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Discussion Starter #1
After some research, I feel convinced that a $370 MSD isn't worth it for a 195k mile, with new 0 mile mild '94 351W build that will never see more than 5500RPM. I'm guessing 260HP at the flywheel.
I'd rather take that $370 and buy an Amazon aluminum radiator with full electric fan baffle.
Which really is the same price.

The '94 distributor has the external TFI module.
And everybody on the board keeps talking about replacing the MSD PIP with a Motorcraft.
So that has me thinking, why not just "rebuild" my distributor?

What all parts would I need, other than the basic maintenance like rotor and cap?
Btw, speaking of those two, when I recently replaced them, I put dialectic grease on them.
And when I removed them after just a couple months, that grease looked like turd.

So what parts do I need to rebuild the '94 distributor?

Summit search has never heard of a "PIP".
Google says it would be a camshaft position sensor, but Autozone search says I don't have one of those?
 

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YoEddie,

I'm calling @BigBlue 94
He should be here soon with info on new distibutors fro Ford dealers.

Or seek a local automotive electrical repair shop. Back in the day, in most cities there were shops with the Sun distributor testers. The mechanics would come out and remove the distributor, make changes where needed, then curve it according to customer requirements, and install it. With TFI, they moved on to test the PIP with a Snap On Vantage Oscilloscope while PIP was heated up with use of a hair dryer.

Tips:
TFI Tester
This is a TFI tester. Don’t expect a wonder tool for diagnosis of intermittent TFI problems. This tool will only show a completely failed module or a TFI that will start a vehicle. I haven’t seen any TFI testers that will show a partly failed or intermediate problem. You connect a 9-volt battery and the TFI in question. Then you touch the yellow clip to the Stator pins. An LED will come on if it’s a “good” TFI and no light if it’s failed.
A better test is to check the fuel pump relay when cranking the engine over. Not the 2 second run after the key is turned on, but while cranking the engine. If the fuel pump relay kicks on when cranking, the TFI & Stator are good.
Source: by Ryan M


"CAUTION: Do not attempt to replace stator, aka PIP without an arbor press.
Inspect distributor housing bushing for wear or signs of excess heat concentration. Replace complete distributor if damaged. miesk5 Note, research commercial availability
Inspect distributor housing for cracks and wear. Replace complete distributor if damaged.
Inspect distributor housing O-ring for cuts or damage and replace O-ring if necessary.
See more info in
Section 03-07A: Ignition, Distributor
1996 F-Series and Bronco with Gasoline Engines Workshop Manual​
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
Stator
SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED
Description​
Tool Number​
Axle Bearing/Seal Plate​
@ 1996 Bronco/F-Series

Member OMP advised "Have you taken the dizzy cap off, inspected internals, make sure there is nothing loose sitting inside, or the hall pickup sensor is on secure with that small screw. Does the shaft feel unusually lose, can you move it up/down more than a few thousands.

"How to replace an Ignition Pickup (PIP aka Stator ) Sensor by 66WarPony @ How to replace an Ignition Pickup (PIP) Sensor

"Ford gear-type distributors.
Replacement units installed in new or remanufactured engines
experience distributor or cam gear failure.
Failure to pre-lube distributor gear, prime oil pump, possible mismatch
of gear and camshaft material, or inadequate oil pressure.
Before installing distributor, lube distributor gear with grease and
prime oil pump. Prime pump by using a drill with an intermediate shaft
from an oil pump attached. Operate drill in a clock-wise direction until
oil pressure develops. Or disable engine so it won't start then crank in
short intervals until oil pressure develops.
• Do not tap starter or crank engine to position gear teeth.
• After installation check for up and down play of distributor shaft
(must be between .015 and .030).
• Check camshaft endplay for proper specification.
• If cam is changed it is very important that cam and gear material
match. Steel distributor gears must only be used with roller
camshafts, cast iron distributor gears only with cast iron camshafts." by Cardonr

Following by Ford;
153469

153470
 

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Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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94 distributor would have a part number of F4TE-12127-(××)
Or the service part number of F4TZ-12127-(xx)

I searched 4 obsolete ford parts dealers with no luck. I'm not very versed in the internals of any distributor.

@BikerPepe` Has done a bit of PIP stuff I believe.
 

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'95 XLT: 5.8/MAF/E4OD/6" lift/4.56's/33x12.5x15
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Not really. The PIP sensor broke in my distributor when a new motorcraft rotor tip flew apart at 80 mph but rather than rebuild, I replaced the distributor and moved on.
Ordered Part # F4TE 12127-AA from Lakeland Ford (phone: 877.631.3918) for $138.65 but that's for my '95, 351W, MAF, etc.

