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Discussion Starter #1
Alright, I may have screwed up while I was putting my new exhaust in but I need help figuring this out. I've been working on getting my exhaust installed between work and family responsibilities. Saturday, I got everything installed except the tailpipe. I had to drive it yesterday to pick up the wife from the dealership after she dropped off her car and my other vehicle was also in the shop.

Anyway, when we were leaving the dealership, the Bronco felt like the emergency brake wasn't releasing completely. I'm assuming the muffler was blowing hot exhaust on the emergency brake cable heating it up as I was driving and making it sticky now. Does this sound possible or do I need to look at something else? Also, what do I need to do to fix this? It now feels like every time I start off after it's been sitting for an hour or more that the rear brakes are dragging. But after I get rolling, they don't feel that way anymore.

I really need help on this one. I'm not sure if I can fix or need to replace something or if I'm even looking in the right place. Could it be the brake assembly? It's not pulling to 1 side or the other. When I release the parking brake, it doesn't seem to return with as much spring as it did before. I did have the parking brake applied pretty hard for the last few days while I was crawling under it. It's just odd how it only happened after I drove it for a few minutes at speed.

Thanks
 

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Roller rockers are gay
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next time you let it sit for a few hours with the brake on, jack up the rear end, and release the parking brake with trans in Neutral.......try and spin the tires by hand.

i've found that working on one thing, will bring about other "problems" which aren't problems at all, they are just vehicular habits that are noticed because the driver is now paying more attention to the vehicle......sometimes it is in fact another problem.

just make sure you aren't mindfawking yourself, i've done it more times than i can count......i hear shit that isn't there.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks. This definitely isn't a MindFawk thing. I'm going to try to go through it after I get off work today to make sure I didn't accidentally tweak the brake lines when I was installing the exhaust. the other day, after I got it initially installed, I drove it around the block a couple of times to burn off that new smell and the brakes didn't stick then. It was only after I drove it for a few miles at highway speed that this has started to happen. I'll be working on it again this weekend I guess. I still need to shorten the YPipe to make room for the 2.5-2.25 converter piece between the Converter and the muffler. then get it all clamped down and the system will be fully sealed.

It is odd though, I thought about it, last night, I didn't set the brake two different times and each time it felt like the rear brakes were dragging. fortunately, I have a 300 so it was able to pull off anyway. Unfortunately, I have no choice right now but to drive it since both my Ram and the wife's Escape are in the shop. I can only hope I don't cause any more damage than I can easily over the next couple of days.
 

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Unless the tubing is pressing up against a brake line or there is a brake line right where the exhaust is coming out, I'd say you have another problem.
 

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Rather then guessing just retract the shoes and pull off the drums to see if anything is out of place like a broken self adjuster cable/s or mounting pin/s or a broken piece of brake lining material etc. etc. etc. it doesn't take much.

Make sure the "bolts" for each backing plate to axle flange are properly torqued otherwise it will "ratchet" back and forth every time you brake feeling very sensitive and grabby locking up the brakes with little pressure on the pedal...

Once you resolve the issue "re-adjust" the brakes by expanding the shoes out until the tire can't spin then retract the brakes until you hear and feel a slight drag, shoes to drum while turning the wheel. I use a floor jack under the differential center to left the rear of the BKO just a few inches off a level garage floor, parking brake off and in Neutral this way if the floor jack fails the BKO won't go anywhere and it's high enough nothing will get hurt...lol lol....block the front wheels.

Check the parking brake assembly, lubricate it and see if that helps with the "release"..

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well, got it home and had to beat the drum off the right rear. The brakes were so tight I couldn't get it off. There was a lot of dust in there but the shoes still looked nearly new aside from the rust inside. I'll definitely need to take them back apart and clean everything up this weekend or next. I have no idea why they suddenly adjusted to a point of being so tight. The parking brake doesn't seem to engage on the right side but works well on the left. I spoke to my FIL and he said the rear brakes have never been worked on since he had bought it new. There's only 87K on it. I may even go so far as just replacing the shoes and drums. The rear right actually had the the shadow of the brake shoe on it when I got it off. Got it back together, no thanks to the Florida State Birds that come out after dark and everything seems to be working OK for now. We'll see how it goes the rest of the week.

