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1995 Ford Bronco Eddie Bauer
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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys! New to the website, just bought my first Bronco. 95 Eddie Bauer 5.8 351w. The rear window didn’t work when I bought it and I was under the impression that it was bad wiring. Recently found out that whole motor is bad and seal is bad so looking for the cheapest most dependable fix. Wondering about converting the automatic window to a manual window. Anybody ever done this or heard of this? Looking for any help. Thanks!
 

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Yo Bhand_eddieB95,
WELCOME!

So far no. Closest anyone has gotten is Installation from an F Series in a 79
Source: by MUDDOG7375 at FSB

I thought he was adding a top hinged plexiglass piece in it, but...

See 80-96 Tailgate Tech with many pictures at 1983 Ford Bronco Tailgate Tech pictures, videos, and sounds | SuperMotors.net
Includes such as;
156168


See more vg troubleshooting plus weatherstrip installation, lubrication, etc,
Typical motor failure can be repaired with cheap parts. Such as

◇•□
ASAP, find out if speed control, if equipped, recall work completed by dealership. Call local dealer or register and view status @ Welcome to Ford Owner | Official Ford Owner Site; or @ Recalls Look-up by VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) ... have VIN ready.
"Summary: ON CERTAIN PICKUP TRUCKS, PASSENGER VEHICLES, SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES, AND MOTOR HOMES CHASSIS, THE SPEED CONTROL DEACTIVATION SWITCH MAY, UNDER CERTAIN CONDITIONS, LEAK INTERNALLY AND THEN OVERHEAT, SMOKE, OR BURN. THIS COULD RESULT IN AN UNDERHOOD FIRE."
See this guide by jowens1126 to confirm recall status @ 93 & 94-96 Cruise Control Recalls Repair
Note that the 93 recall is different than 94-96.

Here is the 1995 Bronco Dealer Brochure

1995 Bronco Drivetrain, Powertrain Service Manual - Google Drive
&
1995 Bronco Chassis, Service Manual - Google Drive
To switch between folder list & grid views, click the button to the right of the "DOWNLOAD ALL" button in the upper right corner of the window) by HawkDriver

For any Bronco questions or to chat about it's planned modifications or build, it's better to post each seperately in Noobie Bronco Tech Questions. Flame free zone. This will get more attention and you can build up your post count to get into other sections such as Bronco and Ford Parts/Accessories (75 posts required to view).

To save you time and for better responses, please fill out your Bronco info with location, year, engine size, transmission type, transfer case type (manual or electric shift), locking hub type (automatic or manual) info & major mods such as a Lift, etc. .
Bronco info is now able to be put under your user name.
Click your profile button in the top right and go to account settings.


On that first page, named Account Details, scroll down to "Vehicle Info" and type in up to 100 characters.

Now you can simply enter your information in the text editor and click save.

Our Forum FAQs includes for example, How to Use Search
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See Baba Looey's Favorite FSB Links (lots and lots of tech links)
... Includes such as, How do I fix my back window?

Baba Looey's Favorite FSB Links (lots and lots of tech links) @ Baba Looey's Favorite FSB Links (lots and lots of tech links)
... Includes such as, How do I fix my back window?
¤
See our Full-Size of the Month (F.O.T.M.) & Full-Size of the Year (F.O.T.Y.) Contests @ F.O.T.M Voting
You will get ideas by those competing. Also see the prizes. They are awesome as compared to other sites' "contests"!
Al
 

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Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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I've pondered the same thing. Its definitely doable, but has a few quirks. One is how do you roll it down from the outside, without everyone and their brother being able to do the same? Simple, carry a detachable crank handle and use it like a key. Water hydrants are like this sometimes. What about loading stuff and the internal crank getting in the way. Well it can be solved the same way. I do believe you'll need a bigger regulator for manual crank use as well.
 

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95 5.8L XLT, Hedman Shorties/MF SS Y & Muff, E4OD, Manual hubs, KYB Quads, 31x10.5x15's, 301K miles
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736 Posts
Very Interesting!!!!! Sometimes in the search for saving of the almighty "DOLLAR", people come up with ideas that in all honesty if you have the Knowledge, Ability and Resources there is nothing (You)/that can't be done. Most of the time with the Tailgate and window motors it's the 3 Nylon rollers that disintegrate, they are a really Cheap fix at approx. $10. Next if the motor is bad a Junk Yard run will be all that is needed and maybe new rollers also, this would be the next Cheapest fix. The next Cheapest fix would be to source online a New or Remanufactured motor at approx. $30-$60. All the seals for the rear window can be sourced online for affordable prices at approx. $55-$75 per Seal.
Now to change to a never offered manual window would require a lot of Design work and Fabrication and you would still need to purchase a window Seal (if that is the Seal you are talkinabout).
 

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There are countless posts on how to fix the rear window and ALL the parts are available (not counting the key switch).
Why would you ever want to jury rig a crank !?
 

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welcome! i can't imagine converting to a hand crank would be easier.

the tailgate window system can be a pain but i think once you get it working, it's not too bad to keep working.
 

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1995 Ford Bronco Eddie Bauer
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5 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
There are countless posts on how to fix the rear window and ALL the parts are available (not counting the key switch).
Why would you ever want to jury rig a crank !?
I’ve done a lot of reading and come to the conclusion that this is a common problem with the broncos from around the same year as mine (95). To avoid the problem entirely, I was curious about cutting the electric motor entirely and using a hand crank. I’ll most likely end up fixing the motor or replacing the tailgate entirely (as there is a rust hole beneath the motor at the bottom of the tailgate), but I wanted to see if anybody knew of anything before hand.
 

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i would imagine all thats gone in the motor is the bushings in the gear. same thing that goes out on the other windows. i had to replace mine. worked ever since.
 

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I’ve done a lot of reading and come to the conclusion that this is a common problem with the broncos from around the same year as mine (95). To avoid the problem entirely, I was curious about cutting the electric motor entirely and using a hand crank. I’ll most likely end up fixing the motor or replacing the tailgate entirely (as there is a rust hole beneath the motor at the bottom of the tailgate), but I wanted to see if anybody knew of anything before hand.
It's not just a common problem to the years around yours, it's all the FSBs. Rust at the bottom is common to all also because that's where dirt and water accumulates, especially when seals are bad. You received excellent info already, and if you search there's numerous threads on this issue.

Welcome to FSB and the madness. Post up some pics when you get a chance.
 

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If it turns out to be the motor, I believe it's the same motor as the front drivers side window motor. Passenger side window motor will not fit correctly.
Sorry, I was wrong, it's the passager side that fits. Thank you El Kabong!!!
 

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Driving Stuff Henry Built
-90 xlt, 351w, e4od, man 1356, 3.55, sag, warn hubs, 35s. -73, 400, np435, d20j twin, 35s
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If it turns out to be the motor, I belive it's the same motor as the front drivers side window motor. Passenger side window motor will not fit correctly. Pick n Pull.
It's the opposite. Passenger & tailgate motors interchange & the driver's motor is unique.

Fwiw, most of the time the motor is good & wiring, switches, or torque pins are the issue. If you go to post 3 of the Common Replies link below in my sig has a bunch of window testing info & links to other info.
 
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