[newageroman]

Disclaimer: I did search on remove/replace grill/grille with all combos and found nothing. Also I LOVE the automatic search when posting a new thread. Thats a great idea! Also the haynes manual just says remove them without any illustrations/explanations.

So, every time I go home, I try to pull some parts off the old green 78 that was crushed by a tree during tornado, to put on the new blue 78 that I'm semi-daily driving now. One of the things on the old green one that was still in amazing shape was the bumper/grill/pushbar. I got the pushbar & bumper off and stored a while ago. now on to the Grill that I thougt would be easy breezy. I don't like about the new bronco is the bumper/grill. The PO hacked the aluminum grill and put on a heavy steel bumper for a winch (which I don't have and wont need for a while.)

Whats the best way to get at the outer grill shell bolts that tie to the front fenders?

IIRC, there were 2 bolts on each side. It looked like you needed to go in through the inside fenderwell, or need some REALLY long extentsions or something. If need be I can just cut a hole in the fender for access, but I'd really like practice taking it off the old truck so I know how to put it on the newer one without messing it up. I got all the easy ones in the engine bay and around the headlights, removed the headlight bezels.ect... But the sides are throwing me for a loop.

Hope all is well with you guys. keep the rubber side down

 

[472SCJ]

I would remove the rubber inner fender liner and get some extensions and have at it....just that simple

 

[Shane C.]

I would remove the rubber inner fender liner and get some extensions and have at it....just that simple

Yup. You have to access them from inner fender... there are 4 bolts on each side. One is way up on the top and is kind of tough to see...

 

[miesk5]

yo,
Parts Break-Out Diagram in a 78 w/Nomenclature
Source: by Indybronco (Lula Mae)

 

[Stonewater]

Yup. You have to access them from inner fender... there are 4 bolts on each side. One is way up on the top and is kind of tough to see...

x2. Those bolts way up high are hidden extremely well.

 

[472SCJ]

x2. Those bolts way up high are hidden extremely well.

if you remove the side marker light as well ,this will allow some light up there so you can see them better

 

[newageroman]

Thanks guys, I'll see about these bolts. Wish the parts truck was closer, most of the time it's more fun than watching TV...

 

[brandcole73]

have any luck? I just took mine apart to get ready for an engine swap. I used an electric ratchet/drill with long extensions. PITA! I did take the marker lights out too and it helps getting a little light in there.

 

[newageroman]

no luck yet. Ive still been away from the parts truck, hopefully this weekend. I don't know what I did to whoever, but my bronco is quit on me and left me stranded at work :banghead.

It smells/acts flooded, but I did get it to eventually start, gently pumping half throttle. My cheby guy says it is prolly plugs. so I get to do that tomorrow. thank you! gives me time to catch up on some good reading though!

Good stuff here on FSB and also thumbing through the latest bronco driver mag that has articles on a few things I hope to do soon relays, NP205 rebuild, D44 suspension.

Well, hope you guys have a muddy 4th!:rockon

 

[newageroman]

got her fixed! when installing the first plug noticed that the battery terminal ground wire was loose. tightened and all is good. funny thing is it had enough juice to turn over and over for a while, but not enough to get the coil enough power.

Also found out a tip on repairing plug wires. A little grease or lube when pulling them through the boot helps tremendously! I messed one up when pulling it off, and the local parts store wanted 16$ for one wire, so I was able to fix that.

later! happy 4th!

 

[miesk5]

yo NEWAGEROMAN,
Great!

btw Ford and shops recommend using
Ford Silicone Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectric Compound
Provides high voltage seal to secondary ignition wires
Suppresses voltage leaks by coating inner distributor cap surface
Part Number XG-3-A 3 oz.

or use spec ESE-M1C171-A


and see TSB 98-24-6 New Electrical Terminal Grease
Add the new grease during electrical connection repair.

ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR GREASE SHOULD NOT BE USED IN HIGH VOLTAGE CONNECTIONS FOR SPARK PLUG AND COIL WIRE APPLICATIONS.