Another thing I noticed when I was spinning the wheel was a high pitched whine that I'd heard a few times in the past when driving down the road. It was kinda like a high pitched, fingernails on chalkboard metallic whine that would come and go. I think the brake may have been tight on there for some time and only just got to a point of heavy drag coincidentally after I'd had it up on on ramps for a few days.
 

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there is a access hole on back of the drum backing plate to adjust the starwheel to back off the tension on the shoes. Then you won't have to pound the drum off.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yeah, I tried that. I either wasn't hitting it with the screwdriver or the brakes just weren't moving in when I was turning it. I didn't take a picture because I just didn't have time but the entire system on the right rear looked rusty. Noting like how the left side looked. I think it may have been a problem I didn't know about from it having sat in the garage for 3 years and not really being driven during that time. I'm going to clean it up and go through it this weekend hopefully if I have time and see what's going on with that side.

I suspect what happened was that the left side isn't really functional and over time the self adjuster was increasing the brake shoes out and after I applied the parking brake enough times it finally hit the limit. The slave cylinders still function and work the brakes but the parking brake engagement doesn't work on the right rear side but works well on the left. So we'll see after I get the time to actually tear into it and investigate it further.
 

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yo John;
Look in my site @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=759

for such as;
Parking Brake Control Assembly Concerns TSB 00-1-2 for 92-94 Bronco & F Series Built Through 4/22/1994 & 93-94 Ranger & Explorer Built Through 5/13/1994
Source: by Ford via Chilton

synopsis; The parking brake control assembly may bind causing it not to engage, fully release, or return
read more

and similar;
Parking Brake Service Procedure TSB 00-01-03 for 92-94 Bronco & F Series Built Through 4/22/1994 & 93-94 Ranger & Explorer Built Through 5/13/1994
FORD: 1992-94 BRONCO, F-150-350 SERIES
1993-94 EXPLORER, RANGER

ISSUE: When servicing the parking brake or service brake systems where the lock-in wedge has been installed in the parking brake control, additional service procedures will be necessary.

ACTION: When a lock-in wedge part has been previously installed in the parking brake control assembly, it must be removed prior to conducting maintenance procedures from the appropriate Service Manual, Sections 06-04 (Rear Drum Brakes) and 06-05 (Parking Brake System). The wedge must be reinstalled after service is completed. Refer to Service Recall Bulletin 94S91-S3 for lock-in wedge part removal and installation detailed service procedures, part numbers, and diagrams. Be sure to inspect the wedge for damage. If any part of the wedge is broken or damaged, install a new wedge.



parkingbrakecables.jpg | Hits: 5026 | Posted on: 1/21/06 | View Low-Res

Adjustment & Cables in 92-96

Parking Brake Cables ('92-96)
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

1 Control Assembly 2780
2 2 Nut M8 x 1.25 Hex Flange 17-23 N-m (13-17 Ft-Lb) N620481-S
3 Cable Assembly, Front 2853
4 Cable Assembly, Intermediate 2A793
5 Equalizer 2A602
6 Bracket 2530
7 Rivet N647097-S
8 Clip, 10 x 10 N800962-S32
9 Screw, Tap 5/16-18 x 3/4 Hex Washer Head 24-30 N-m (18-22 Ft-Lb) 40949-S2
10 Cable and Conduit Assembly, Right 2A635 (Wagner BC132090 / BC94490)
11 Cable and Conduit Assembly, Left 2A809
12 Clip N804729-S11
13 Screw and Washer 5/16 x 18 x .50 Hex Head 17-23 N-m (13-17 Ft-Lb) 57632-S2
14 Steering Column Support 3B139

Park Brake Cable Removal
1.Remove the left kick panel.
2. Disconnect the parking brake indicator light switch connector at the control assembly.
3. Remove the three nuts holding the control assembly to the steering column support. Pull the control assembly away from the steering column support.
4. Relieve tension on the parking brake system by having an assistant pull on the intermediate cable until all cable is unwound from the control assembly.
5. Insert a 5/32-inch drill bit or equivalent into the hole provided in the control assembly.
6. Disconnect the front cable from the cable connector.
7.Disconnect the barrel end of the cable from the control assembly.
8.Disconnect the cable conduit from the control assembly by inserting a 1/2-inch 12-point box end wrench over the conduit snap fitting to compress the retaining fingers and backing out the snap fitting.


