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Discussion Starter #1
Heres the story. On the weekend the rear brake line blew in the bko, nows its a 1995 with 105 000 miles on it and the MC was replaced new at ford 2 years ago worked great always a solid pedal. I replaced all the lines from the hyrdobooster back to the rear axel and both lines over the axel, including the rubber line splitter. Drums were rebuild new less than a year ago, but i had to replace a piston in the left rear as the bleeder was seized. The drums in the back need still to be adjusted with a couple of hard stops in reverse. But after 3-4 times bleeding the brakes i find the pedal still soft. Now im no brake expert, but i need another opinion on what to do maybe some direction.
Thanks for all your help
Jay:beer
 

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Lick my balls
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Try adjusting the brakes with the drums off so they are just touching the drums. Don't rely on reverse braking to adjust your brakes
 

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try gravity bleeding i had the same problem and a friend of mine came over he's an exmacanic thats what we did solved my problem.. just do the farthest 1 first and keep resavor full... i went threw 2 quarts when i did it....
 

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Driving Stuff Henry Built
-90 xlt, 351w, e4od, man 1356, 3.55, sag, warn hubs, 35s. -73, 400, np435, d20j twin, 35s
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I'm with Waltman, adjust the drum brakes close by hand & let the auto adjusters finish them up. BTW, it doesn't need to be a hard stop in reverse, just normal braking in reverse. Each reverse stop moves the adjuster very little until they're right, so it takes a lot of stops if you don't get them close by hand. If the rears aren't adjusted it will cause a low pedal.

My 90 only has rear ABS & has a 5th bleeder on the RABS valve that needs to be bled after the rears. Your 95 should have 4 wheel ABS, does the 4 wheel system have any other bleeders?

How are you bleeding the brakes? I use the old 2 man brake bleed, here's a copy if you're not familiar with it:

2 Man Brake Bleed
1-Usual safety stuff (Block the wheels, trans in correct gear, on safe axle stands if jacked up, etc.). -Broncos are high enough you should be able do do this without jacking it up.
2-Check the level of the brake fluid, add if needed. Recheck periodically & add as needed throughout the bleeding process. Do not allow it to run out. If it runs out, you must start over.
3-Have your helper pump the brake pedal a few times & then hold it down. Do not let the pedal up while the bleeder is open.
4-Open the bleeder valve, observe the fluid flowing from the bleeder. Fluid & air bubbles can spray, it's best to run a clear hose from the bleeder into a container. Some would say wear safety goggles. Keep your mouth closed :toothless.
5-Close the bleeder valve while the pedal is still depressed.
6-Have the helper pump the brake pedal, observe height of pedal.
7-Repeat steps 2-6 until no bubbles are seen in the fluid from the bleeder valve, then move to the next wheel, following this order: RR, LR, RF, LF (On newer trucks with the RABS valve, it's RR, LR, RABS valve, RF, LF. On trucks that are newer still with 4 wheel ABS, I don't know). Be sure that each bleeder is closed before moving on. If the brakes are otherwise in good condition, adjusted, & not leaking, the pedal should be firm when done.
8-Check the level of the brake fluid, add if needed. Recheck again soon to be sure fluid isn't leaking.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the responses, Now that i realize it your right i may need to adjust the drum the i repaired better. The way i am bleeding is the two man way but i didnt have a hose in some brake fluid so i may be sucking air back in. Im heading back to to tonight and ill update later tommorow.
Thx Jay
 

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Thanks for the responses, Now that i realize it your right i may need to adjust the drum the i repaired better. The way i am bleeding is the two man way but i didnt have a hose in some brake fluid so i may be sucking air back in. Im heading back to to tonight and ill update later tommorow.
Thx Jay
I've never use the hose in brake fluid thing, and it always works out good. Your bronco takes a lot of fluid because of the abs, so you need to flush a lot through it to get the air out.
 

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Driving Stuff Henry Built
-90 xlt, 351w, e4od, man 1356, 3.55, sag, warn hubs, 35s. -73, 400, np435, d20j twin, 35s
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8,180 Posts
Yeah, the only reason for the hose in my book is to keep it from spraying. If your helper doesn't let the pedal up until you close the bleeder, no air should enter through the bleeder, with or without a hose.
 
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