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Discussion Starter #1
Can someone guide me on how to check this rear tailgate window switch with a multimeter? I don’t want to buy a new one if this is working.Thanks!



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Discussion Starter #4
Hey thanks Miesk. I have to get better reading these diagrams. Trying to fiqure out which fuse is this on the fuse box. I’m assuming at the terminals of the switch it should read 12v?





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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I was reading the diagram from Miesk and noticed this. See pic. Is this fuse like on the starter relay? I also checked all the fuses at the fuse box-all good. And.....there’s that bulb that sits behind the headlamp and washer switches. There’s no power to that wire too.




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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks again Miesk. I’m going to the garage to check this #2 3amp fuse. I was typing this up as I received your reply....

Ok....down in the garage trying to get these electrical gremlins cleared up. I fixed the high/low beam issue. Was just a faulty dimmer switch on the floor. I’m down to my last two issues. That little bulb that lights up washer/lights on the dash knobs. The wire is a blue/red stripe and a black ground. (See pic). It’s hard for me to follow it- bad neck and arthritis issues. I get no 12v power with a multimeter. Anyone know where the heck it goes? Maybe related to the rear tailgate window switch?





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Discussion Starter #8
I’m getting close....I have no power getting to the these two fuse ports on the fuse box. (Pic). The fuses are fine and even replaced them to test but absolutely no 12v going to them. logical next step? I’m learning as I go....




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Discussion Starter #9
That #2 fuse port is the one I need to get straightened out. This fuse port controls the Instrument cluster and panel lights, ash tray lights, AC lamp, W/S wiper illumination.

The larger #3 fuse is for AC Heater/ defroster which is the stuff I removed from the Bronco-No AC at all.....

So the fact that there is no power going to this #2 fuse port. Where do I look next? Sorry for all the posting. I’m thinking out loud here....



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Discussion Starter #10
Still going at it. It’s a battle but I won’t give up.
Behind the Radio and AC/ heater control there’s the green connector with that Blue/Red stripe wire and a black wire to a fuse holder. The black wire has power and connects to the radio. That damn blue and red stripe wire has no power. This is the same wire that goes to that illumination bulb and also to the AC heater controls. What is this damn wire. Where does it originate from?



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Discussion Starter #12
Not at all thanks. My headlights work, high and low beam. With the headlights on I get no 12V’s to that illumination bulb or that illumination bulb at the ac heater controls. I dont get it because everything else works....


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Discussion Starter #13
I finally found someone having the exact same problem. The fix was to install a new headlight switch which I don't feel like doing right now. It all starts with the headlight switch, supplies power to the fuse panel, then out to all dash illumination bulbs. Here's the link ...
 

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1979 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400m engine, C6 trans, D44 front with Dick Cepek manual locking hubs
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blue/red wires are mostly interior lights, this is what I learned at least fixing all my cab lights.

the green connector is an open end on my car, but I learned it should be power for Radio, as I have no radio installed, this makes sense, somehow, even I would guess a radio needs at least 3 cables:

power +12v
pulse to start
ground
(electrical antenna)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Finally got this fixed. It was the headlight light switch. I received some incredible support from Paul at ....

Walked me through step by step troubleshooting my problem. The man has incredible Bronco tech knowledge. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well I got the new rear window dash switch from JBG. Still not working. Tailgate rear key switch works fine. Anyone know how to bypass the relay to see if its this relay hanging down from under the dash.

160988
 

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1979 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400m engine, C6 trans, D44 front with Dick Cepek manual locking hubs
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This circuit has a fuse - take it out, and put back in, the relay should click when putting fuse back in.
At least mine does it and it’s working
 

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Discussion Starter #19
So I don’t hear a clicking sound. I did a continuity check with my multimeter and got nothing out of the three terminals. All combinations of contacts.
Does this indicate a bad relay?


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Driving Stuff Henry Built
-90 xlt, 351w, e4od, man 1356, 3.55, sag, warn hubs, 35s. -73, 400, np435, d20j twin, 35s
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3 terminals? Normally a relay uses 4 as a minimum. I know nothing about the specifics of that relay, but I think usually you have at a minimum:
  • Hot to the relay
  • Switched load from the relay
  • Signal to the relay
  • Ground
Seeing it hanging there, I wonder if it gets its ground thru its mounting strap. You might try connecting the mount to ground & see if anything changes.

I know that's the case with a solenoid (starter relay). Those won't work at all unless mount is connected to ground.
 
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