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hey guys heres the deal im changing the wheel cylinders on my 89 bronco and cant get the passenger side drum to come off the driver side came off easy but i cant get the brake adjuster screw to turn and i know theres that little keeper thing that keeps it from turnin and ive moved it out of the way,but still it wont turn, now last winter the wheel cylinder went out and leaked all over it so im thinkin that maybe the screw is corroded from the fluid, any suggestions? and thanks in advanced for any feedback
 

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Sometimes if the adjustable "star" key points are worn it makes it hard to turn but instead of a brake spoon try a good sharp flat head screw driver to bite there and try to retract the shoes so the drum will come off. Once off, disassemble all the brake parts for cleaning or replacement and unscrew the adustable key, clean the threads and use anti-seize so it will turn easier in the future BUT if the points are worn down just replace the keys.

Replacing wheel cylinders is not a difficult job but use a good quality product then double check the "bolts" for the backing plate to the axle flange are torqued properly so the backing plate isn't loose otherwise it will "ratchet" back/forth when braking in D or R and could shear off a bolt/s causing serious carnage in there and ability to stop.

Also check to make sure the little "cable" for the self adjusters isn't frayed otherwsie replace.

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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Roller rockers are gay
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try what JKoss said (dude wtf is your name anyway?) and use a brake spoon to try and turn the adjuster.

oh, and get a big ****ing hammer too. you might just have rust built up on the hub surface. i've had many drums that i needed to beat the shit out of, to get them off. you may need to pry the drum off too, as a rust ridge forms on the back of the drum where the shoes do not ride. this ridge can catch on the brake shoes. the way to pry it off is to pry at 3 o clock, go to 9 oclock, back to 3, then to 9 oclock, 12 oclock, etc you get the point.
 

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oh, and get a big ****ing hammer too.
This

Or a pipe wrench, or jack handle. Just something metal, heavy, and easy to swing. 90% of the brake drums I've ever pulled have required a bfh.
 

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The shoes shouldnt be out so far the drum is catching on them anyways. Unless the drums are smooth wore out and have a major lip on them. If this be the case probably time for new drums too. Yake the hammer and hit the drum edge while rotating the drum. Just find a comfortable spot to swing it and rotate the drum to where you are hitting in a different place each time.
 

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now last winter the wheel cylinder went out and leaked all over it so im thinkin that maybe the screw is corroded from the fluid, any suggestions?
Contrary to popular belief fluid leaks prevent corrosion;), as dirt and mud build up on it protecting it from water. Some of the cleanest parts on my truck were covered in oil.
 

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oh, and get a big ****ing hammer too.
That's what I had to do the other day when my Right Rear locked up on me. It was like the brake had ratcheted out. When I got it off, the entire internal area was rusty. Drivers side was perfect and came right off. I couldn't get the ratchet mechanism to move either through the small service hole on the back plate. Just go easy with it and it'll eventually come off.
 

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No, no BFH's........either a brake spoon or a good wide flat head screw driver and using a good light where the adjusting hole is in the backing plate, shine the light in there so you can actually see the star adjuster "pushing" on the adjuster in the right direction to retract, check Chptr.9 in the Haynes Manual, there's an illustration and just be very patient working trying to work the drum CW or CCW then pull it towards you, repeat until it comes off.

TheUnforgiven: my name Jose Emanis...:chili::chili::chili:..lol lol.....you're probably all too young to remember Bill Dana the comedian, Ed Sulivan Show...it's Jean Michel Kossarides, the 3rd after my father and grandfather, if it's good enough for them AND "Jean" Claude VanDamn, good enough for me, IT STAYS...........lol lol

Are ya all :iiss happy now!!!!!!!!!....lol lol :histerica

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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No, no BFH's........either a brake spoon or a good wide flat head screw driver and using a good light where the adjusting hole is in the backing plate, shine the light in there so you can actually see the star adjuster "pushing" on the adjuster in the right direction to retract, check Chptr.9 in the Haynes Manual, there's an illustration and just be very patient working trying to work the drum CW or CCW then pull it towards you, repeat until it comes off.

TheUnforgiven: my name Jose Emanis...:chili::chili::chili:..lol lol.....you're probably all too young to remember Bill Dana the comedian, Ed Sulivan Show...it's Jean Michel Kossarides, the 3rd after my father and grandfather, if it's good enough for them AND "Jean" Claude VanDamn, good enough for me, IT STAYS...........lol lol

Are ya all :iiss happy now!!!!!!!!!....lol lol :histerica

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
Jose is much easier and shorter...
 

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Roller rockers are gay
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thanks, nice to know your name now. mines brian, shorter than theunforgiven.

Jose, brake spoon and getting the shoes to back off is great, however if the surfaces have rusted together where the hub and the drum meet, the force of BFH is needed to break it loose.

I was the brake guy at the last shop i worked at, and more often than not i either could not reach the adjuster (due to angle, or lack of access hole), could not turn it (rust), and most of the time backing the shoes off did nothing to get the drum to break loose from the hub.

maybe in california you may not need a BFH, but here in chicagoland (rustbelt) a BFH is a MUST for getting drums, and often-times rotors off the car.

i've had drums that were stuck really bad, and after a couple of "giving it my all" swings, the drum would pop 90% off the shoes.

when it comes to brakes, and rust, most likely there is nothing better than just brute force and lots of PB blaster.

i also anti-seize the shit out of rotors/drums and the hub mating surfaces before i put it all back together. i did this on my car last time i did rear brakes 3 years ago, and i just did them in october of this year. the rear rotors come off with a slight tug of my hand.
 

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I just did the driver's side wheel cylinder on my 88 Eddie Bauer and I had the same problem as you. The star wheel was siezed. I had to gently tap the hub and drum (never beat on a brake drum) and slowly walk the drum off with 2 small pry bars. This should only be used as a last resort. I figured I'm replacing the saturated brake shoes anyway so if they get damaged it's no big deal. I cleaned everything up and put that same star wheel back in with the new shoes in place. I just turned it and slid the drum over the shoes until I was satisfied with the setting and everything is working mint now.
 

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X2 for beast runner, that seems less damaging but you do what you got to do to get it off.....:histerica...lol lol

When you click on "go advanced" for the first set of cartoons in the lower bottom left is [More] and if you click that another window opens with more cartoons to choose from and the pissing monkey is on the right side just scroll.


Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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I am absolutely a proponent of moving the adjusting star of the self adjuster to allow easier removal of the drum. Unfortunately I rarely THINK IT THROUGH before I start, and try adjusting the star in one direction, and if it tightens the drum, then I move it in the other direction (which always seems to take more effort!) Sooo... here is my little note of wisdom on the subject.

Since the adjuster lever is on the outside of the star, it will push the outside of the star in a downward direction to expand the bolt length, and tighten the brakes towards the drum. That makes the inside of the star (where the adjuster holes are) go in an upward direction to tighten the drums. Since you want to loosen the drums, you have to spin the inside of the star in a downward direction.
 
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