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Discussion Starter #1
When I put my engine back in, I want to ensure I never have to worry about the rear main seal leaking.
You might respond with "just make sure you install the seal properly" but I repeat, "I want to ensure I never have to worry about the rear main seal leaking."

From some research, it seems the odds are better at never having to worry about it leaking, if I were to install a repair sleeve.
But I'm having a heck of a time verifying the correct size sleeve to install.
Redi-sleeve and Speedi-sleeve seem to be common working names for the repair sleeve, but I think SKF may be the OEM?

THIS is the one I THINK is correct for my '94 351W + E40D.
Can anyone help by verifying?

It's part# 99372 and that part# is used by several different vendors.
It's 3.75" which is the same dimension as what I think is the correct part on my engine block that I just measured.

Also, I read @TRUCKY18 suggest you shouldn't use a Teflon seal with the sleeve. You need to use a rubber seal.
Has anyone seen a "kit" that comes with both the sleeve AND a seal that are designed to work together?


153515


Trucky's very helpful thread:
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Hah, I just noticed my engine builder already installed the rear main seal.
I'm going to assume he would have installed it much better than I ever would have.
So I will leave it alone and if it does leak, then I'll tackle it someday when I have to rebuild the transmission.

Random related video:
 

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Ford-a-Holic
1996 EB w/5.8 TOO much lift, 44" Mudders & 5:43-5:38's
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I've been using Speedi Sleeves for 30 years; swear by them. You won't be disappointed.
 

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There are sleeves that can be installed with the crankshaft still in the engine. If you really want it done, now's the time. Just ask him to remove that and install the sleeve and a rubber seal
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The engine is already with me, so it's too late to have him change it.
Do you think a newbie installing a sleeve is better than a pro installing a regular seal-only?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm guessing it wouldn't affect the balancing he did?
 

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'95 XLT: 5.8/MAF/E4OD/6" lift/4.56's/33x12.5x15
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It's super easy, barely an inconvenience... at least while the engine is out. ;)

I dropped a pic in the other thread with the whole setup I went with on my '95's OEM 351W. Was a "Micro-sleeve" and not a "Speedy" as Joe recommended though.
Those pics have all the parts and part numbers. I still have a few laying around from when I was trying to figure it out and I keep forgetting to list on the site.

1. Victor Reinz: Part# JV1636
2. Fel-Pro: Part# BS40645 / Part#: P96222 (recommended not to use with sleeve but has no "spring retainer" either.)

Maybe that info will just help you get what you need.
Unfortunately, I can't say how it would have lasted over time because I ended up re-pulling and having it long-blocked after 200 miles.
 

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@CZ Eddie
Not trying to hijack your thread - hope you don't mind me asking a question - since I was going to post a new thread on this very subject
@cobrajoe
So I yanked the 302 out of the '96 XL and it's going in the '95. Heads are off, down to short block. New oil pump and pickup going in shortly. Was definitely going to install a new rear main seal while it's out. So what's the general consensus for the 302 Winsor?

Install a new rubber seal.
Install a new teflon seal.
Unbolt the rear main cap and remove old seal, install new and torque cap.
Install a Speedi Sleeve.

What say you?
 

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1996 EB w/5.8 TOO much lift, 44" Mudders & 5:43-5:38's
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@ctandc , I do it to everything I put a rear main seal on. I started using them in boats 30+ years ago; Mercruiser 470's ( 4 cylinder- 170 HP. they were basically half of a 460 Ford; built during the gas crisis) used to have a cam driven water pump that had an oil seal on one side of the timing cover and a water seal on the other side. The seals were notorious for destroying cam shafts by cutting a groove into them. I used to use a Speedy sleeve instead of pulling the cam. The sleeve worked better than a new cam, because it was stainless steel, which was better than steel on the water side.
Ever since then, if I replace a rear main or other hard to get to seal, I use a repair sleeve.
It saves you work down the road, period.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I dropped a pic in the other thread with the whole setup I went with on my '95's OEM 351W. Was a "Micro-sleeve" and not a "Speedy" as Joe recommended though.
Google can't seem to find the thread you are talking about?
Could you link me when you have a chance, please?
 

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did he use a rubber seal or a PTFE seal? if rubber you might replace it with PFTE your yuor very concerned about it.

theres a number of names for them but they do the same job. repair sleeve, wear sleeve, speedi sleeve, redisleeve. kinda varies per brand tho repair sleeve is more a general term for them and speedesleeve is kinda the most used name.

i did a seal and sleeve on my truck with the engine in the truck trans pulled. its not to hard as long as the sleeve goes on straight and even and doesnt crush when tapping it in. my 1 year old stroker crankshaft already had some rust spots messing with the seal so i used a sleeve. they are suppsoe to be made of stainless and smoother than steel where they do not rust and dont wear the seal as fast. might not be a bad idea to use as preventative maintance

 

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I also third the repair sleeve. I’ve used one on both my rear end pinion yoke and TC front shaft yoke.