by Ford via Steve83


Equalizer pic, 92-96 w/tension limiter built into the pedal assembly
Source: by Tim O (RED WAGON, redwagon) at http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=56321

Inspection & Cleaning in a 96 from the 1996 F-150, F-250, F-350, and Bronco Workshop Manual; "...Inspect the parking brake control (2780) and look for loose mounting bolts, damaged or missing parts. Operate the parking brake and check for binding or seized components. Raise and support the vehicle and remove any debris that may interfere with parking brake operation. Check the condition of the parking brake cables. Look for abrasion or cables rubbing on body or frame parts. Repair, replace or reroute as necessary. Remove the brake drums (1126) and have an assistant operate the parking brake just enough to observe operation. Look for damaged or missing parts. Lubricate parking brake parts with Disc Brake Caliper Slide Grease D7AZ-19590-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C172-A..."
Source: by Ford
Excerpts;
Parking Brake Will Not Release
Brake drag.
ADJUST parking brake cables or service binding condition. INSPECT for broken or missing springs.

Rough brake drum surface.
SMOOTH brake drum with emery paper, or REPLACE if brake drum is badly scored.
CAUTION: Brake drum to be replaced if inside diameter exceeds 229.36mm (9.030 inches).

GO to Pinpoint Test B.
B2 PARKING BRAKE CABLE CHECK
Release the parking brake control.
Does the parking brake control release?
Yes INSPECT parking brake cable for binding. SERVICE as necessary. RETEST system.
No SERVICE the worn or damaged parking brake control. RETEST the system.


Recall, Parking Brake, Self-Adjust Pawl Alignment info for 92; 94V169001 Recall Summary THE PARKING BRAKE CONTROL SELF-ADJUST PAWL DOES NOT LINE UP PROPERLY WITH THE SELF-ADJUST RACHET CAUSING THE PAWL TO SLIP OVER ONE OR MORE TEETH IN THE RACHET. Consequence WHEN THE ABOVE OCCURS, IT CAN RESULT IN PARKING BRAKE SYSTEM INEFFECTIVENESS. THE PARKING BRAKE WILL NOT HOLD THE VEHICLE, CAUSING THE VEHICLE TO ROLL FREELY, IF THE TRANSMISSION IS NOT LEFT IN GEAR. Remedy A WEDGE WILL BE INSTALLED WHICH WILL SERVE TO LOCK THE PARKING BRAKE SELF-ADJUST MECHANISM PAWL INTO ENGAGEMENT WITH THE RACHET. ALSO, OWNERS WILL BE ADVISED TO RELEASE AND REAPPLY THE PARKING BRAKE WHENEVER TOOTH SKIP OCCURS AND WILL BE REMINDED TO ALWAYS TURN OFF THE ENGINE AND LEAVE THE VEHICLE IN GEAR WHEN THE VEHICLE IS PARKED. miesk5 NOTE; this site will not let you use your browser's Back Button to return to this page; open it a new window
Source: by internetautoguide.com


Rear Brake Shoe and Lining, Disassembled

See attached Image h9932a below
Item Part Number Description
1 20310-S Rear Wheel Cylinder Retaining Bolt (2 Req'd)
2 34941-S Washer
3 2211 Brake Backing Plate
4 2028 Brake Shoe Anchor Pin Guide Plate
5 2261 Rear Wheel Cylinder
6 2042 Wheel Cylinder Brake Shoe Link
7 2A642 Primary Brake Shoe Parking Brake Lever Link
8 2A637 Parking Brake Lever
9 2200 Secondary Shoe Assembly
10 351467-S Washer
11 2106 Parking Brake Lever Pin Retainer
12 2A179 Cable Guide
13 2A176 Brake Shoe Adjusting Lever
14 2048 Socket
15 372583-S Washer
16 2041 Brake Adjuster Screw
17 2047 Brake Shoe Adjusting Screw Nut
18 2066 Brake Shoe Hold-Down Spring Cup
19 2068 Brake Shoe Hold-Down Spring
20 2200 Primary Shoe Assembly
21 2049 Brake Shoe Adjusting Screw Spring
22 2A178 Brake Shoe Adjusting Lever Cable
23 2035 Brake Shoe Retracting Spring
24 2A601 Parking Brake Link Spring
25 2A787 Retainer
(Parking Brake Spring)
26 2069 Brake Shoe Hold-Down Spring Pin
27 2092 Brake Adjusting Hole Cover

Removal

Remove the LH cowl side panel (02038).

