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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
How do you get the rear brake hose off? I replaced the two front ones, but the rear one won't come off. I put a socket on the nut that is there, but all it felt like I was going to do was snap it off.

Here's a pic:

 

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Try soaking it in penetrating fluid for a while. I tried doing mine three years ago and had the same result as you. Then last year (the day before going on a four day trip), the pedal got soft. Turned out to be a pin hole in the hard line, right where the hard line and rubber line meet up at the frame. Thought I'd change the hose while I was at it. Nothing went smooth! Only the right hard line came off in tact. Even had to replace a wheel cylinder cuz everything was so seized.

Sorry for the possible bad news.
 

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Surrounded by Assholes
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I mangled the crap outta mine and had to get it out with vise-grips after I rounded it off. Soak it with penetrating fluid, and gently work it out for awhile.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Steve83 said:
Are you talking about the vent nipple that holds the junction block down, or the inverse flare nuts that hold the brake lines in the junction block?
The vent nipple.
 

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does the "T" on the brake line turn with the bolt when you try to back it out? chances are the bolt is seized to the brake line and not the axle tube. At least thats whats happened to me every time.
 

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TTB Will Survive
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Steve83 said:
The vent nipple is steel with pipe threads at the bottom - the junction block is brass with a smooth hole. They can't actually seize together, but the rust from the nipple will swell, binding inside the brass. ...
I always love your exact descriptions. :thumbup

Same thing happened to one of mine. Steve83 is right, spray them with some type of looseing spray, then try to use a wrench made for brake lines (Its late, I've had to many beers and can't remember what its called.) If it strips, than unfortunately you'll have to use vise grips to get it loose. Then you can you an adjustable wrench or the socket to pull it off of the axle.

If you are doing a lift, pro-comp make a new brake line and the whole rear adapter. They are pretty cheap and are steal braided brake lines. then continue with Steve83 suggestion to knock out the nipple.

**Suggestion, when putting it back in, I put 2 washers between the brass juction box and the axle. it gives me more room for the brake wrenches and vise grips if I have to do it ghetto style.**
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
MikE2 said:
does the "T" on the brake line turn with the bolt when you try to back it out?
No, nothing moved when I tried to get the vent nipple off, and I thought something might break. That's why I was wondering if something special had to be done to get it off.


Steve83 said:
The vent nipple is steel with pipe threads at the bottom - the junction block is brass with a smooth hole. They can't actually seize together, but the rust from the nipple will swell, binding inside the brass. Remove the hard lines, disconnect the hose from the frame, & let it spin with the nipple. Then drive the nipple out of the brass & clean everything off.
Ok, so when you turn the nut, it will turn the whole vent tube that goes through the junction block?
 

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Steve83 said:
The vent nipple is steel with pipe threads at the bottom - the junction block is brass with a smooth hole. They can't actually seize together, but the rust from the nipple will swell, binding inside the brass. Remove the hard lines, disconnect the hose from the frame, & let it spin with the nipple. Then drive the nipple out of the brass & clean everything off.
Its actually 7/16" fine thread, not pipe.
1/4" pipe might fit if you jam it in there though
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok, thanks for all the help. Hopefully this weekend I can get the brake hose replaced.
 
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