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I have a 1990 Bronco and the rear window won't go down. I push the switch and you hear a click but the window doesn't go down. I took off the panel and hooked a drill battery up to the wires and I get the same thing. My guess the window motor is bad but would like to hear some ideas or advice before I throw money at it. Thanks
 

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1986 Bronco Eddie Bauer 5.0 mostly stock
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I wonder how many new members the tailgate of these broncos has given to FSB over the years lol.

You’re probably going to need to get that access panel off and have a look, it might need “help” getting down.

Try using the key to roll it down and push in on the drivers side of the gate when you’re doing it to ensure the safety switch on the latch is engaged properly.

Just a place to start anyway.


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1991 XLT. 5.0, E4OD, manual transfer case, 4.10 LS, factory manual lockouts
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You also may try reversing the polarity on the wires from your drill battery before taking thing apart. There are only the two wires going to the motor and polarity reversal is how it changes direction.
 

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I am sure this has happened to many
The 'traditional' way is to do extreme yoga and crawl into the back, remove the panel, and hot-wire the motor to drop the window so you can open the gate...and go from there
If it does not respond to doing this you have a problem
I'd first try and reverse polarity as jayfourdyce says and see if you can get it to move in EITHER direction
If it will not move in either direction, I'd bet sackman is right and its bound up in some way
May sound kind of brutal but if you apply power AND get a pry bar in there to assist it the window may move?

If not, my next approach would be to find a way of tricking that switch located in the drivers side latch that many bypass by simply taking the two wires and connecting them permanantly
With the switch bypassed you can CAREFULLY trip the latch from inside while somebody outside helps you lower the gate
The gate with the window in the UP position should swing down
......From there you own the thing. Take a look at Bronco Parts Garage 3 part video and you will know everything

Just my $0.02
 

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1995 Eddie Bauer- 351W
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Tons of info on here about it. Once you figure it out, you get your merit badge. I think I have 10 badges at this point. If it makes any noise, you are in better shape than most. If the key works, I would see if it goes up at all. Toggle up and down a few times. If you see any movement or hear noise, that is a good thing. Have someone turn the key while you slide the window down with your hands. If you have any suction cup tools, that would be $$. If you can get it down that way, it probably just needs the tracks cleaned and the square thingys cleaned and re-packed. Some end up replacing those due to corrosion. I think they are riveted on, so you have to drill them out and then screw on an aftermarket replacement.
 

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I would start with trying the advice above, except I doubt you can get the tailgate open if the window is fully raised. The top of the window would be seated in a groove in the cap weatherstrip, which would lock it in place. You'd need it lowered at least a bit.
My '89 started doing what yours is, and the arms were binding. They were a little corroded, and dry. If none of the above works, what I had to do was unbolt the motor from inside, the extreme yoga thing. But then I could lower the window by hand, and open the gate. Then just lube everything, move the window back and forth several times. Put the motor back in, and move it some more, just be careful to support the window when it's out (up position).
Lubing does not cure corrosion, so the surfaces are still rough. Mine would still bind sometimes if I ran the window up tight. So, I run it up tight, and just bump it down a hair, take the pressure off.
One day I guess i'll have to replace it all....
 

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Yo Skullmoe,
Welcome to our DIY BIG Bronco family!

As advised, check the Motor Torque Pins (also called Bushings [
Motor Torque Pin (also called Bushing) Replacement in a 92; "...Dorman HELP part number 74410..."
Source: by digitalbill (Bill Crozier)


Member BikerPepe' replaced his very recently with ball bearings; "...I just rebuilt the drivers and tailgate motors in my recently purchased '95.
I used 11mm steel bearings to replace OEM plastic bearings and marine grease packed inside.
I used white lithium grease on the window tracks while I was there.
I chose the marine grease in the motors and white lithium on the tracks because of the exposure and because it's what I had on the shelf.

If that doesn't get the motor moving like you're looking for... it will still help things out greatly and it seems that all our rigs need it sooner or later.
The final fix for the tailgate motor speed is adding a relay to the harness at the rear. All the wiring is pulling power and ground from the front switch.
Adding the relay gives a sort of "refresh" to the power going to the rear window motor. plenty of write-ups to read on these..."

or 1/4 inch nuts. Grease is only necessary on the central shaft & the outer plastic gear teeth - not in the pockets where the nuts go.