To gain the needed slack, have an assistant pull the intermediate cable toward the rear of the vehicle.

While the assistant holds the intermediate cable, insert a 4mm (0.156 in.) pin into the hole provided in the parking brake control (2780).

see image h10361a


WARNING: DO NOT INHALE DUST FROM BRAKES OR ASSOCIATED COMPONENTS. INHALATION OF DUST CAN BE HAZARDOUS TO YOUR HEALTH. COMPRESSED AIR OR BRUSHES MUST NOT BE USED TO CLEAN BRAKES, BRAKE DRUMS (1126) AND ASSOCIATED COMPONENTS. A VACUUM CLEANER (ROTUNDA BRAKE/CLUTCH/SERVICE VACUUM 164-R3600 OR EQUIVALENT) EQUIPPED FOR THIS PURPOSE SHOULD BE CAREFULLY USED TO REMOVE ANY DUST. ADHERENT DUST SHOULD BE REMOVED WITH A DAMP RAG. ANY DUST SHOULD BE CONTAINED IN A SEALED AND LABELED BAG FOR DISPOSAL. WEAR AN APPROVED HIGH EFFICIENCY CARTRIDGE OR AIR LINE RESPIRATOR AND USE EXTRA CAUTION TO AVOID BREATHING THIS DUST.

Remove the wheel (1007) and brake drum.

Pull back the boots of the rear wheel cylinder (2261) and inspect for signs of leakage. Rear wheel cylinders that show evidence of leakage (water getting in past the boots or brake fluid leaking out) must be removed and repaired or replaced. Refer to Section 06-02.

If no leaks are found, install a brake cylinder clamp over the ends of the rear wheel cylinders.

Contract the rear brake shoes and linings (2200) as follows:

Disengage the brake shoe adjusting lever (2A176) from the brake adjuster screw (2041) by pulling backward on the brake shoe adjusting lever cable (2A178).
Shorten the length of the brake adjuster screw by screwing the threaded rod in. This is done by moving the outward side of the brake adjuster screw upward until the pivot nut is backed off as far as it will go.
CAUTION: Note the color and position of each brake shoe adjusting screw spring (2049). They must be reassembled in same position.

Pull the brake shoe adjusting lever, brake shoe adjusting lever cable and brake shoe adjusting screw spring down and toward the rear to unhook the pivot hook from the large hole in the web of the rear brake shoe and lining. Do not pry the pivot hook out of the hole.

Remove the brake shoe adjusting screw spring and brake shoe adjusting lever.

Remove the secondary brake shoe retracting spring (2296) using a brake spring removal/installation tool. Using the same tool, remove the primary brake shoe retracting spring and unhook the cable anchor. Remove the brake shoe anchor pin guide plate (2028) (if equipped).

Remove the cable guide from the rear brake shoe and lining.

NOTE: Note the color and position of each brake shoe hold-down spring (2068). They must be reassembled in the same position.



Remove the brake shoe hold-down springs, rear brake shoes and linings, brake adjuster screw, pivot nut, and brake shoe adjusting screw socket (2048).

Remove the primary brake shoe parking brake lever link (2A642) and parking brake link spring (2A601). Disconnect the front parking brake cable and conduit (2853) from the parking brake lever (2A637).

Remove the secondary rear brake shoe and lining and disassemble the parking brake lever from the rear brake shoe and lining by removing the parking brake lever pin retainer (2106) and spring washer.

