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1995 Ford Bronco
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just bought a 1995 Bronco and the rear window does nothing. I was told it worked in January/February.

The window is up so I can't put the tailgate down. It also does not have the tailgate key.

I have pulled the tailgate cover and pushed on the key up and down buttons from the inside and nothing happens, same thing from the switch in the dash.

My idea is to jump the motor from a small battery to see if it does anything.

I am wondering also if this might be related: The in door lamps and the exterior lamp at the rear are always on, I have to remove the fuse currently when not in use to keep from draining my battery. It does not seem to be caused by the door buttons. I am wondering if it thinks the tailgate is open, thus causing my lights to be on and the switches to not respond. I have pressed on the tailgate hard and it is latched.

Thoughts?
 

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1996 Bronco XLT 5.8L
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220 Posts
Might be the safety switch as well. Try the jump on the grey connector in the gate. That doesn't work check the safety switch.

Check this thread out.


Cyberslinger - 1996 XLT Sport 5.8L
 

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the lighting issue is not related, that would be related to the door open switch.

as for the tailgate, you are on the right path, use a car battery on the motor, or jump the safety switch, then do the other, and both. it's not too bad to do, I had to do them a few weeks ago when I got my 86.
 

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So.....I just fixed the same issue on my 95.
Although it could be a few different things, my issue was a dirty connector, center of the tailgate.
165926


I noticed I had power on one side going in, for up, and had power going in from the other side for down. But I didn't have power showing on the output side to the motor. Window would go up and down with a drill battery so I know the motor is good.

So I disconnected the plug and pulled the blades out and cleaned them up. I released the tabs holding the blades in and removed them.


165923




165925


You can see one clean blade and one dirty blade. Both were dirty as heck. Cleaned both blades up, reinsert and plugged back together. And now the window functions properly again.
 

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1995 Ford Bronco
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Okay, still no luck. This is what I did today:

  • I jumped the window motor from the battery and it worked.
  • I bypassed the latch safety switch and neither the dash switch or the key switch did anything at all.
  • I put on new connections on both sides. Still nothing from both switches.

My other power windows work, so it is not the fuse (unless I am mistaken about them being on the same fuse).

Are there any other ideas? I don't want to have to rewire the whole thing.
 

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Are you using a test light? I only seen you changed connectors. You should be testing for power at all points.

The other spot they love to loose power is right where the harness comes out of the drivers side taillight. They usually get pinched and frayed.
 

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Check the harness between the tailgate and body on the driver side. Every issue I've ever had is a broken wire there. One quick test is you can reach the harness from the bottom edge of the tailgate and wiggle it while you turn the key switch-or in your case since you have no key, have a helper use the dash switch.
 
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Yo TChrobo,
Welcome!
166048

. .

All '80-96 t/g wiring runs from the dash switch (F2TZ-14529-A Motorcraft SW7071 ~$25~65) out the firewall along the frame to the rear bumper up to the L taillight and into the t/g. '80-86 have a large round 3-wire connector in the LHR taillight well; those with rear defrost also have a 1-wire connector. All years with rear defrost have a ground ring screwed to the body in the taillight well. I think '87-91 have the large round connector in front of the taillight AND a smaller round 4-wire connector inside the frame at the LHR body mount. '92-96 only have the frame connector.

Normal operation is as follows:

RAISE from the dash switch:
Power flows thru fuse 14 thru the LB/BK wire thru the IP switch UP contacts thru the P/LG wire thru the key switch UP contacts thru the Y/R wire to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds thru the motor's internal CB, out thru the R/Y wire thru the latch switch thru the T/Bk wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the Pk/LB wire thru the IP switch DOWN contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

LOWER from the dash switch:
Power flows thru fuse 14 thru the LB/BK wire thru the IP switch DOWN contacts thru the Pk/LB wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the T/Bk wire thru the latch switch thru the R/Y wire thru the motor's internal CB to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds out thru the Y/R wire thru the key switch UP contacts thru the P/LG wire thru the IP switch UP contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

RAISE from the key switch:
Power flows thru fuse 12 thru the BK/Wh wire thru the key switch thru the UP contacts thru the Y/R wire to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds thru the motor's internal CB out thru the R/Y wire thru the latch switch thru the T/Bk wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the Pk/LB wire thru the IP switch DOWN contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

LOWER from the key switch:
Power flows thru fuse 12 thru the BK/Wh wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the T/Bk wire thru the latch switch thru the R/Y wire thru the motor's internal CB to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds out thru the Y/R wire thru the key switch UP contacts thru the P/LG wire thru the IP switch UP contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

Note that in ALL cases, EVERY switch is used, and the circuit ALWAYS grounds at the same point.

To eliminate/bypass the dash switch, unplug it & install 2 jumpers as described in the "neutral position" within the diagram. By Steve

1995 Ford Bronco Fuse Block Diagram
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Even though motor runs, a typical no movement perpetrator is;
TG Motor Torque Pin (also called Bushing) Info & pic; "...Dorman HELP part number 74410..."
Source: by Sixlitre (Malcolm H, Eddie Bauer) at FSB
Dorman Products - 74410

Pepe' replaced his very recently with ball bearings; "...I just rebuilt the drivers and tailgate motors in my recently purchased '95.
I used 11mm steel bearings to replace OEM plastic bearings and marine grease packed inside.
I used white lithium grease on the window tracks while I was there.
I chose the marine grease in the motors and white lithium on the tracks because of the exposure and because it's what I had on the shelf.

If that doesn't get the motor moving like you're looking for... it will still help things out greatly and it seems that all our rigs need it sooner or later.
The final fix for the tailgate motor speed is adding a relay to the harness at the rear. All the wiring is pulling power and ground from the front switch.
Adding the relay gives a sort of "refresh" to the power going to the rear window motor. plenty of write-ups to read on these..."