I do remember they had some issue with the part number not matching up with the rig but I insisted, after verifying the number off of my existing distributor with them, that was what had worked before and that was what I wanted to replace it with, computer VIN number check be damned. It took a bit but they sent it and it's worked just fine.
 

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85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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Ah I just remembered something about you messing with the PIP.

It appears no one carries new motorcraft ones anymore
 

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Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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Oh and BTW I know of a guy you can send it to that can repair and tune it, with a Sun machine. His name is Bill Ambler and resides over on the fordsix forum. Screen name is wsa111. [email protected] or [email protected]
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks guys. But it's not a dead distributor.
It was working when pulled for my engine rebuild.
I was just wondering/assuming there were internals that will wear out and I could just swap them with new internals before re-installing.
 

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85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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11,157 Posts
Thanks guys. But it's not a dead distributor.
It was working when pulled for my engine rebuild.
I was just wondering/assuming there were internals that will wear out and I could just swap them with new internals before re-installing.
I'm sure there are internals you can replace, but I dont know enough about them to say what. I know @AbandonedBronco had some of the parts in his DUI HEI wear out very quickly. It was something to do with the timing advance weights.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Does the '94 351W distributor have a PIP somewhere?
I can't figure out what/where it is.

I know older dizzys have it.
 

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Yo Eddie,
Stator, aka(Profile Ignition Pick-up (PIP), Hall Effect

153510

ItemPart NumberDescription
1388483-S2Screw (2 Req'd)
2Armature (Rotary Vane) (Part of 12127)
3Shaft Assembly (Part of 12127)
4N801293-S36➡ Stator Screw
➡5➡Stator (Hall Effect Vane Switch Assembly) (Part of 12127)
6Octane Rod (Part of 12127)
7Base Assembly (Part of 12127)
8O-Ring (Part of 12127)
9Thrust Washer (4.9L) (Part of 12127)
10Roll Pin (Part of 12127)
11Gear (Part of 12127)
12Collar (Part of 12127)

○⊙○
E9TZ12A112A
This part fits the vehicle you selected:

1994 Ford Bronco

8 Cyl 5.0L; 4-Speed Automatic Transmission E4OD
Ford Part No.: E9TZ-12A112-A
Stator Assembly
Ford E9TZ-12A112-A Stator Assembly

Base No.12A112
Part DescriptionStator Assy
With remote TFI module
ManufacturerFord. This genuine Ford part is guaranteed by Ford's factory warranty.
Your Price: $42.37
Retail Price: $69.98
You Save: $27.61
@
 

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Discussion Starter #11
My dizzy


Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Very helpful, Meisk. I never even thought to look up a microfische on it.
 

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Cz, the only replaceable part in your distributor is #5 (per the micro. )Rock auto carries these stators.#8,9,10,11,12 have to be removed( not in that order)and 123 is removed from the top.(Do not try and remove 1 and 2 from each other.) using a puller to remove the vane will result in destroying it.
I have a Msd for my 1992, and inside it ,there is a bearing. #1622 - That’s the Difference than your stock no bearing) along with the billiet design .Msd uses the motorcraft stator and it can be replaced. Yep MSD is costly . Check you tube,I think there’s a video on rebuilding it . Also #11 gear is either steel or cast iron ,per your application Good luck TR
 

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I recently replaced my pickup and put everything back together. Not hard to do, just got to be careful not to break anything and take your time. While mine was apart, I cleaned everything really well with a green scotchbrite, etc., lubed #3 with bearing grease upon reassembly and have been good to go. I have a couple of spare complete distributors I snagged from the yard cheap that I'm probably going to clean/rebuild and either keep as spares or sell...
 

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I'm late but will chime in. As for your first question, a full rebuild would mean the bushings, gear, and shaft (if worn) as well as PIP sensor. I have replaced a PIP sensor before. The distributor was in good shape so replacing it for one failed part made no sense. A press is the safest and easiest way but I was able to do it without it. You need ot drive the roll pin out of the gear, then drive the gear off the shaft. Remove shaft and reluctor, replace PIP, and reassemble. Hardest part is getting the gear driven back on so the hole for the roll pin lines back up. You have to be careful not to damage anything when driving things apart/together. I Got the PIP from Napa, don't remember the name, In fact I think the owner of the truck picked it up.
 
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