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I have a 96 and have verified the motor works fine. How do I bypass the safety switch? Neither the dash button nor the rear key works. The rear key just stopped working last week. The dash faded several yerars ago. The fuse appears good.
 

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Clean the dash switch with emery and that started working, the key still does not, will replace the dash witch.
 

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The problem is the tail gate switch same happenened to me in my 87 also found out conection to window motor faulty so went from the connection behind drivers rear taillight to motor but if that fail identify the wires at dash switch and run new wire to back for window.
 

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MORTAL KOMBAAAAAAATTT!!!!
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The problem is the tail gate switch same happenened to me in my 87 also found out conection to window motor faulty so went from the connection behind drivers rear taillight to motor but if that fail identify the wires at dash switch and run new wire to back for window.

.............................,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Where did these go?
 

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Good deal. It's always a good thing when all 3 windows work.
 

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I would check the TG door strikers, if they are out of adjustment just a bit the TG won't close flush and the window won't go up/down, check the PW pigtail/connector in the left quarter panel that goes to the motor for any frayed wires because it gets kinked right there from opening/closing repeatedly you know......................:banghead

Also it wouldn't hurt to spray some silcione in the felt track to help it travel better so less torque on the motor and I would take off the TG skid plate and look inside and see how everything looks and do a little maintenance check for rust, maybe smear some grease on the backing plate teeth that match up to the TG motor...........to help extend the life because it's a PITA to get out due to the rivets.......................:doh0715:

Just a thought ~

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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I Also it wouldn't hurt to spray some silcione in the felt track to help it travel better so less torque on the motor and I would take off the TG skid plate and look inside and see how everything looks and do a little maintenance check for rust, maybe smear some grease on the backing plate teeth that match up to the TG motor...........to help extend the life because it's a PITA to get out due to the rivets.......................:doh0715:

Just a thought ~

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
My tailgate motor runs but no action. Just a small, kinda thumping sound....either the motor gears are shot or I'm not engaging. Since you have apparently "been there, done that". Motors aren't cheap enough to just buy one because....

Any ideas? :banghead
 

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The stuff below is cut & paste from an earlier reply, but it covers a lot of tailgate window stuff. Use what applies to your situation. Especially take a look at the links for Torque pins, Steve's Tailgate Tech, & Adrianspeeder's pics since your motor runs but the window doesn't move.


Does it make any noise at all? Like the motor's turning, but the window doesn't move? If so, there are torque pins in the motor's drive gear that commonly break & aren't too bad to replace. See the torque pin, Steve83's Tailgate Tech, & Adrianspeeder's links below. If it makes no noise, then it's probably in the electrical system. Fireguy50's wiring diagram is linked below.

To test the electrical system, remove the access panel from inside the tailgate. Run test wires from the battery directly to the window motor connector (Yellow & red wires coming right out of the motor) to confirm that the motor works. To lower the window, it should be positive to red, & negative to yellow. Be ready for the window to move, keep hands & wires clear. Make all the connections but 1, then connect & disconnect the last wire quickly to see if it tries to go the right way. If it tries to go the wrong way, reverse the wires (This also makes it so that you can lower the window & get the tailgate open to continue testing).

A- If it runs & the window moves when wired directly to the battery, perform the following tests:

A.1- With both switches at rest, connect a tester between the positive test wire from the battery & each wire from the tailgate loom at the connector for the motor. Both should read 12v. If they do the ground is good. If they don't, refer to Fireguy50's wiring diagram linked below to trace it down, or tell us what you find.

A.2- Connect the tester between the negative test wire from the battery & each wire from the loom at the connector for the motor. The red wire should read 12v when either switch is in the down position, the yellow wire should read 12v when either switch is in the up position. If they don't, refer to Fireguy50's wiring diagram linked below to trace it down, or tell us what you find.

B- If it runs but doesn't move when wired directly to the battery, in addition to your electrical problem, the torque pins in the drive gear are probably broken too. Run the electrical tests in section "A" above, & see the torque pin, Steve83's Tailgate Tech, & Adrianspeeder's links below for the torque pin replacement.

C- If it doesn't run at all when wired directly to the battery, it sounds like it's time for a new motor. See Steve83's Tailgate Tech link below & use the info for removing & replacing the motor.



Be aware that:

-The tailgate latch switch on the driver's side seems to be a common problem, check it early. Try pushing the driver's side of the tailgate in while holding the button or key switch in the up or down position. If that makes it work, check out Steve83's "How to align a Bronco Tailgate" linked below.

-Ground for the motor connects up front, & at rest runs from there through both switches & both wires to the motor.

-When either switch is operated, 1 side's ground is disconnected & replaced by hot.

-Ground for the motor is not connected to it's case, but supplied through the wires.

-There are seperate 2 power sources & 2 fuses for positive. 1 for each switch.

-The same 2 wires are used throughout for both up & down (Polarity is reversed by the switches).

-When the tailgate is open, you have to close the driver's side latch for the window to operate. Remember to open it before closing the tailgate.



Some good resource links:

Fireguy50's wiring diagram, see post 2. Great color diagram, it makes it much easier to understand what's going on.

Steve83's Tailgate Tech. Great pics & info. Look through the entire section for the portion that applies to your problem.

adrianspeeder's pics (He's doing torque pins for a passenger window, for the tailgate you don't need to drill).

Torque pins, motors, etc.

Steve83's How to align a Bronco Tailgate

Fireguy50's Re-wire your Tailgate window switch (FINISHED) Upgrade diagram using relays.



On my truck there were multiple bad connections, so it was hard to isolate the problem. Someone before me used a ton of crimp connectors :doh0715:. Basically I ended up removing them & soldering all the connections, & eliminating the corroded plug to the motor.
 

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tapiot:

I found a local auto electric shop and had mine rebuilt for $65-70.00 mainly because it was an OEM that fit perfectly, I tried several aftermarkets but the holes never seemed to line up, you may want to either use rivots again or some good grade bolts and nuts that have the plastic lock thread, I added a bit of heat shrink to the bolts to get a tighter fit in the TG motor housing holes to make sure the motor wouldn't rachet in place when the motor is working ....:doh0715:

There a number of inexpensive grear replacement kits for DIY on these PW or TG motors and countless threads here for reference so you might want to give that a thought....................:chili:


Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 
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