Spring Replacement, Typical see h4963e


see h8817c
Item Part Number Description
1 2028 Brake Shoe Anchor Pin Guide Plate
2 � Anchor Pin (Part of 2211)
3 2261 Rear Wheel Cylinder
4 351467-S Washer
5 2296 Brake Shoe Retracting Spring
6 2200 Rear Brake Shoe and Lining, Secondary
7 2A179 Cable Guide
8 2A178 Brake Shoe Adjusting Lever Cable
9 2A637 Parking Brake Lever
10 2049 Brake Shoe Adjusting Screw Spring
11 � Pivot Hook (Part of 2A176)
12 2A635 Parking Brake Rear Cable and Conduit
13 2A176 Brake Shoe Adjusting Lever
14 2041 Brake Adjuster Screw
15 � Parking Brake Cable Housing Retainer
(Part of 2A635)
16 2200 Rear Brake Shoe and Lining, Primary
17 2A642 Primary Brake Shoe Parking Brake Lever Link
18 2068 Brake Shoe Hold-Down Spring
19 2A601 Parking Brake Link Spring



Installation

Clean the ledge pads on the brake backing plate (2211). Sand lightly to bare metal.

Apply a light coating of high temperature lithium-base grease such as Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or -K or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B or Disc Brake Caliper Slide Grease D7AZ-19590-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C172-A at the points where the rear brake shoes and linings touch the brake backing plate. Also lubricate the adjusting cable eye and the anchor pin area.

Before installing the rear brake shoes and linings, assemble the parking brake lever on the rear brake shoes and linings and secure with the spring washer and parking brake lever pin retainer.

Position the rear brake shoes and linings on the brake backing plate, and install the brake shoe hold-down spring pins (2069), brake shoe hold-down springs, and brake shoe hold-down spring cups (2066).

Install the primary brake shoe parking brake lever link, parking brake link spring and washer.

Connect the parking brake cable to the parking brake lever.

Install the brake shoe anchor pin guide plate, if equipped, and place the cable anchor over the anchor pin with the crimped side toward the brake backing plate.

Install the primary brake shoe retracting spring using a brake spring removal/installation tool.

CAUTION: Make sure the brake shoe adjusting lever cable is positioned in the groove, and not between the guide and the web of the rear brake shoe and lining.

Install the cable guide on the secondary rear brake shoe and lining with the flanged hole fitted into the hole in the secondary rear brake shoe and lining.

Thread the brake shoe adjusting lever cable around the cable guide groove.

CAUTION: Install the brake adjuster screw in the same location from which it was removed. Interchanging the brake adjuster screws from one side of the vehicle to the other will cause the rear brake shoes and linings to retract rather than expand each time the automatic adjusting mechanism is operated.

NOTE: To prevent incorrect installation, the socket end of each brake adjuster screw is stamped with R or L to indicate their installation on the right or left side of the vehicle. The brake shoe adjusting screw nuts (2047) can be distinguished by the number of lines machined around the body of the brake shoe adjusting screw nut. Two lines indicate a right-hand brake shoe adjusting screw nut; one line indicates a left-hand brake shoe adjusting screw nut.



NOTE: Another way to identify brake adjuster screws is to check thread pitch. The right side brake adjuster screw has right-hand threads while the left side brake adjuster screw has left-hand threads. The brake adjuster screw will also increase in length when the lever is operated, if properly installed.



Install the secondary (long) brake shoe retracting spring. Make sure the cable end is not cocked or binding on the anchor pin when installed. All parts should be flat on the anchor pin. Remove the brake cylinder clamp.

Apply Disc Brake Caliper Slide Grease D7AZ-19590-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C172-A to the threads and the socket end of the brake adjuster screw. Turn the brake shoe adjusting screw into the brake shoe adjusting screw nut to the end of the threads and then loosen it one-half turn.

Place the brake shoe adjusting screw socket on the brake adjuster screw and install the assembly between the ends of the rear brake shoes and linings with the brake adjuster screw nearest the secondary brake shoe adjusting screw nut.

Hook the cable hook into the hole in the brake shoe adjusting lever from the outboard plate side. The brake shoe adjusting levers are also stamped with an R or L to indicate their installation on the right- or left-hand brake.



Brake Adjuster Screw and Brake Shoe Adjusting Lever Kit, Rear, F-150 and Bronco
see image h4964d
Item Part Number Description
1 2A176 Brake Shoe Adjusting Lever
2 372583-S Washer
3 2048 Brake Shoe Adjusting Screw Socket
4 � Knurled Nut (Part of 2041)
5 2041 Brake Adjuster Screw
6 � Identification Lines
(Part of 2047)
7 2047 Brake Shoe Adjusting Screw Nut

Place the hooked end of the brake shoe adjusting screw spring in the large hole in the web of the primary rear brake shoe and lining. Connect the loop end of the brake shoe adjusting screw spring to the hole of the brake shoe adjusting lever.