Motor Torque Pin (also called Bushing) Repair in an 83 using Fuel Hose
Source: by Michael C (collinsperformance, The Money Monster) at Another rear window question - FSB Forums

"...A cheap, quick, & reliable repair for most Ford window motors is to replace the degraded Delrin bushings in the motor's drive gear with common 1/4" nuts (thread pitch doesn't matter). Grease is only necessary on the central shaft & the outer plastic gear teeth - not in the pockets where the nuts go..."

Motor Replacement; "...Another discovery I made was the lack of threads in the mounting holes of my replacement motor. I suspect most aftermarket replacement motors do not have threads. I made the decision to put threads in the holes rather than fight with nuts (once you've found what fun it is to remove one of these motor, you'll agree). I used a 12-24 N.C. tap to match the threads to the original bolts..."
Source: by Mud E1 (Brent R) at bejara.com via web.archive

Motor Removal in a 95
Source: by Shadofax (TheJuice, The Juice, Mark Z) at 1995 Ford Bronco Rear window/motor pictures, videos, and sounds | SuperMotors.net
➡➡➡⚠Mark cited a Safety Concern; "...the armature is springloaded, so caution is needed when messing with it."⚠⚠⚠ miesk5 Note, armature, aka regulator.

Motor Rebuild wirh Dorman Roller kit and Regulator Removal with pics @ fixing the rear window motor
by digitalbill in a 92
➡Bill wrote, "...BEFORE YOU TAKE OFF THE MOTOR, MAKE SURE THAT THE REGULATOR IS ALL THE WAY IN THE UP POSITION!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!⚠⚠⚠
This is for your safety. You can very easily break your hand if you do not do this.
The motor is held on by three small screws.
Notice that my regulator is NOT in the full up position at this time. Once I pulled the motor out, the regulator “snapped” up with a LOT of force. I got lucky..." .
■□■
ASAP, find out if speed control recall work, if equipped was completed @ Recalls Look-up by VIN (Vehicle Identification Number); or @ Welcome to Ford Owner | Official Ford Owner Site; or ... have VIN ready. While there, see most Ford dealer maintenance/repairs done @ any dealership nation-wide.
"Summary: ON CERTAIN PICKUP TRUCKS, PASSENGER VEHICLES, SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES, AND MOTOR HOMES CHASSIS, THE SPEED CONTROL DEACTIVATION SWITCH MAY, UNDER CERTAIN CONDITIONS, LEAK INTERNALLY AND THEN OVERHEAT, SMOKE, OR BURN. THIS COULD RESULT IN AN UNDERHOOD FIRE."
See this guide by jowens1126 to confirm recall status @ 93 & 94-96 Cruise Control Recalls Repair
Note that the 93 recall is different than 94-96.

1995 Bronco Dealer Brochure @ 1995 Ford Bronco

1995 Bronco Drivetrain, Powertrain Service Manual - Google Drive
&
1995 Bronco Chassis, Service Manual - Google Drive
To switch between folder list & grid views, click the button to the right of the "DOWNLOAD ALL" button in the upper right corner of the window) by HawkDriver

For any Bronco questions or to chat about it's planned modifications or build, it's better to post each seperately in Noobie Bronco Tech Questions. Flame free zone. This will get more attention and you can build up your post count to get into other sections such as Bronco and Ford Parts/Accessories (75 non-padded posts required to participate, due to scammers who preyed on our members).
➡I'll move this thread to Noobie section for you.

To save you time and for better responses, please fill out your Bronco info with location, year, engine size, transmission type, transfer case type (manual or electric shift), locking hub type (automatic or manual) info & major mods such as a Lift, etc. .
Bronco info is now able to be put under your user name.
Click your profile button in the top right and go to account settings.


On that first page, named Account Details, scroll down to "Vehicle Info" and type in up to 100 characters.

Now you can simply enter your information in the text editor and click save.

Our Forum FAQs includes for example, How to Use Search and more tips!

➡➡➡ Baba Looey's Favorite FSB Links (lots and lots of tech links)
... Includes such as, How do I fix my back window?

Take time to participate in our current Full-Size of the Quarter & later in the year, Full-Size of the Year Contest @ Voting
You will get ideas by those competing. Also see the prizes. They are awesome as compared to other sites' "contests"!
Al
 

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once you get it figured out, there is a relay mod you can do, it gets the motor power without having to go through 900 different switches, each one sapping alittle power. That way your window goes up and down with gusto!
 

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1986 Bronco Eddie Bauer 5.0 bone stock
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Not sure about 95 but on my 86 there is a connector behind the drivers tail light, you can check to see if you are getting power there, also check your wires integrity in the corner on the left side, make sure they arent broken, as is common on wires that have to move a lot. Mine arent in half yet, but are definitely cracked. Also i would "jump" my safety switch by manually closing the drivers latch with my hand (move the little catches to the closed position) and sticking a big bolt i had between them to complete the ground. All the wires inside my tailgate are just junk at this point, even the defroster wires have broken off right at the window and are just flopping inside, and my window motor wires look like they have been through a lawn mower, the PO (which was the original owner) mustve had some real fun with the back window. I have just decided to re-wire the entire tailgate and use silicone jacketed wire for added flexibility.
Anyway, best of luck.
 

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1995 Ford Bronco
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thank you all so much for you help. I finally got it working properly. It was a four pin connection near the bottom of the tailgate and the center of the body. It has white build up, like lotion. Once it was cleaned it had power. After I aligned the tailgate the window now goes up and down with ease.
 
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