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Ford Bronco '87 XLT
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi! This is my first post on this forum, I started renovating/restoring an old Bronco XLT 1987 Automatic 5L about a week ago and have spent a lot of time replacing brakes and stuff. I've finished replacing and "fixing" the front disc brakes. I got the motor running before I could do the rear brakes/ wheels and it actually worked driving a round a short bit, I just took it out of the garage and turned around to get more space to work on the rear brakes. When trying to remove the left back wheel for a while now by spraying it and lubing it and hitting it and everything i really can't seem to get the wheel off, feels like i've tried everything and im gettin really tired of it! So i decided to put all the bolts back and try to drive it a bit to see if it would loosen up. While starting it and putting it in drive i could'nt move without at least one of the rear wheels locked and dragging along the floor. (Not sure if this applies to both rear wheels becasue of limited space I can't really see. So the I tried to put it in reverse just by curiosity and it worked perfectly fien no trouble at all reversing, the putting it in drive again it's locked up again? So in conclusion I need help how to get a stuck tire/wheel off and why it's locking up and only when moving forward? I was suspecting that it's the parking brake but from what I can see it's not even working and shouldn't be engaged. Btw, no of my brakes are currently working so I guess that could be a part of the problem too. I really dont know where to staert and need some help to get started again. :)

Thank you in advance!
//Albin
Sweden
 

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No expert here; but I had the parking brake get stuck on my Bronco II when I was a kid and had the same issue. It wouldn't go forward but I could drive in reverse no problem. I had put the brake on at a light on a hill while I got something from the back seat; ended up having to drive in reverse for a mile down the road to get to a parking lot.
 

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Frozen parking brake cables would be the first place I would look also. From my experience they always hold better in forward than reverse.
 

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how would i fix the issue?
IF it is the parking brake cable(s), I would cut it/them near where they go into the brake drum and hope that releases the brake so you can get the drum off so you can work on it. Then replace the parking brake cable(s)
 

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1984, 300 L6, smogless, manual 3speed with overdrive.
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To get the tire off your going to need to get a BAH (big azz hammer) I’m talking sledgehammer or splitting maul something with weight.. cut a 4X6 block to sit on the ground and be high enough to sit against the rim.... with it jacked up put the block on the rim and give it a good smack, turn it 1/4 and hit it again.... a good smack not like your kissing your sister but wail on that sucker. Now your brake drum should have a lip on it and you might have “pulled” the lip up onto the shoes already trying to pull the tire ... to test that theory put a block on the rim face and smack it inward hard and see if it frees up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
IF it is the parking brake cable(s), I would cut it/them near where they go into the brake drum and hope that releases the brake so you can get the drum off so you can work on it. Then replace the parking brake cable(s)
Oh okay and if it's the parking brake where does it usually get stuck or break if i want to repair it before breaking it? Right now the parking brake pedal doesn't lock or anything but the cable stretches when pushing it, when not pushed it's just hanging. So maybe cutting the wire wouldn't help? Maybe it's stuck somewhere in the drumbrakes instead?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
To get the tire off your going to need to get a BAH (big azz hammer) I’m talking sledgehammer or splitting maul something with weight.. cut a 4X6 block to sit on the ground and be high enough to sit against the rim.... with it jacked up put the block on the rim and give it a good smack, turn it 1/4 and hit it again.... a good smack not like your kissing your sister but wail on that sucker. Now your brake drum should have a lip on it and you might have “pulled” the lip up onto the shoes already trying to pull the tire ... to test that theory put a block on the rim face and smack it inward hard and see if it frees up.
I've given it some pretty good smacks but can't really get any power because the car is currently in a really limited space and i don't want to tow it in it's current condition risking to break something. Is there any other tricks that doesn't requires as much power and space? :/
 

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Oh okay and if it's the parking brake where does it usually get stuck or break if i want to repair it before breaking it? Right now the parking brake pedal doesn't lock or anything but the cable stretches when pushing it, when not pushed it's just hanging. So maybe cutting the wire wouldn't help? Maybe it's stuck somewhere in the drumbrakes instead?
There's 1 cable that runs from the pedal to under the rear of the driver's door. It ends there at a bracket where 2 cables attach and run to each of the rear drums. One or both of those cables may be frozen or rusted so when you pushed down on the parking brake you were able to apply enough pressure to lock the brakes, but when you release the parking brake, the springs in the drum aren't strong enough to overcome the frozen cable, so the brakes won't release. That's why I suggested cutting the cable near where it enters the brake drum and see if the brakes release. But like I said before, IF the parking brakes are the problem. Could also be the wheel cylinder, etc. I don't have history on the vehicle, so it's hard to diagnose. You really have to dig into it to find out.
 

