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Discussion Starter #1
I went to get my emissions done yesterday and they told me they could because my rear brakes weren't working so I went home and took a look and it seems like there was air in the like only on the rear driver side. So I bled them but the brake still only works after I pump the brakes a few times. Do I just need to keep bleeding them or is it possible that something else is to blame for this? Thanks for any input or advice you guys give me
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I did when I changed my brakes a few months ago but not last night
 

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How does the ruber brake line look in hte back? If you had air on one side in the rear you probably have air on the otherside as well. The rear brakes use 1 line and split when they drop down to the diff. Bleed both sides and I would even try to flush some of the old brake fuild out by bleeding the rear for several minutes and using up a 12 bottle of brake fluid at least. old fluid can contain water which can act as if there is air in hte line as well.
 

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MARBLE GARGLER!
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Mine had frozen rear wheel cylinders, Only cost 10 bucks ea. to replace.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
How does the ruber brake line look in hte back? If you had air on one side in the rear you probably have air on the otherside as well. The rear brakes use 1 line and split when they drop down to the diff. Bleed both sides and I would even try to flush some of the old brake fuild out by bleeding the rear for several minutes and using up a 12 bottle of brake fluid at least. old fluid can contain water which can act as if there is air in hte line as well.
The line appears to be fine but I will take a closer look when I bleed the old fluid out
 

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Driving Stuff Henry Built
-90 xlt, 351w, e4od, man 1356, 3.55, sag, warn hubs, 35s. -73, 400, np435, d20j twin, 35s
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On a 90 there's a 5th bleeder on the RABS valve. It's inside the driver's side frame rail, sort of below the master cylinder. The bleeding order is RR, LR, RABS, RF, LF. Make sure the master cylinder doesn't run out of fluid, or you have to start over.
 

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The RABS valve is notorious for failing (i replaced two this last week on an f150 and an f350) Easy to change though. If you continue to have pedal fade, check this part out (and obviously the master cyl).
 

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~*~*~*~*~*~*~
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If you have a leaky wheel cylinder (not frozen), then you'll have to pump it to get them to work. If there is a pressure loss on one side, the other side won't work either. You need to take the drums off and inspect for leakage.

If one side is "frozen" (not leaking), then the other side would work because there wouldn't be any pressure loss.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
ok thanks guys ill check it out and let all of you know whats going on
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Just letting you guys know what's going on. I bled out the brakes and put new brake fluid in and bled the brakes. They are working now so I'm going back the get my emissions done after work... wish me luck.
 

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Here's a tip to help you PASS your Smog Test Brother........new plugs, O2 sensor (if needed) and back your timing down say to 6 or even 4 degrees......drive it for 1 hour before and then right before you go in to TEST, stop and add 1/2 gallon = 64 oz. = 2 x 32 oz. bottles of 91 % Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol to 1/4 tank of gas and you WILL sail thru....

The alcohol mixed with the gasoline creates moisture and cleans out a high percentage of HC and CO % along with the rest across the board..

See thread: I done failed my emissons test.....numbers are posted....


The alcohol runs abot $5.50 total and can be found in Walmart or most drug store chains.....only use the 91 % alcohol......

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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I just went tru this in Sept.09 without any indications of that and my timing was at 4 degrees BTDC...I use the TEST ONLY facility in Manhattan Beach on Sepulveda across from the mall and I've been going there for quite some time..

It seems to me in Cali they're more interested in a "visual inspection" to see if all the emissions components are where they're supposed to be but I've never seen a tech "hook up" a timing light to check and I'm not sure whatever computer they use reflects timing though you think it would........

I think at 8 or even 6 degrees BTDC with the 91% alcohol it would still pass.......but I've only got around 7800 miles on the new engine I installed........besides he's in Mesa Az......so who knows...lol lol

I intend to do exactly what I did this past Sept. for every future Smog Test....hopefully with the same results.....


Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well after work I got in my bronco and started it up and sure enough my brakes were squishy again but I figured it wouldn't hurt to at least try so I pumped my brakes a few times before I pulled in and no rear brakes. I'm getting pissed now looks like another late night
 

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I just went tru this in Sept.09 without any indications of that and my timing was at 4 degrees BTDC...I use the TEST ONLY facility in Manhattan Beach on Sepulveda across from the mall and I've been going there for quite some time..

It seems to me in Cali they're more interested in a "visual inspection" to see if all the emissions components are where they're supposed to be but I've never seen a tech "hook up" a timing light to check and I'm not sure whatever computer they use reflects timing though you think it would........

I think at 8 or even 6 degrees BTDC with the 91% alcohol it would still pass.......but I've only got around 7800 miles on the new engine I installed........besides he's in Mesa Az......so who knows...lol lol

I intend to do exactly what I did this past Sept. for every future Smog Test....hopefully with the same results.....


Good Luck ~ :thumbup
just letting you know, thats what they are suposed to do. whether or not the tech actually does that. welllllllllll
 
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