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Discussion Starter #1
Ok , my wifes rear window just quit. I took off the panel and narrowed it down to the saftey switch. I called the local parts houses and the dealer and nobody has it and Ford has discontinued it.I know I could probably go to a JY and get one out of another , but my thought it to "hot wire" the switch and be done with it. My Ford guy said just get a door switch and fab it in to work. I guess my question here is what have you done to remedy this issue and is "hot wireing" and good alternitive. I realize that she will have to be sure the rear door is shut tight and check the window as it goes up, this is not an issue.
Thanks
 

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Before you decide it's the safety switch, if you haven't tried this I would.

Open the t/g, on the driver's side & swivel the crows feet together (as if the latch/ t/g is closed) making sure it latches completely closed. Try raising the window with either switch.
If it doesnt move, your assessment is probably correct.
IIRC the safety switch is intergral to the driver's side latch.
I dont like the idea of hot wiring around a safety switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well I kinda did the same thing but from the inside, I actually held the safety switch down and had a guy turn the key and the window didn't move we ran a jumper around it and it worked fine so I'm 99.99% sure that switch is bad. We used to have to close the gate a couple of times to get the window to up. I'm not a fan of skirting safety either but in this case I'm not sure what else to do.
 

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FIRST, the tailgate has to "close flush" with the body line or the safety switch prevents the window from working and this is a simple adjustment of the "door striker bolts" part # 38420 that requires a # T-50 Torx socket but in order to do that you need to able to drop the TG down/open and an inward adjustment will bring the TG in tight, make sure the "door striker bushings" part # 38424 are intact as well, these are the anti-rattle device. Doorman is the mfg for ds bolts and bushings found in the Help section in most auto parts stores.

If it is the safety switch inside pull off the TG "access panel" and work from there, there should be enough room with a good light to test the wires for voltage issues or replace the switch with a new one.

One other thing to check is, with the tailgate is down look in the left rear quater panel tail light area for the TG wiring harness and see what condition it's in, over time from opening and closing the TG that harness gets bent and damaged affecting voltage to the PW motor.

You'll notice the harness goes into the bottom of the TG box, running along the inside thee right up to the PW motor with a connector.

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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yo, Ck local yards; then on-line search
For a YARD SEARCH on-line, I use;
http://www.mypartshop.com/
Select All Parts
year, etc, then FORD TRUCK
Selected Tail Finish Panel
add Zip
many results

--
or
http://www.copartfinder.com
Has Vehicle Pics!
http://www.picknpull.com

http://www.car-parts.com/


Also for obsolete parts;
Our Sponsor here has been adding some to inventory; Jeff's Bronco Graveyard
none shown

and: by Ford pn:
http://www.partsvoice.com/
http://www.rearcounter.com
http://www.greensalescompany.com


The safety switch was moved from the center (tailgate handle) to the left latch by 1983 by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W)

Latch Parts Break-Out Diagram in 83-96 w/ Nomenclature; "...78-82 latches are different from 83-96...";
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
To permanently defeat it (and risk breaking the t/g glass), unplug its connector & install a jumper wire between the 2 sockets.
 

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I yanked all the factory wires, switches and crap out of both my Broncos and wired them up with ON-OFF-ON switches mounted on the inside quarters behind the drivers seat. DONE! So far no issues.
 

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...we ran a jumper around it and it worked fine...
Around it how? From exactly where to exactly where? All you have to do is install a paperclip in the switch connector from one wire to the other. You don't even have to unplug the switch, unless that makes it easier to install the jumper.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Around it how? From exactly where to exactly where? All you have to do is install a paperclip in the switch connector from one wire to the other. You don't even have to unplug the switch, unless that makes it easier to install the jumper.
"Around it" was a bad choice of words we didn't use a paper clip, used a wire but same basic idea.
 

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Hey all, i know this is an older thread, but i searched in other places and didn't seem to find the exact information that bailed me out of my situation in one place, so thought i would add on here for posterity... and hopefully ask some flame free noobie questions too :unsure:.

I bought a 96 Bronco XL last week. In great shape all things considered, but (of course) it also came with a range of minor and not-so-minor issues. This one fits in the middle of that range. I know this topic is extensively covered, so I'll say up front that the main thing I'm trying to add that i didn't see anywhere else is a picture of rear window position switch bypass jumper wiring.

Bronco back window was stuck in place a few inches open as purchased. Previous owner said rear window motor had gone out several months before and the window had been that way for months. Basically, no way to either open the tailgate or keep the back end closed up until some glass got on the move. It's winter in northern Utah, so not the best timing, plus i didn't want moisture continually dumping into the tailgate internals anymore. I got a motor swapped out (PS, that install sucks, i ended up drilling some access holes in the tailgate just to make fastening hardware easier), still no love from the dash switch or key switch. Following excellent advice found in other threads on this site, i jumpered a 12V source to the motor and at least got the glass the rest of the way up. Looking at the tailgate, i could tell it was not latched all the way and figured the tailgate position safety switch could be part of the problem. It also seemed that my fastest route to next steps would be to bypass the safety switch, as i was already working on the tailgate from the inside. I dug thorough a few forums looking for what was finally the solution, which i pulled off a wiring diagram in the awesome supermotors write up (I would put links in for credit, noob status doesn't allow that though, so sorry to original authors for lack of attribution). If you find yourself in this same position, the wires to jumper come from the key switch, inside the tailgate on the drivers side: jump red w/ yellow stripe to tan w/ black stripe. I used an inline splice connector, as the working space is tight and i was accessing from the inside with the glass up.

