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Discussion Starter #1
So I have spent a good chunk of time wrestling with my rear window as many people on here. A month or two ago I replaced the motor and cleaned it all up. Then today I put it all the way down, which I rarely do just in case it happens to break again... and it tore the wire right in half. I suppose I had it zip tied in the wrong way. So now it is stuck all the way down and I was able to get the nuts off the bolts of the guides holding the window in place but I can't seem to get the bolts out of there. I tried a pair of pliers on the tail end of the bolt that I can reach and reversing them out but no luck and it is in a super inconvenient spot to do that.

I know this has been covered quite a bit on these forums but I can't figure this specific bit out. Any ideas for pulling it out or even just getting it 3" up so I can attach a new wire and have some elbow room to work on it?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
The yellow (negative) wire coming out of the motor broke right behind the window. Ah that is true though that I might be able to feed it up the back and power it. I have a sinking feeling it isn't long enough but it just may be! It takes 12 volts correct? Any suggestions on what to power it with?
 

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Good info to have! Not to hijack but is there a definitive thread here dedicated to redoing the tailgate release mechanisms, mine is hard to open and would like to "redo" mine so its easy to release. Im not seeing one...

Cross my fingers my rear window is working good.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Steve in my TG there is only one wire, the wire coming from the motor and going into the cabin through the left side of the tailgate. The wire broke six inches down from the motor right trapped in the arm of the moving mechanism and between the rear metal and the window. Sorry not to be clear, I am still a bit of a novice but I truly appreciate the help and I'll take the condescension along with it.

So it looks like it will reach out after being ripped even though I did wire it pretty poorly.

So you're wondering but what can I power it with? I suppose I can probably stretch the other ripped end of the wire out to meet it. I'll be crossing my fingers hoping that works.
 

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Go to Radio Shack and get a package of jumpers. Then find the gray connector on the center section of the tailgate and unplug it. Get your cordless drill and connect up one of the jumpers to one terminal of the cordless battery and one terminal of the gray connector. Get another jumper and connect it to the other terminal of your drill, and then touch the other end of the jumper to the other terminal on the gray connector. The motor should try to move, if it's the wrong direction, reverse the wiring.
All you'll ever need to know plus 10% is in Steve83's excellent writeup on his Supermotors pages. Read it, look at the schematics, learn.

http://www.supermotors.net/registry/2742/12689-2
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Oh yeah I just meant one set of wires, but you're correct it was red and yellow. So I was able to just barely pull the yellow out and solder it to a longer wire and the red was already long enough. I can now connect them to the connections on the connector that the motor wires plug in to. But of course the battery died when my roommate went to grab his bag and left the door open for a few hours :banghead so I need to get a jump and hopefully it'll be good to go!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hmm I hadn't heard that before but great to know, I didn't realize it was an issue. Actually I put my multimeter on the battery and it was pumping out 12.8V so I checked around and tightening the new terminals I had put on the battery all the way got it to start right up without any hesitation.

Going to test my solution for the window this afternoon.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
It worked!! I was able to solder a wire on, move the window up, pull out the window, re-wire the window motor and install it back into the tailgate! Working much better now after cleaning up the wiring (after doing it correctly this time) and lubing up the latches.

Here is the fixed window motor with new wires spliced on where the other one was torn: http://i.imgur.com/nL9R2aq.jpg

Thanks for the assistance fellas, saved me from a massive headache.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yep as far as I can tell everything seems to be in place! Thanks for the diagram.
 
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