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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is my first attempt at a write-up.

After jacking up truck, removing the wheel, and teh brake drum this is what you have.

Notice the wet spot to the left (rear) of the wheel cylinder

Remove the brake shoes

From the back of the backing plate disconect the brake line then remove the two bolts that hold the cylinder on

Front of the backing plate after removal

The old cylinder

The old and new cylinders side by side. Hard to believe that old one is only two years old. The new cylinder doesn't come with plungers so the old ones will be cleaned and re-used

Install is the reverse of removal. Unfortunately it started to rain and since rain and cameras don't mix I have no pictures of the actual install. One word of warning, when installing the adjusting lever spring with needle-nose pliers keep your face out of the way. When the pliers slip it really hurts when you wallop yourself in the face with em :banghead :banghead
 

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Good pics :twotu:

I'd also add to spend some time with a toothbrush and some lacquer thinner and/or brake cleaner cleaning up around the fitting and back side of the cylinder before disassembly. That'll help keep crap out of the new cylinder when you put it back together.
 

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I recently did the same job and I can tell you that investing in a brake spring tool for $6.00 can make life easier when you do this job not to mention the time you save not struggling with thoses nasty springs. Autozone CA had really nice rear cylinders made in Italy? for ($9.99) a piece. Now my Bronco stops very nicely.! Buy a tool ~
 

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i'd just buy the damn tool for the return springs at 6 bucks, much easier and safer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The really scary thing is I have that tool and have never been able to use it on that last spring, the one that connects the adjuster lever to the front pad :brownbag Works great for removing and installing the top springs tho. In fact you can see it on the right in the last picture above.
 

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I know this is an old thread but gonna do this in a few days. How do you install the plungers into the new cylinder? Never worked on brakes before. Thanks
 

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And buy some speedbleeders from summit while you're doing it. Another 10 bucks, and worth every penny.
 

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If you're too cleaver for your own good you can do this job without removing the brake shoes or any of the springs.

You can also bleed the cylinders by pushing in the plungers. Though I don't guarantee the results or effectives.
 

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Haynes says to install a "brake cylinder clamp" to relieve pressure on the brake system before removing any springs. Is there another way and does this tool even exist? Its not in any brake repair kits or at any parts stores.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I've never heard of one of those myself. I imagine you could pssibly use a piece of rope or maybe a belt or cargo strap wrapped around the shoes to attempt this. The closest thing I can think of along those lines would be a piece of wire bent into a "U" to hold the plungers in, never had any luck with that tho.
 

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FL78Bronco said:
Haynes says to install a "brake cylinder clamp" to relieve pressure on the brake system before removing any springs. Is there another way and does this tool even exist? Its not in any brake repair kits or at any parts stores.
Have never used one of those.
Have never seen one of those.
Have never heard of one of those.
What page is it on?

Why would there be any pressure to relieve unless someone pushing on the brake pedal? If there is any significant pressure wouldn't the shoes be engaged with the drum, making it next to impossible to remove the drum?
 

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In my Haynes it is in Chapter 9, section 2(drum brakes, light duty)- paragraph 4. Just for reference. This is for a 78 bronco.
Thanks
 

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sewiv said:
http://www.tpub.com/content/construction/14273/css/14273_271.htm

It looks like it's to keep the cylinder from popping out if someone steps on the brake with the drum off.
Certainly makes more sense than trying to relieve pressure. Though I doubt that little thing would prevent brake pedal depression from pushing out the cylinder plungers. I’m thinking maybe to keep the internal spring and gravity bleed from slowly pushing them out. Though I’ve never known that to be a problem as there’s usually not enough force to overcome the rubber boots.
 
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