3_55 or 4_11 if it's a standard axle.

Yes you can swap your VSS directly over. Be aware that they can be finicky to remove.
 

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You also need to make sure your front and rear ratio match, or you can't use 4x4 without breaking something.

Only way to be absolute sure is to find the marking on each ring gear or count teeth. You can count driveshaft revolutions per tire revolution too. 3.5 DS rotations per tire rev would be 3.55 gears. 4 would be 4.11 gears, and so on.
 

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Thanks for the replies you guys. I'm thankful to have such a helpful community to look for guidance. So if my door jamb says hi and there's a 3l on the donor tag I would be okay? Sorry I don't have much information on hand as im at work only checking this while taking a piss or a drink. Haha. Are there any write ups for doing this, or is it just that self explanatory that none exist?
 

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H9 is a 3.55 LS. 3L is also 3.55 LS.

Once you get the rear bolted in, jack up the front axle, lock the hub in and spin one tire one revolution. The front driveshaft should spin 3.5 times. If not, someone swapped the gears.

The axle is pretty simple to install as its just a replacement and no cutting is required. A Haynes or Chilton manual would be a great help.

Make sure to soak the bolts and brake line fitting with penetrant a couple time before you are ready to tear it apart.
 

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Thanks brother. I really appreciate all your advice. And I will be getting a Haynes manual a lot sooner than later after all the issues I've been having. And I will definitely soak everything before hand. Thanks again.
 

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Just a forewarning, the Haynes and Chilton have been known to have some issues, but they are worth having imo. There are ford manuals available but they are more costly, depending on versions.

Are you gonna replace the brakes, bearings and seals while you're at it? I'd advise it.
 

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The brakes were in my plan originally. I'm now going to focus on learning about the bearing and seals now because of your advisory. Here's hoping I can figure it out and find it's not too hard.
 

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Should be just one bearing and seal per side. It's been a while since I opened up a ford 8.8. They may be fine, but it's a whole lot easier to do it all at once.

If you need a puller, don't forget you can rent almost any specialty tool at the auto parts stores for nothing more than a deposit.
 

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Thanks again big blue. You have been a good send. I think I have everything I need to get this job done. Thank you very much for all your tips and guidance. It is very much appreciated. I'll be sure to post some pictures of the finished job once it's done.
 

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Is a 3/4 ton F250 1985 axle worth keeping to replace my 1984 1/2 ton axle? I have no plate on the 1/2 ton and haven’t checked the 3/4 ton to see if it has one. I’ll likely have to open mine up to count teeth (pita) I already have 1 ton springs on it... rides like shit empty.
 

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Is a 3/4 ton F250 1985 axle worth keeping to replace my 1984 1/2 ton axle? I have no plate on the 1/2 ton and haven’t checked the 3/4 ton to see if it has one. I’ll likely have to open mine up to count teeth (pita) I already have 1 ton springs on it... rides like shit empty.
You ask an ambiguous question; how about being more specific?

Answer these:
Worth keeping for what?
Rockcrawling?
Towing?
Just a general upgrade?
Is it a full-floating axle?
Is it ready to 'plug-n-play'?
Does it need rebuilding?
 

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You ask an ambiguous question; how about being more specific?

Answer these:
Worth keeping for what?
Rockcrawling?
Towing?
Just a general upgrade?
Is it a full-floating axle?
Is it ready to 'plug-n-play'?
Does it need rebuilding?
Unsure on plug and play... gotta check mine and if it has a tag.....not sure if it’s junk? The whole truck was a gift! Not sure what’s under it as I haven’t looked yet..., as for the why?!?!? My rig is a hunting, pulling, recovery, get to the downed animal rig.... that due to circumstances it just became our daily driver (TLW’s Subaru Outback threw a timing belt) is love to strengthen the suspension since I’m going to keep this thing going for a long time. My question is...., should I keep the free 3/4 ton or look for something else?
 
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