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Hey guys, I'm getting ready to replace the rotted areas on my rear quarters, My question to those of you who have already done this is;

When I replace the Wheel arches, Is it necessary to replace the inner wheel housing or can I just remove it and leave it off?? what purpose does it serve? Are there any consequences to not having it??

Also, if I do need them does anyone know if there is a company that produces them in plastic rather than metal?

insight is always appreciated!

Thanks,
Josh
 

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I just did mine and it was a pain in the ass. If the rot isnt that bad I would only cut out a little above the bad stuff on the flare and dont go above the flare, just cut what you need off the patch panel. Also, coat the inner part of the new panel and the old with some tough paint or durabak type stuff to seal it. If you have enough of the inner well left, just trim off where it attches to the outer fender and the rust and treat it, this way it will prevent water and crap from getting up in there and won't block the inside so whatever crap gets in there will just flow out. You don't need it for support. And also keep the plastic well covers in there too.

When I did mine I sprayed and brushed rust preventive stuff all up on the inside of the 1/4 and the bed too. The reason why I would avoid using the whole patch panel is that you need to crimp the body panel so the patch panel is flat, but it still winds up sticking out a little here and there then you will need to use bondo and unless you put in alot of time, it may come out wavy. That's why I suggest cutting out as little of the body as possible.
 

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I just replaced mine too.....Pain in the Butt!!! I ordered up patch panels and inner wheel houses from JBG. I replaced my wheel houses because they were rusted up pretty good too.....AND MINE IS A 96! Take Yomrd's advice and don't cut more of the original off than needed. I kinda messed mine up with the crimping tool and had to pay the body shop a little extra to fix the waves in the quarters. However, i did use 3m panel bond to bond the wheel houses to the bottom of the cab and the inside of the quarter. Reason for this was no heating of the area that can't be rust treated. Good Luck! I'll post a finished pic, i'm picking her up from the body shop sat morning...went back with all black single stage, should look sweet
 

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Hey guys, I'm getting ready to replace the rotted areas on my rear quarters, My question to those of you who have already done this is;

When I replace the Wheel arches, Is it necessary to replace the inner wheel housing or can I just remove it and leave it off?? what purpose does it serve? Are there any consequences to not having it??

Also, if I do need them does anyone know if there is a company that produces them in plastic rather than metal?

insight is always appreciated!

Thanks,
Josh

Does your state use road salt ?

If so, put it all back. Are you glueing or welding ?

Sixlitre
 

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I'm about to do mine as soon as I pick a new gas bottle for my mig
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=114562
I'll take tons of pictures and maybe do a write up

Pat
Pat

Think about glueing your rear quarters, for a couple of reasons.

First you get a 3500 psi hold to a weld's 1200 psi hold

Second you can pre-paint and pre-undercoat the quarters before you even put them on, inside and out (on the paint;)).



Lastly bodyshops have been using this stuff, by preference, for 20 years now, must be a reason.

Sixlitre
 

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I did think about glue, but I'm only doing patches to very minimal rust. Also I want to get some more practice in before I start in on the bodywork on my Trans Am which will need a lot of welding (damn New England). So weld it is for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So those inner wheel houses are neccesary. I'm thinking with my limited welding/bodywork experience, I'd be better off to bring it to the body shop and get it done right. I have to replace from the back of the door to the wheel well and the usual top of the wheel well and as you guys are saying the inner wheel houses too! so i'll be heasin to the body shop tommorw morning for a quote.

Plandry - where abouts are you located? I'm from right on the Mass/RI line. (South Attleboro)

Also I'm thinking about rhino-lining the bottom stripe on my truck, what do you guys think? Has anyone else done this??
 

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new guy......just puttin in my two cents.......I also am about to replace the inner wheelhouses and quarters on my beater. I am using aftermarket cheaters.......which will be glued in place to tabs pre installed in the cut out section of the quarter for a flush fit. It eliminates a lot of grinding and welding,which ulimately leads to rusty quarters again in a few years.The glue seals the metal and prevents water from seeping in. We use this technique in the bodyshop on a daily basis.Good luck with your projects.......mine is still along way from being even road worthy!
 

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So those inner wheel houses are neccesary. I'm thinking with my limited welding/bodywork experience, I'd be better off to bring it to the body shop and get it done right. I have to replace from the back of the door to the wheel well and the usual top of the wheel well and as you guys are saying the inner wheel houses too! so i'll be heasin to the body shop tommorw morning for a quote.