Pull the brake shoe adjusting lever, brake shoe adjusting lever cable and brake shoe adjusting screw spring down toward the rear to engage the pivot hook in the large hole in the web of the secondary rear brake shoe and lining.

Check the action of brake adjuster screw by pulling brake shoe adjusting lever cable toward secondary rear brake shoe and lining, activating brake shoe adjusting lever. Brake shoe adjusting levers should snap in behind the next tooth of brake adjuster screw. Release brake shoe adjusting lever cable to return brake shoe adjusting lever to original position and the brake adjuster screw should turn one notch.

If pulling the brake shoe adjusting lever cable does not produce the action described, or if lever action is sluggish instead of positive and sharp, check the position of the lever on the adjusting screw toothed wheel. With the brake in a vertical position (anchor at the top), the lever should contact the adjusting wheel one tooth above the centerline of the adjusting screw. If the contact point is below this centerline, the lever will not lock on the teeth in the adjusting screw wheel, and the screw will not be turned as the lever is actuated by the cable.

Install the brake drum and wheel.

Restore parking brake cable tension by pulling the pin inserted into the parking brake control.
see h4964d
Check parking brake operation.

Test brake system for normal operation
 

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Sounds to me that the sheath around the parking brake cable has rusted to the cable, a common problem up here in the north. (Up here when you apply the parking brake and it doesn't release, you spend the next hour or two with a hacksaw cutting off the cable to release it.
I don't know if they make stainless steel parking brake cables, but if you can find some, they'd be worth the peace of mind that the parking brake will release. (I found them for my '77 Corvette years ago.)

Good luck
 

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im having the same issue, my parking brake is very tight, the pedal hardly goes down, and when I release it, the brakes don't release all the way.

So I quit using the p-brake. But, now randomly, my wheels lock up with very slight pressure on the pedal.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Rebel, I would try to readjust the brakes first. It sounds similar to mine in that the brakes adjusted out too far and are dragging. Try first to adjust them down so you can remove the drum and visually inspect them for movement or impingement. Clean them well, adjust and lube according to the instruction Miesk posted(Thanks Again Bro.) Then see if that helps or resolves the problem. Take a day with your Chiltons/Haynes manual and just relax and work through the system and see what you find and repair/adjust accordingly as you move along.
 

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Disassemble the brakes and start over by cleaning/striping the entire backing plate of any brake dust etc. with brake parts cleaner, smooth out those "high spots" with a metal file or dremmel/grinder where the brake shoes rest, grease them with anti-seize so the shoe/s will expand and contract better and clean/ AS-lube the star key adjuster threads, 6th diagram H4964D and also look at the "points" on the key where they can wear down making it difficult to turn/adjust with a brake spoon, replace if need.

Look at the side of the brake shoes to see if there is any shoe material "overlap" on the curved metal and file it away so the shoes rests correctly on the backing plate....replace any parts that don't look like they're up to the task.....after it's all back together sandpaper up the shoe surface to remove any grease or contaminent and I'd even sand the drum inside a little to help seat the shoes in nicely.

Make sure the self adjuster cable, 5th diagram #7 right side is hooked up correctly or you will have parking brake , self adjust problems, maybe put a little grease on the end of that pb cable that comes thru the backing plate so it slides easier there, 5th diagram # 12 & 15.

Re-adjust brakes and you should be good to go!

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Just curious about the cable. Is the black plastic cover that's visible on the adjustment end something that travels the entire length of the cable down to or close to where it exits out at the brake drum? I'm speculating about what might have happened to the cable was that the plastic covering may have melted inside and frozen the cable in place. Then and only when I really place a lot of force on the parking brake does the cable actually move slightly. Only problem is, it doesn't retract when I release the brake. I've got a new Wagner line on order and I'll dissect the old cable then to see.

I was wondering about that in the beginning seeing as how it happened after I drove it for a few miles at highway speeds and the rear exhaust of the muffler was blowing hot air right on the cable(and the axle now that I think about it). Just a thought. I'll update it when I get it apart.
 
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