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I'm sure this has been answered before as I am a long-time Ford owner and fan and having been in the "biz" for years this problem rings a bell. One of my dealers owed me a favor so I took my new toy in for a full detail (i.e under hood steam clean,interior steam clean, exterior detail). When i dropped it off everything worked on the truck. After picking it up I tried the rear window and no luck! I know the motors go bad but what are the chances?! It seems like there is no power going to it as neither opening options work. So I checked the fuses in the inside block, is there another one under the hood? Any insight would be appreciated.
 

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The threads don't tell you everything. I just had similar. If the window is stuck up, you are lucky. remove the cover and to the center of the unit (reach behind) you can find the connector for the motor. One side plus, other neg = will raise the window. Reverse the wires and it goes down. If it works...this rules out the motor being shot. Then there is a another bowl of worms: trying to find the faulty ground, bad switch. I ended up running a (fused) hot lead from the battery in the cab to a switch (Radio Shack $3.95) that flips the (polarity) wires, had to run two wires to meet the switch.
 

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What did you use a hot jumper wire or something? It's liek the power was just shut off as there is no electrical drain when I flip the switch. So is it a reverse gound switch like the Mustangs? oh nuts! I just don't understand why it happened to not work after going to the detail shop! This is why I do all my own work, I have never had a car detailed but did it since it was a freebie.
 

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Rest in Peace Friend...
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If both switches are failing, it sounds like a the ground. Here is a diagram of the circuit. It is easy to troubleshoot with a volt meter.

Good luck,
 

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I had an extra battery and some "clippy" wires. I put the battery inside the vehicle to run the test. Door closed window up. Motor OK? Check for the "tailgate fully closed". The driver's side latch has an electrical switch that may not be connecting, this will prevent the window from working...just like someone shut off all the power. This tailgate problem can be a real B##CH! I ran a hot lead through the dash to a switch (radio Shack-six pole, double throw) behind my head by the seat belt anchor, ran two wires (all 10 gauge - thick stuff, solder and crimp fittings) to the tailgate. Took out the original wires, disconnected the tailgate switch, ran new wires through the tailight area. Had to drill a hole into the cargo area (driver's side taillite lens area) to get the wires inside. I don't care how it looks, I WANT IT TO WORK - it does now. Let us know how it goes.
 

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Wicked Pete said:
I had an extra battery and some "clippy" wires. I put the battery inside the vehicle to run the test. Door closed window up. Motor OK? Check for the "tailgate fully closed". The driver's side latch has an electrical switch that may not be connecting, this will prevent the window from working...just like someone shut off all the power. This tailgate problem can be a real B##CH! I ran a hot lead through the dash to a switch (radio Shack-six pole, double throw) behind my head by the seat belt anchor, ran two wires (all 10 gauge - thick stuff, solder and crimp fittings) to the tailgate. Took out the original wires, disconnected the tailgate switch, ran new wires through the tailight area. Had to drill a hole into the cargo area (driver's side taillite lens area) to get the wires inside. I don't care how it looks, I WANT IT TO WORK - it does now. Let us know how it goes.
:stupid This is all true. If I was you I would be checking the safety switch
 

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Call Me Ace
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damn safety switch has had me searching for hours before.
they probably didnt close the tgate all the way. you might want to try giving the sides of the tailgate a good smack/push- and see if it latches. if it does, the window should roll down like normal.
ace
 

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Call Me Ace
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:lolup hes just bragging now...
 

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Steve83 said:
Everything that has been mentioned so far is covered in my photos. :shrug
So how would a newbee know to look at them if nobody pointed them to it :cry .

How could I have missed suggesting the safety switch, probably the most frequent cause of this problem :scratchhe . By the way, you can just bypass that switch if it is the problem. It is more trouble than it is worth.

Get out your meter and good luck,
 
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