I coat the ID with some black Permatex, but it’s likely not necessary considering the interference fit. Just a little extra insurance, if you will.

Confirm sleeve axial position so you ensure you drive it to where your seal is fully seating on the sleeve.
 

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'95 XLT: 5.8/MAF/E4OD/6" lift/4.56's/33x12.5x15
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Google can't seem to find the thread you are talking about?
Could you link me when you have a chance, please?
It was that other thread by StephenL that you poked your head into.

Actually, @cobrajoe gave me the good info that convinced me to install the sleeve/seal combo instead of just replacing the seal.

Sleeve I used...


New sleeve and seal installed...


Long thread with lots of great advice when I pulled my 351 to "re-seal": '95 engine pull?
A link to a giant sized version of the picture with the part number details: 1995 Ford Bronco R&R 351W picture | SuperMotors.net
And a copy of the instructions... for detailed, proper, specific info.


I'd be willing to loan out the install tool... but it's not that expensive, so... you're call.
 

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Just trying to add some information to this thread. So like I've mentioned, I've only torn down / put together a few Ford small blocks over the years. So I don't assume that all the "Tricks" I've learned with other engines over the years will work with the 302 I'm currently working on. That being said - I texted an old buddy of mine who is a Ford nut. I lost count of how many Winsor-powered Fox Body Mustangs he's built over the years. He ended up calling me. Like most car guys we rambled about all sorts of crap but a few things he touched on when it comes to rear main seals and late model Winsor engines I think are relevant here.

- He said many times what people think are rear main seal leaks in the 1 piece RMS Winsor engines - AREN'T. He said a combination of issues he's constantly encountered over the years many times combine to point at the RMS.

1. Thread sealer on the flywheel / flexplate bolts. I'm not sure honestly if this applies to the 351, but he pointed out multiple times that the late model 302 flywheel / flexplate bolts WILL LEAK oil if not sealed up with a NON HARDENING thread sealer. Where this oil comes out and where it ends up many times makes people thing it's a rear main seal leak.

2. Not a clean sealing surface on the crank for the RMS. He said it could be combination of things - someone removing the old seal with a screwdriver or pick and causing a tiny imperfection in the crank sealing surface, incorrect seal installation (not flush, bent, mangled).

3. Repair sleeves - he said for an engine like I'm working with (with some miles and doing no machine work before dropping it back in etc) he'd go with a repair sleeve. He said Felpro works fine. He stressed getting the install tool, which can also help correctly install the RMS.

Now the last point he made spurred something in my brain - something I'd seen or read somewhere. Then as I was looking at @CZ Eddie thread where he shows pictures of his new engine - it dawned on me....

* He said if the engine is out - it's well worth the time and effort to remove the rear main cap, clean the mating surfaces, then apply SMALLl amount of RTV to the engine block where the rear main cap meets. He personally likes to spread a thin amount of RTV around the new rear main seal before install. He also installs a repair sleeve most times (like @cobrajoe mentioned - insurance). Torque the rear main cap, then install the seal.

Note this picture of CZEddie's new 351

153649


Hope this helps.

I think, me personally, I'm going to pull the rear main cap, clean, use RTV as recommended, then install a repair sleeve and new seal.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
It looks like some people are removing the flare-out flange at the back of the sleeve but other people are leaving it on?

Here is one guy removing the flare:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Great link, I had struggled to find detailed install directions.
Maybe because I was focusing on YouTube though.

Did you find that we might have clearance issues on our engines? Like it's 1/16" too long or something?
Is that why you removed the flange?
I'd prefer to leave it there, rather than chance scratching the sleeve surface.

Leave the flange intact unless clearance is required. If the flange is to be removed, cut the flange perpendicular to the tear-off groove with a metal shear. Cut only into the tear-off groove, not onto the finished sleeve surface.

After positioning the sleeve, use standard pliers to bend the flange back and forth around its circumference and along the shaft axis (see fig. 4). The flange will break loose along the tear-off groove. Alternately, grasp the flange away from the seal surface and twist it into a coil being careful not to lift the end of the sleeve off the shaft or it will leave a jagged edge.

Flange removal must be done with care to avoid damage to the sleeve outside diameter
 

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same here.
i bought a felpro without a flange. turned out to be the wrong one. then i ran to a local machine shop to get what i needed. they sold me a "micro sleeve" that didn't have the flange, either.

here it is installed.

 
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