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Discussion Starter #1
so i went to pickup my headers i ordered for the bronco, put them in the back, rolled up teh rear window and left the ****** interior light on all night. no big deal, jumpstart right?

everyhting is great, but now the rear window isnt working, either switch. so i have 2 big problems.

1. the headers are long tube, and in the box i dont think theyre coming out the front doors...

2. what the hell happened to my window? i checked all the fuses in the driverside dash, and i dont know whatelese to do. the motor was strong before this, so i dont think the power window motor went out. must have something to do with the jumpstart, or the light killing the battery. truck runs great and all.... PLEASE HELP! i want my headers, and i need my truck space!

1992 custom (xl model) only power anything is the rear window... go figure...

5.8L e4od, auto trans, manual 4x4, please, anyone ever delt with this!??! if this is in the threads list, i cant find it.. :whiteflag
 

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Forward Some Money
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1)maybe the battery isnt charged up enough to power down.

2) Perhaps the t/g wasnt fully latched but was closed enough to roll it up. Then when you drove home it opend enough to screw the safety.

--Try pushing in HARD on the left (drivers) side upper corner as you try to roll it down with the t/g key switch


If that doesnt work.....have a glass company remove the windshield so you can get your headers out
 

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i gave mine a swift kick on the driver side rear and the window started working again ?? maybe it just isnt closed enought to come back down ??
 

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Sometimes when mine stops working, I just kick it a few times like said above and it starts working again.

You need to bypass that stupid tailgate sensor that won't let you roll the window up and down when it's not fully latched. It's not hard to do at all. Luckily the previous owner of my truck did it for me though. Not sure if that's your problem, but put it on your to-do list.
 

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i aggree i have to do this all the time. have a question for the more experianced people, my buddie took the safety off and rolled up the window when the tailgate wasnt latched all the way and it shattered while he was drivn? is that cause it wasnt latched or whyd that happen?
 

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i aggree i have to do this all the time. have a question for the more experianced people, my buddie took the safety off and rolled up the window when the tailgate wasnt latched all the way and it shattered while he was drivn? is that cause it wasnt latched or whyd that happen?
While not as experieced as many....my vote would be on it binding and breaking the glass while driving. The safety is there for a reason. Just like the one that keeps the t/g from opening when the glass isnt all the way down.
 

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While not as experieced as many....my vote would be on it binding and breaking the glass while driving. The safety is there for a reason. Just like the one that keeps the t/g from opening when the glass isnt all the way down.
:box0715: Nailed it on the button... When the T/G can move and shake (not latched all the way) so can the glass... BOOM hit a bump and there goes the glass. Same with the lowering of the T/G, if the glass is sticking out even an inch and you jump up on to the tail gate... Crack... your done..
 

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Discussion Starter #9
success!

the latch came loose somehow.. i pushed as hard as i could without causing body damage, and could not get it to roll down. i crawled in the front, moved all my stuff around so i could get to the tailgate inside, and took off the screws holding on the panel.


in the middle, inside the tailgate shell, the wires to the motor were held on by a plasic rivet. poped the rivet out, and a yellow/red and a red wire were in the plastic harness. grabbed my jumper cables, carefully took them to the back, and with 2 speaker size wires connected to the jumper cables, i put (+) to the yellow and (-) to the red.

window rolled down, and i put it back together. any questions? i hope this helps someone elese fix their problem.

and as far as by-passing the safety switch, i think it would be easier to do this again rather than replace a broken window.

thanks for the input FSB. how do i get FSB window stickers?
 

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I had to do the same kind of thing with a long wire and my power inverter 12V outlet wires.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
giggity.
 

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Take it from me it wont take much to break that window if its not in properly, one reason I need a new window also dont jump it. Also I think your issue might be with the switch they can be real b*tchs at times.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
beer and gasoline.
 

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Need to bypass the tailgate safety??

My rear window works fine when it has power. From all the stuff I have read it appears to be coming down to bypassing the safety switch (for now).

1) window is in the down position, do I need to move it to find this switch? How does one manually move the glass?

2) where is this safety switch? (95 EB)

3) do tailgate latches go bad? I have ordered new weather strip and side runs and anew upper run. Might add this to the list of replacement parts?

My plan is to seriously overhaul the tailgate on a nice sunny day when I have everything I need and the #*[email protected] patience to do it all right. But for now I just need to be able to get my window up and down.

Many thanks, Dikthod
 

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It's going to be hard for me to pin it down since I'm not there to pysically touch it, but the first thing I would do it check ALL of your fuses and ALL of your relays. I emphysize all because that way you can get that out of the way. 99% of stuff that goes out is an easy fix. Use a test light on both sides of the fuses.

If all goes well I would then test the switch leads on both the dash and the tail gate. If I'm not mistaken, there should be 3 leads, one is a ground, one is window going up, and the other is window going down. The switch in the dash will be easyer, but the one in the tailgate will require a helper. You will have to remove the access panel to get in there, and it may be a tight fit.

If you don't have power to the switch, you could have a show in the wireing, or the switch is bad and get a new one. If it's the wire, happy hunting.

If power is going through the switch like it should then check the motor at the leeds. If you have power at the motor leeds but nothing is hapening, the motor is toast, and replace accordingly. If the new motor still won't work after a correct installation, again, happy hunting betwen the motor and both switches.

This is what I can tell you off the top f my head, but I strongly urge you to get both a haynes and chilton's book for your rig, as one book will go a little more in depth then the other depending on the subject. In the mean time you can also do a search for electrical skematics, I know some one has posted them before.
If you can't get them then in the mean time you can search for the electrical skematics, I'm sure that someone has posted them here already.
 

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Welp, this is where I'm at. I found a corroded wire at a junction behind the bumper. Did my best to clean it up and splice it, didn't seem to work. Tomorrow I intend to order the new harness group so all I have to do is plug n play. While I'm at it I will be replacing both side guides, top guide, new window, window motor and safety switch. I figger this is going to be about a $500. overhaul but my thought is that while I'm in it might as well replace the old FU parts that are soon to fail. I ONLY WANT TO HAVE TO DO THIS ONCE.

Will plan to do a pictorial write up also.

-Dikthod
 

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Welp, this is where I'm at. I found a corroded wire at a junction behind the bumper. Did my best to clean it up and splice it, didn't seem to work. Tomorrow I intend to order the new harness group so all I have to do is plug n play. While I'm at it I will be replacing both side guides, top guide, new window, window motor and safety switch. I figger this is going to be about a $500. overhaul but my thought is that while I'm in it might as well replace the old FU parts that are soon to fail. I ONLY WANT TO HAVE TO DO THIS ONCE.

Will plan to do a pictorial write up also.

-Dikthod

I suggest not ordering all of the above parts. I'd go through the system using the writeups in this site and trouble shoot components until the problem is found. You can save a lot of money and perhaps time with a test light and a 12 volt power source.
 
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