Plandry - where abouts are you located? I'm from right on the Mass/RI line. (South Attleboro)

Also I'm thinking about rhino-lining the bottom stripe on my truck, what do you guys think? Has anyone else done this??
Let us in on the quote when you get back

That's what spurred me on to doing them myself, was the horrendous quote :shocked

I'd done the fenders, whole door shells, tailgate and under grill piece first. Pre-painted and pre undercoated them and wasn't looking forward to the rear quarters and then.........I got the quote:shocked

I bought the quarters for $222 and $262 respectively and the glue wasn't $50.00. By pre-painting and pre-undercoating them, I was done as soon as the glue dried:chili:

Sixlitre
 

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Hey Six, Ive been thinking about doing the quarters/fenderwells on my 90 one of these days, but my quarters are BAD. I assume if you guys actually saw them you would probably just tell me to get another bronco with less rust, lol. Anyway, I was wondering if you had any "before" pics of your quarters so I could see how bad the rust was. The rust on mine is really bad right by the doors, too, and I am curious how hard its going to be to clean up all the rust in that area I was also wondering if you did your own paint work or if you had it done for you. Sorry for the thread jack
 

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Hey Six, Ive been thinking about doing the quarters/fenderwells on my 90 one of these days, but my quarters are BAD. I assume if you guys actually saw them you would probably just tell me to get another bronco with less rust, lol. Anyway, I was wondering if you had any "before" pics of your quarters so I could see how bad the rust was. The rust on mine is really bad right by the doors, too, and I am curious how hard its going to be to clean up all the rust in that area I was also wondering if you did your own paint work or if you had it done for you. Sorry for the thread jack
Sure Mr.Q

peruse my rear quarter section here;

http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/4970/19605

52 pics and over 20,000 hits

Mine were rough underneath, but solid, even though nearly every square inch has surface rust or worse;





Check carefully around where the tailgate hinges bolt on;



I had to do this repair;

http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/4970/20293

which btw the was really easy to fab up and easier still for my welder to button weld in for me.





Ain't pretty, but it's plenty strong and who the heck sees inside the tailgate hinge area anyway ?



Sixlitre

BTW

Canadian Tire can get you rear quarters pretty cheap, from the Cross Canada catalog kept under the counter. 4 years ago I paid $222.00 and $262.00 respectively per side. My buddy's 4-Rusters tailgate shell, bare, was $3200.00 at Toyota !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Grab your ankle Cyrus, cause' here comes da pain ! (of owning an import)
 

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Put it this way, it took Ford MANY years to figure out that they don't need inner wheel houses because they trap dirt and moisture. From what I've seen the new truck beds don't have inners and have a couple of braces on the inside.

If you take the inners out you can spray and coat the inside easily. If you want to put them back in, they will rust out again, probably in 10 years-haha.

Since I don't think mine will last 10 years and isn't a show truck to say the least, I just left them off. Keep in mind, unless you have mad bondo skills either just cut part of the flare or do the whole 1/4.

A little tip on using the epoxy, use a bead on the patch panel and the truck, smooth it out to cover the bare edges, and then put a final small bead on the truck. If you use too much and don't squeeze it flat ALL around, the panel will stick out.

NOTE: You can't clamp the patch panel on to the truck with the inner panel in place so you will have to either tac weld or screw it in place. Then grind off the screws and fill the holes with more epoxy later. Epoxy runs about 30 bucks, the applicator gun is about 80 (unless you can borrow one) and get extra mixing tips!
 

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Plandry, Do you rent your garages in Walpole? I live in Quincy and am moving to Walpole. I need to rent some garage space. I have 2 broncos and a vette that need a home as well as some work equipment. If you have or know of anything let me know. We should hook up and check out each others rigs and or go wheeling. PM or email me. Thanks.
Sorry for the off topic thread jack!
 

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When I replaced my wheel well opening I cut off the inner fenders and there was no noticeable flex in the panel. I have since redone my well wheels and inner fenders - because water was slinging off the tires and coming up over the lip of the inner panel where the hardtop attaches, getting everything wet inside.
 

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as a bodyman when i use glue to install a panel I use Cleco pins.then I only have a small hole to weld shut, and it isnt a problem. I still prefer to weld on my sheet metal though, but thats what I get for just restoring cars for the past 5 years.
 

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When I replaced my wheel well opening I cut off the inner fenders and there was no noticeable flex in the panel. I have since redone my well wheels and inner fenders - because water was slinging off the tires and coming up over the lip of the inner panel where the hardtop attaches, getting everything wet inside.
Good point. I just cut the rusted lip of the inner well off so it would protect some.
 

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Thanks Six. Ive looked through your write up a few times. It just takes so damn long with dial up, lol. Good to know that I only have to go to Canadian tire to get my quarters. I still think your old quarters were in pretty awesome shape compared to mine. I doubt I will ever actually get around to fixing my quarters. I plan to fix my quarters just like I plan to win the lottery and sleep with some hot identical twins, lol
 
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