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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #1
So a few months ago my rear end blew, lost a bunch of teeth on the pinion, was just driving to the store. This is maybe the 3rd time this has happened, ring and pinion falling just during normal driving. Not sure if it's a set up issue of strength, either way it's time to upgrade.

I know the popular thing would be to find a 10.25 and covert the front to 8 lug but after gearing, arb locker, disc brake conversion and a rebuild I'm in the $2500 range just for the rear. I have parts for the front but I will need to get new wheels and tire and convert my spare tire carrier to hold and 8 lug wheel and upgrade the booster and master cylinder. So after all said and done, I'm probably looking at around 5-6k with the rear,the front, brake upgrade and 5 new wheels and tires.

So my other thought was to go with a 5 lug dana 60 from one of the many axle builders like dynatrac or currie which I'm guessing (need to make some calls) would be sound 4k for a rear, but it only a semi-float rear but still probably stronger than what I have now.

Thoughts.
 

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I did all for the Nookie
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7,252 Posts
I wish sometimes I still had axle clearance of a 8.8. I know there is a semi float version of the 10.25 out there I wonder if could do a custom axleshaft drilled for 5 lug.

How are you breaking 8.8's so easy though? Everyone says the 8.8 is such a great axle it's not like you're running huge tires.
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #4
I wish sometimes I still had axle clearance of a 8.8. I know there is a semi float version of the 10.25 out there I wonder if could do a custom axleshaft drilled for 5 lug.

How are you breaking 8.8's so easy though? Everyone says the 8.8 is such a great axle it's not like you're running huge tires.
I don't really know, I don't really beat on it and doesn't get wheeled very hard. Seems to last a few years before it fails, not sure if its a set up issue or a failure of the metal.
 

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Bronco Snob
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2,306 Posts
Have you or the same person or shop done all installations previous to the other failures? Could it be installer error? :shrug...coming from previous experience in that dept.
 

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aka: kemicalburns
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7,840 Posts
post up some pictures, perhaps the pinion depth isn't correct. Ive seen a shallow gear pattern result in breakage.
 

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Local # 40 Boilermakers
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15,787 Posts
I built my 10.25 with a Detroit, Yukon 4.88's, new shock tabs, spring perches, disc brakes, upgraded the yoke and all new seals and bearings for $1700 including the price of the axle. I will cut you a deal on the 8 lug d44 parts I have too ;)
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #10
Since I already have an ARB in the rear, I would like to keep it that way since it's still a DD, but will add a few hundred. I have all the parts to do the 44 8 lug swap already, so I'm set there.

One if my issue is having to buy 5 wheels and tires just to do the swap, not many used sets up for sale around here.

The other issue is that I haven't had much luck finding a reasonably priced axle if I can find one at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I'm not really sure yet, need to call around a get some prices. Also need to talk to a buddy, he has 60 in his, just not sure where he got it from.

I would love to build a rear with a fabricated housing from ruffstuff, fully trussed with a 60 or 14bolt center section. I found a set of 5 lug hubs for a rear 60 that would be nice to use to, but maybe way outside the budget. Dreams
 

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Roller rockers are gay
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19,197 Posts
is this the same housing each time it has failed? I mean it IS a long shot but what if there's something minutely wrong with the housing that is causing these R&Ps to fail? If you're having it stripped, cleaned, and rebuilt with ALL new parts (bearings, R&P, carrier, locker, axles,etc) what else is left that could be causing them to die? Maybe it has a bad carrier if you're reusing it. Is it the same supplier for the R&P each time?

I'm just throwing it out there. I believe you when you say your driving isn't conducive to this 8.8 exploding every few years when there are people who bounce them off rocks all the time and rarely blow a shaft, much less the R&P. I feel there may be a different, cheaper solution before you drop 4k on a 5 lug 60 or 6k on a 10.25 and all the other $$$ and time to make it 8 lug.

however I can see the other side, how much MORE $$$ have you already spent and it keeps breaking vs just making it 3/4 ton and not breaking it again IF you don't beat it harder "knowing" it can handle it.
 

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I did all for the Nookie
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7,252 Posts
Jim you can still put a air locker in a sterling I put a Yukon zip locker in mine. Try Rons machining service that gear and locker package was no more than $1100. The UPS guy about had a hernia delivering it though and then he delivered the box with D60 parts. Sterlings are cheap, but so are 14bolts.
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #15
Jim you can still put a air locker in a sterling I put a Yukon zip locker in mine. Try Rons machining service that gear and locker package was no more than $1100. The UPS guy about had a hernia delivering it though and then he delivered the box with D60 parts. Sterlings are cheap, but so are 14bolts.

I know can run the arb in the sterling, was just saying it cost more.

The last sterling I saw for sale guys was asking $450, which seems kinda high to me.
 

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I did all for the Nookie
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Yeah $150 for one is to much to pay for a sterling around here. I passed one up for $50 when I purchased the ZF5 for mine. I would've brought it home, but I took the little dinky car.
 

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I'd rather be sleeping
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have you tried car-part.com? I found a 10.25 on there at a junkyard 55 miles from Northport for $130. You could possibly get it for less with cash in hand.
 

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Jim was the rear together when you had the axle truss welded on??? Wonder if the heat may of tweeked the housing or heated the gears up causing the to weaken. Its a long shot but something to think about...
 
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