PROPER USES OF THE NEW ELECTRICAL GREASE INCLUDE:
Electrical Connectors
Battery Connections
Light Sockets
Starter Terminals

DO NOT USE ON:
Spark Plug Wires
Coil Wires
Spark Plug-to-Coil Connections
Low Current Flow Switches (12V Systems less than 0.1 amp)
FORD Electrical Grease Lubricates and protects electrical connectors; Provides a non-corrosive film for electrical switches and contacts. Protects connector metals from oxidation and corrosion; XG-12; Specification Number WSB-M1C239-A, 3 oz.

 

[newageroman]

Got the Grill! now I need some chillidogs!

Got the grill off finally thanks for the helpful posts! Removed the inner fender wells to get at the remaining bolts. Removing the side blinkers to get some light/socket access also helped. Also make sure when you get on the bolt to angle the socket the same as the leading edge of the front fender(point it down to the ground about 20 degrees or so). I couldn't get on them good until I did this. Only got about half of them out, the other half of them snapped the rusty old clips, so I had to get some help with those.

First we tried visegrips to keep the threaded clip part from spinning around and around while breaking them loose. That proved annoying, so we broke out the airt tool cutter wheel and grinded off just a bit of one side of the threaded part of the clip. This heated up the clip (expansion) and provided a relief cut, and they were gone(no need to cut all the way through the entire bolt).

Rebuild quesion: When I get ready to put this grill on the good bronco, would you guys suggest staying with the clip style, or just replacing them with regular nuts/bolts? I feel this wouldn't have been a big issue if they were regular nuts/bolts because there was access to them.

By the way: thanks for the tip on the battery connection grease, I'll check that out. I've also heard about smearing vasaline all over the thing once connected to keep the escaping battery gases from corroding the connectors. Also some shove a penny under the connector so the gases will corrode it first and not the connector. I have a neighbor that is gonna help me clean up the wiring sometime soon, which will be a relief.

Next up on the parts bronco is rear bumper & steering column.
thx/later!

 

[Stonewater]

The steering column shouldn't pose any problems if I remember correctly.

The rear bumper is straight forward. Just a handful of bolts. But, the majority of mine snapped off. Even with a few days worth of PB Blast.

 

[miesk5]

Rebuild quesion: When I get ready to put this grill on the good bronco, would you guys suggest staying with the clip style, or just replacing them with regular nuts/bolts? I feel this wouldn't have been a big issue if they were regular nuts/bolts because there was access to them.
yo,
I'd use alum or ss bolts and nuts; I think the grille is alum? I forget!
If plastic, use alum


By the way: thanks for the tip on the battery connection grease, I'll check that out. I've also heard about smearing vasaline all over the thing once connected to keep the escaping battery gases from corroding the connectors. Also some shove a penny under the connector so the gases will corrode it first and not the connector. I have a neighbor that is gonna help me clean up the wiring sometime soon, which will be a relief.

yw,
I use the red and black felt washers; about $1.00 at wally mart; got some for free from a friendly Interstate Battery store owner 2 yrs ago.
In a late model yard Ford; look for the plastic batt cable/post hinged covers that can be opened to inspect terminals & posts.

QUOTE]

Also see Cable Soldering
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=94186

Terminals, Late-Model OE-style pic; "...The "lead-free" description is misleading. The other solder-on terminals are also lead-free; they're brass or copper with a tin or silver-solder coating. But this style may be a better fix if the damaged terminal is this style since it can merely be unbolted & replaced (no soldering) if the original ring terminals are undamaged. If these new ring terminals must be soldered on, the wires should be cleaned & tinned (coated with fresh solder) first. Then these rings can be crimped on & soldered to the tinned wires..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/726315

Terminal, Solder-On Battery Procedure
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net http://www.supermotors.net/registry/2742/69178

 

[bigzirb]

Glad you got them out. I cheated and did it with my fenders off, but I was rehanging the fenders to adjust my gaps to the doors and hood anyway. I reused the clip nuts puting it back together, but would use stainless if you had rust issues and have to replace them.