Ford does recommend, "Use Silicone Lubricant C0AZ-19553-AA (jelly) and D7AZ-19553-AA (spray) or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESR-M13P4-A on the door and window weatherstrips whenever necessary. Silicone lubricant helps avoid weatherstrip squeaks and retards excess weatherstrip wear from chafing between the door glass upper frame and the weatherstrip. It also helps to retain door window alignment by reducing friction between the glass frame and the rubber weatherstrip. Use Multi-Purpose Grease Spray D7AZ-19584-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specifications ESR-M1C159-A and ESB-M1C106-B to lubricate door and tailgate hinges. Apply an even coat to all hinge pivot points as outlined in the maintenance schedules or when a binding or squeaking condition occurs..."

miesk5 note, test the silicone on a regular styrofoam cup first; if the cup gets funky or melts, then the can or tube contans oil, a regular occurrence now, esp if from China.

Apply dry (Teflon) lube to the flocked surfaces that touch the glass; dry lube prevents noise & abrasion, and allows the glass to move faster; take off the TG access cover and spray Tri-Flow in the tracks on either side so the regulator toggles slide up and down easy" by JKossarides

White Product Rectangle Font Line


All '80-96 t/g wiring runs from the dash switch (F2TZ-14529-A Motorcraft SW7071 ~$25~65) out the firewall along the frame to the rear bumper up to the L taillight and into the t/g. '80-86 have a large round 3-wire connector in the LHR taillight well; those with rear defrost also have a 1-wire connector. All years with rear defrost have a ground ring screwed to the body in the taillight well. I think '87-91 have the large round connector in front of the taillight AND a smaller round 4-wire connector inside the frame at the LHR body mount. '92-96 only have the frame connector.

Normal operation is as follows:
RAISE from the dash switch:
Power flows thru fuse 14 thru the LB/BK wire thru the IP switch UP contacts thru the P/LG wire thru the key switch UP contacts thru the Y/R wire to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds thru the motor's internal CB, out thru the R/Y wire thru the latch switch thru the T/Bk wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the Pk/LB wire thru the IP switch DOWN contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

LOWER from the dash switch:
Power flows thru fuse 14 thru the LB/BK wire thru the IP switch DOWN contacts thru the Pk/LB wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the T/Bk wire thru the latch switch thru the R/Y wire thru the motor's internal CB to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds out thru the Y/R wire thru the key switch UP contacts thru the P/LG wire thru the IP switch UP contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

RAISE from the key switch:
Power flows thru fuse 12 thru the BK/Wh wire thru the key switch thru the UP contacts thru the Y/R wire to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds thru the motor's internal CB out thru the R/Y wire thru the latch switch thru the T/Bk wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the Pk/LB wire thru the IP switch DOWN contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

LOWER from the key switch:
Power flows thru fuse 12 thru the BK/Wh wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the T/Bk wire thru the latch switch thru the R/Y wire thru the motor's internal CB to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds out thru the Y/R wire thru the key switch UP contacts thru the P/LG wire thru the IP switch UP contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

Note that in ALL cases, EVERY switch is used, and the circuit ALWAYS grounds at the same point.

To eliminate/bypass the dash switch, unplug it & install 2 jumpers as described in the "neutral position" within the diagram. If that text isn't legible, click the pic to supersize it. The following diagram shows how to semipermanently bypass either switch, as well as some other modifications.
By former member Steve83

See my
Font Rectangle Magenta Brand Logo

site graciously recoveredfor me by member schwim @ Ford Bronco And F-150 Links - FORD BRONCO

Here are the 1990 Bronco Pre-Delivery Shop & Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manuals (EVTM), Partial by member Kingfish999 in Google Drive @ 1990 Ford Truck service manuals - Google Drive
&
1990 Ford Truck Emissions Manual.pdf by Ford via member 90.CaliBronco in Google Drive @ 1990 Ford Truck Emissions Manual.pdf
Suggest you download both for faster scrolling and to use the table of contents index.

1990 Ford Bronco Brochure by Ford via Dezo's Garage @ https://www.xr793.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/1990-Ford-Bronco.pdf

Haynes Red Manual for 80-95 Bronco & F Series @ Hanes guide 80-96 bko f series.pdf found by BroncMom!

For any Bronco issues or to chat about it's planned modifications or build, it's better to post each seperately in Noobie Bronco Tech Questions. Flame free zone. This will get more attention and you can build up your post count to get into other sections such as Bronco and Ford Parts/Accessories that requires 50 non-padded posts to participate due to scammers who preyed on our members.
save.

See How to add your 90s Signature @ Bronco Forum - Full Size Ford Bronco Forum by BigBlue 94

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➡See Baba Looey's Favorite FSB Links (lots and lots of tech links) ... includes such as, "Tailgate Window repair & troublehooting".

Try to find time to participate and vote in our Full-Size of the Month Contest & later in the year, Full-Size of the Year Contest @ Voting
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Al
 
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