154103


In this configuration, the dash switch worked and i got the glass to go up and down. I also got the tailgate open and gave the driver side latch mechanism a much-needed Valentines Day special lube and massage. Tailgate now latches well on both sides, window operation is smooth(ish). Everything works as i would have hoped - mostly. The glass goes up and down from the dash, but not yet from the key switch in the tail gate. I have tried with the key externally, and also tried by reaching in from the inside of the tailgate (with the tailgate closed...) and pushing the switch buttons directly.

If the tailgate glass will operate properly from the dash switch but not from the tailgate key switch, what did i miss? Perhaps each switch has its own fusing?

Also, i am still not sure where is the tailgate position safety switch actually is. I know what it's supposed to look like, but i did not see anything that looked like it in the tailgate valances. I was sure it would be obvious with the tailgate open, but it wasn't... is it buried inside the drivers side latch mechanism?

Thanks!
 

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I can't remember what the safety switch actully looks like, but you will see a 2 wire harness running off to it on the driver side. Mine is bypassed with a jumper wire with 2 male spade connectors at each end should I ever decide to connect it back up...maybe in another 5 years. Since you said you have tried both key and manually with the buttons, makes me wonder if the hot wire (black/white) running back there has an issue. The power for the rear window switch for key operation is handled by the circuit breaker in the dash fuse panel (easy to see which of these is not like the others) that also handles for power locks and lumbar support which is hot at all times, and the way the system works overall is if one switch is bad neither will work, so for both up and down to not work on the rear switch would more than likely be an issue with that power source.
 

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Hey all, i know this is an older thread, but i searched in other places and didn't seem to find the exact information that bailed me out of my situation in one place, so thought i would add on here for posterity... and hopefully ask some flame free noobie questions too :unsure:.

I bought a 96 Bronco XL last week. In great shape all things considered, but (of course) it also came with a range of minor and not-so-minor issues. This one fits in the middle of that range. I know this topic is extensively covered, so I'll say up front that the main thing I'm trying to add that i didn't see anywhere else is a picture of rear window position switch bypass jumper wiring.

Bronco back window was stuck in place a few inches open as purchased. Previous owner said rear window motor had gone out several months before and the window had been that way for months. Basically, no way to either open the tailgate or keep the back end closed up until some glass got on the move. It's winter in northern Utah, so not the best timing, plus i didn't want moisture continually dumping into the tailgate internals anymore. I got a motor swapped out (PS, that install sucks, i ended up drilling some access holes in the tailgate just to make fastening hardware easier), still no love from the dash switch or key switch. Following excellent advice found in other threads on this site, i jumpered a 12V source to the motor and at least got the glass the rest of the way up. Looking at the tailgate, i could tell it was not latched all the way and figured the tailgate position safety switch could be part of the problem. It also seemed that my fastest route to next steps would be to bypass the safety switch, as i was already working on the tailgate from the inside. I dug thorough a few forums looking for what was finally the solution, which i pulled off a wiring diagram in the awesome supermotors write up (I would put links in for credit, noob status doesn't allow that though, so sorry to original authors for lack of attribution). If you find yourself in this same position, the wires to jumper come from the key switch, inside the tailgate on the drivers side: jump red w/ yellow stripe to tan w/ black stripe. I used an inline splice connector, as the working space is tight and i was accessing from the inside with the glass up.

View attachment 154103

In this configuration, the dash switch worked and i got the glass to go up and down. I also got the tailgate open and gave the driver side latch mechanism a much-needed Valentines Day special lube and massage. Tailgate now latches well on both sides, window operation is smooth(ish). Everything works as i would have hoped - mostly. The glass goes up and down from the dash, but not yet from the key switch in the tail gate. I have tried with the key externally, and also tried by reaching in from the inside of the tailgate (with the tailgate closed...) and pushing the switch buttons directly.

If the tailgate glass will operate properly from the dash switch but not from the tailgate key switch, what did i miss? Perhaps each switch has its own fusing?

Also, i am still not sure where is the tailgate position safety switch actually is. I know what it's supposed to look like, but i did not see anything that looked like it in the tailgate valances. I was sure it would be obvious with the tailgate open, but it wasn't... is it buried inside the drivers side latch mechanism?

Thanks!
Yes, each switch has it's own fuse. See the schematic below:


https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/981908/fullsize/96-bronco-evtm--tailgate-window-pg.-1002.jpg
 

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Yo nate424,
Tailgate safety switch is located inside tg at drive side latch
This'll give you an idea of latch limit switch location as to rod to the latch from the center handle mechanism.
The handle is often found to be Not in a flat position. See Tailgate Latch and Handle - Just Jump In?
By BikerPepe`


Latch Switch.
Tailgates Striker Bushing may need to be replaced if worn.

Try pushing hard on tailgate, driver side about 6 inches below horizontal glass weatherstrip, then try key switch.

"Your key switch may have worn to the point where there's enough slop in the mechanism where it isn't pushing down on the little pin enough to close the contacts for the up position. It's hard to describe- very easy to see once you have it in your hands." by Dustball

"RAISE from the key switch:
Power flows thru fuse 12 thru the BK/Wh wire thru the key switch thru the UP contacts thru the Y/R wire to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds thru the motor's internal CB out thru the R/Y wire thru the latch switch thru the T/Bk wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the Pk/LB wire thru the IP switch DOWN contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

LOWER from the key switch:
Power flows thru fuse 12 thru the BK/Wh wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the T/Bk wire thru the latch switch thru the R/Y wire thru the motor's internal CB to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds out thru the Y/R wire thru the key switch UP contacts thru the P/LG wire thru the IP switch UP contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

Note that in ALL cases, EVERY switch is used, and the circuit ALWAYS grounds at the same point..." by Steve

Does tailgate appear to be "centered" as to quarter panels?
Tailgate Alignment by Steve @ Bronco Tailgate Alignment
 

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Here's what the tailgate safety switch looks like on the left tailgate latch.

 
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