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I've given it some pretty good smacks but can't really get any power because the car is currently in a really limited space and i don't want to tow it in it's current condition risking to break something. Is there any other tricks that doesn't requires as much power and space? :/
Please don't cut anything until you get the tire and drum off. Cutting the cable won't make it any easier to remove tire.
Look at video below and see if it helps.
 

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Meant to check mine out to diagnose but it's been pouring rain like its the end of times with tornado warnings so haven't had any lick


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1984, 300 L6, smogless, manual 3speed with overdrive.
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I've given it some pretty good smacks but can't really get any power because the car is currently in a really limited space and i don't want to tow it in it's current condition risking to break something. Is there any other tricks that doesn't requires as much power and space? :/
Your hitting it from the inside, lay under the truck with it solidly on a jack stand/blocks and the jack under the frame your swinging from the inside. Not sure of your lift or tire size but an import scissor jack between the frame and a block on the wheel, a bottle jack would work also but requires an assistant.
 

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'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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Young man squashed trying to remove tire on old Bronco project was never seen or heard from on FSB again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Okay so i finally got the tire off! Hitting the wheel with one big ass hammer wasn't enough so i brought a friend and we managed to get it off when hitting it on both sides simultaneously! Now to the next problem, I cant't get the brake drum off! It's movin a little bnack and forth but it just won't slide off. I tried getting it looses using the Hayes manual for repairs without luck. I tried to spin the "adjustor wheel" inside the drum on the back with no luck. I guess it's the parking brake that is engaged and won't let me take the wheel of or should I be able to take the drum of even without disengaging the parking brake?
 

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Okay so i finally got the tire off! Hitting the wheel with one big ass hammer wasn't enough so i brought a friend and we managed to get it off when hitting it on both sides simultaneously! Now to the next problem, I cant't get the brake drum off! It's movin a little bnack and forth but it just won't slide off. I tried getting it looses using the Hayes manual for repairs without luck. I tried to spin the "adjustor wheel" inside the drum on the back with no luck. I guess it's the parking brake that is engaged and won't let me take the wheel of or should I be able to take the drum of even without disengaging the parking brake?
So i did mine yesterday (had same issue as you). Its hard to remove because the shoe is pressed against the drum. What I did was bang around the outer rim with a hammer to loosen up the rest and stuff. Then I took a metal bar, placed it on the inside of the drum near the axle and banged on it until it pushed the drum off


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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
So i did mine yesterday (had same issue as you). Its hard to remove because the shoe is pressed against the drum. What I did was bang around the outer rim with a hammer to loosen up the rest and stuff. Then I took a metal bar, placed it on the inside of the drum near the axle and banged on it until it pushed the drum off


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Did you also have the problem with a stuck parking brake or was yours working prpoerly because I think that it's locking the drum on mine. I tried to hit it a couple of times in front and on the sides, that ended up breaking some of the rim with no sucess. Where on the inside did you hit? Just on the backside in general or some special point? I was thinking about maybe putting a screwdriver through the "adjustor" hole and hit it.
 

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Did you also have the problem with a stuck parking brake or was yours working prpoerly because I think that it's locking the drum on mine. I tried to hit it a couple of times in front and on the sides, that ended up breaking some of the rim with no sucess. Where on the inside did you hit? Just on the backside in general or some special point? I was thinking about maybe putting a screwdriver through the "adjustor" hole and hit it.
My parking brake was also stuck. Dont hit the metal back plate, you'll see on the back that the drum only goes around to the metal back plate. Hit on the drum not the plate


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1984, 300 L6, smogless, manual 3speed with overdrive.
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Look at your drum it might have threaded holes in the face, if it does put long screws in and tighten them evenly. Now you need two screw drivers to loosen the brake adjuster barrel. You have to push the catch towards the outside of the truck from behind and use a flat tip to roll the turn dial. I can’t remember which way to turn it off hand but before releasing the catch turn it, it will click when it is tightening.... so turn it the opposite way while holding the catch back. I’ll try to dig up a picture but I’m slow as molasses. Where’s @miesk5 the diagram king?
 

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1565654C-2BF1-4B97-820D-646186D27832.png
CF727110-FC8D-49A0-A44E-A9A5F6E92931.jpeg

so looking at the bottom photo you push the tab on the left side from behind so it let’s go of the start wheel on the adjuster....place your flat tip on the bottom of the hole with its blade against the star wheel and the handl up as high as you have clearance for and rotate the inside of the star dial upwards.... you will need to do this a bunch of times so your drums “grove” will clear the pads. Once it’s off run a fingernail up the brake surface and you’ll feel the lip at the outside edge if it’s not visible. Hope I “splained” that right.
 
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