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Discussion Starter #1
Alright, my 1st thread on FSB lets get it going! I have a 95 Bronco and the drivers rear leaf spring hanger has ripped through the bed skin and is protruding into the cabin of the truck! The passenger side isnt doing it, but I will have both sides fixed. What do I need to do about this? Is it as simple as lifting the body and hammering it all down and welding or, do I need to have braces put on or some kind of reinforcement plating??

Like I said, I want to do both sides at the same time, but it is only the drivers sdie that is FUBAR at the moment. Thanks for the help guys/gals!!:thumbup
 

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Ouch, sounds like a rough one. Is the frame rail still intact? If your frame is still good and it's just the bolts that failed it should be a straight-forward fix. On second hand those are grade 8 bolts so they probably tore through some component rather than failed. If you're lucky the failure was on the spring hanger side and not the frame side. If this was the case I'd remove the damaged parts and replace them with new. If you have any pictures they would help.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I can get pix up later today. But to try to paint a picture here: The spring hanger was rusted badly and so is the bed flooring. When I am in the bed I can see The longest leaf spring connected to the shackle(i believe) and this is still connected to the sheet metal lol. The passneger side is most likely going to fail the same way if I dont fix it. Luckily this is not my daily driver, but I want it fixed ASAP. Are you guys asking if the leaf spring is messed up? I dont think it is as it rode home form where I bought it fairly well. I don't think it messed up the frame, but I wont know that until I get under there and start trying to fix things. What do I look for to determine if the frame is bent. BTW, the hole for in the bed is big enough I can change the hanger bolts out with out getting under it haha.

By the way, I just ordered new rear leaf hangers, what do these connect to in accordance to the leaf spring? I thought it went:Hanger, shackle then connectes to the rear leaf. Is this correct? If so then i need to get nme some shackles too.
 

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penis
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HAHA mine are the same way LMAO. I need to reaplace mine as well. I would trailor it home be safe no sense to tear up tour BKO anymore then you need to.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
No its at my dads where I ave every tool to fix it including an electric welder and above ground lift, but I just need to know if it is beyond repair or what I need to do to fix this damage so I can drive it this summer.

I was looking under the truck where the leaf hangers go, I am confused as to why this even happened? What are the hangers connecte to, the frame or the bed sheeting?
 

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they connect to the frame, they can be replaced as long as the frame is ok, if the frame is also rotted, than you might as well junk the bronco.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Okay that is the good news I wanted to hear, wow whata relief, the frame is good(from what I can tell) so what must have happened is the hangers rusted and then this guy before me must have taken her ona rough ride and BOOM shot the suspension through the floor!? Well hopefully the rear axle is okay from all this damage.
 

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Those hangers are rivoted on. Torches help here, or you'll need to air chisel or drill off the heads. Replace with grade 8 bolts.

Also, replace the shackles, and have new bushings and spring/shackle bolts as well.

When doing this job, removing the shock(s) from the axle helps, and 6 ton jack stands are needed to get the truck up high enough to make line up a hell of a lot easier.

I DO NOT recommend using 3 ton stands for this job. The footing are not big enough for how high you have to lift the truck. Very unstable. Almost killed me once this way. Truck fell off the stands. Use 6 ton stands.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Dang those parts are expensive, even the ones stapmed MADE IN CHINA :(....BOO Okay so 165 bucks later I have hangers, shackles, and all the bushings and hardware came with the shackle kit. Should I use the kit bolts or use grade 8?? I won't post pix due to the frame being 100% intact and I can actually pick up the rear corner about 6 inches and see everything I need to fix. I did notice however the gas fill neck got bent upwards to the underbed a bit, but its not cut. So all in all it turned out to be an expensive fix but not irrepairable!! Thank you guys for your almost immediate responses!! I can tell I will like this site a lot!
 

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I wouldn't really call it an expensive fix. If you skate on $165, that's a simple repair. The bolts that came with the hanger should be grade 8. Look at the head and you should either see a number stamped or / marks on it. There should be a couple references online for bolts, just off hand I do believe they have 6 / marks. Metric should be stamped 10.9 for your application.
 

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IMO an angle grinder with cut off wheel works even faster than a torch. Cut the heads off on the bracket side....Get the bracket off, then grind the rivit down flush with the frame and knock em' out with a punch.

Of the parts stores Advanced Auto is cheapest. Online is even cheaper though.
The hardest part of the entire job is getting the metal sleeve out of the inside of the spring eye, so that you can replace the bushing. I torched most of it out and then knocked it out with a chisel....Chiseling out was super easy once it was mostly torched out.

Sand the inside of the spring good, and the outside of the bushing too. Put some oil on the bushings and peck them in.

Not that bad a job except the sleeve. Just did the drivers side because it broke, and the passenger side because it was going to break.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well I said expensive because I am a student with a on/off full time job. But it is money well spent! Well I will work on this project in the next 2 days or so and I'm sure I will be posting up if I run into issues. I have a chisel and gring wheel so I will keep both ideas in mind. Appreciate the info!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Have another quick questiona dn didnt want to waste a new thread. I took out my dash and reconnected all the parts after I painted it and now when I put in the key and turn the key to its fullest position just before it turns over and now I have a almost alarm sound coming from under the dash??? What is this? It goes away afte about 2 minutes of beeping lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
UPDATE: Got the drivers side done and it went failry well. Cut off wheels and propane troch made it sooooo much easier. Passenger side is next, then I'm off to strip paint and fix rust!
 
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