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Discussion Starter #1
I'm just so frustrated in getting my rear brakes to hold when applying the EB pedal. I thought it was fine, but it really wasn't holding that good. So today I decided to get this done right - finally. I jacked up the rear of my bronco and removed both drums. I want to make sure that the rear shoes and the mechanisms are expanding and working properly when applying the EB. So I recorded a few videos to show what happens when applying the EB. Can you all take a look at this and let me know your thoughts are ? Good to be back and thanks!


 

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Mine is the same way I have to mash it as hard as I can to make it hold the bronco from rolling. I wish mine was better too. Looks like it is working right
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well I’m not the only one I guess. What gets me is that when I put the drums on I get to the point of a slight drag when adjusting the drum star wheel. I then put the E-brake on while the rear is still on stands and can’t even turn the wheel by hand. So now when I pull up my driveway and apply the E-brake the bronco will roll back. I don’t get it because I know the shoe is expanding properly - shown in the two video. So, do I adjust even more with the star wheel. So I’m basically adjusting the drums to the point where they don’t turn. Doesn’t seem right....


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Its far easier for the weight of the truck with the leverage of the wheel to turn against a brake than for you to turn it. Even if it feels very solid it may still allow the truck to roll. As the brake drums wear the pads will sit in a groove. The end result is a lip on the end of the drum. If you adjust it so that this lip just fits over the pads they may not be close enough to the drum once installed. They're supposed to self adjust but I've yet to come across a drum brake car that actually self adjusted after a brake job. I like to adjust them with them completely assembled, both for ease and to rule out the lip as a source of problems. Takes some practice and feel but you can do it pretty easily, I like to adjust them till I just start to hear them drag then back off a bit. It could also be shoes/drums that are not in good condition, or an issue in the E brake mechanism. There's a sacrificial piece in line with the cable that will stretch if too much force is applied, so if with new shoes and properly adjusted brakes the pedal is still going too low before it grabs I'd look at that.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Thanks for the advice. I adjusted the shoes today by expanding them ever further out. Everything installed on my Bronco are new parts. Cable, drums and hardware. I’m going to pull it out of the garage tomorrow to see how it holds on my driveway. I’m assuming with all the minor brake show adjustments, it will have to hold at some point. Thanks again....


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Here’s going to be the tricky part, does the pedal move any distance before the parking brake arm? There’s an adjuster under the truck to adjust at what point the arm moves with the leaver, it is also connected to both sides at a splitter, are they adjusted snug and at the same length at the splitter?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I did notice in the top video of this post ( Rear Brakes - Passenger Side ) the parking brake arm moves about a 1/4 inch before the shoes start to expand. Do you think this is the issue? The rear cables are adjusted equally and snug at the splitter.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So I finally got it to hold on an incline. I jacked up the rear 3x and placed on jack stands.
1st time expanded shoes with three clicks of the star wheel upward - Didn't hold.
2nd time expanded shoes with three clicks of the star wheel upward - Didn't hold.
3rd time expanded shoes with three clicks of the wheel upward - It held!
Not sure why I jacked up the rear during this because the wheel would not turn at all through this process. Anyway, thanks for your help...
 

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Make sure your not rubbing with the brake off. I typically will have an assistant rotate the tire while on stands in neutral, I click till it starts to rub the drum, then I back it of one click at a time (requires 2 tools) until it does not rub. FWIW auto adjust brakes require you to go in reverse and brake hard (at least the older ones) but I know guys that have over done it and had a hard time getting them to loosen.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
If the brakes are rubbing, would you hear this driving? Im pretty strong and cannot rotate the tires when the rear is jacked up - as it sits now and holding on an incline. Could it be something with the 4WD setting?
 

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If your back tires are off the ground and your transmission is in neutral my 130 lbs wife should be able to turn your tire.... with one hand.
 

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Your too damn far from me to give you some on site help, if there too tight they will heat up as if you were driving with the brakes slightly pushed. You’ll feel heat coming from the drum..DON’T touch it after a drive just get your hand close, you’ll also smell it.
My brake job tip... put cardboard under the wheel your working on and on both sides of you, as you take things off lay them out in order of removal and on the appropriate side of the work space, also before I start any project now I take lots of pictures and a video as my phone sweeps around what I’m f#€king up.., err fixing.
 

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Say it wasn't in neutral but in 2H would it be much more difficult to turn?
Ya your pushing the transmission and engine, if it has a manual shifter put it in neutral so your T-case is disengaged. You could also drop the back driveline, but in neutral at the transmission and transfer case they should be easy to turn.
 
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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks Mojo. Appreciate your input. I'll get it working. What else do I have to do during this time...
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ya your pushing the transmission and engine, if it has a manual shifter put it in neutral so your T-case is disengaged. You could also drop the back driveline, but in neutral at the transmission and transfer case they should be easy to turn.
Yeah, I think I had it in 2H. I'll check that tomorrow. Thanks again.....
 

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Discussion Starter #17
So I have the gear box set to “N” and the transmission is free. When I attempted to turn the rear wheels by hand the rear drive shaft to the gearbox turns. Is this right? The rear wheels are still very hard to turn by hand....





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Discussion Starter #18
I finally got it. Jacked up the rear and took off the drums. Once again confirmed all mechanics were working properly. Contracted the shoes so the drums fit on easy. With the drums on, I started to get an idea of the resistance when I turn each drum by hand. This part was important to me so I could feel how hard or easy the drums turned-by hand. Surely doesn’t spin as freely as I thought even with the tire on.(like on newer cars) I then went slowly on each drum and expanded the shoes and got a good feel for a slight drag. Tested it with the e-Brake on and all is good now....Thanks all for your help


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There are 2 adjustments that affect the e-brake. The shoes & the rod at the equalizer. If you got it to work by adjusting the shoes alone, they're probably too tight.

You adjust the shoes 1st. They should have almost no drag when you turn the wheel. They are adjusted so the hydraulic brakes work properly, not the e-brake. Self adjusters should adjust them perfectly by backing up & applying & releasing the hydraulic brakes repeatedly. Once they are adjusted properly the e-brake might not work yet.

Second you adjust the e-brake at the nut for the equalizer. Where the 2 cables from the rear brakes come together there is a wig-wag bar they attach to. It swivels to allow differences between the 2 sides to be equalized. In the center of that bar is a nut. That nut adjusts the e-brake.

I'm out of time, but I'll try to find a pic soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks for your reply. About adjusting the equalizer nut. The nut on mine is at the very end of the threads. (see pic)- Close to where the spring connects. When I tighten it just a little my e-Brake pedal will not go down at all with no clicks or ratcheting action. I’m wondering is my new front cable that attaches to the pedal assembly too short? There’s not much of an adjustment I can to with this nut. What you think?





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