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Discussion Starter #1
Whoever had the truck before me had an alarm system installed and a bunch of the wures are cut so i wanted to remove the whole system because it doesn't work and i want to clean it up. I'm scared of whuch wires to cut. At first i thought i could cut everything linked to the alarm but now i don't know. It seems the wires from the alarm got into the factory harness. If anyone who understands alarm system can try to figure this out i could really use the help.
Heres the overall system.




Heres the harness I'm scared to tinker with
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Also the headlight harness looks like this
 

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That harness you are afraid to mess with is probably for the door lock actuator. Since it has a relay, it has some draw, so that would be my guess.

The only real issue is going to be a starter interrupt from the alarm. The Ford color is blue / red for the start wire. If you don't want to trace all the wires, you should probably be able to just unplug the connector at the back of the alarm and it should be "ok".
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It doesn't matter what brand the alarm system/radio/etc. is, or how many wires it has; this process will work:

Follow each aftermarket wire (ONE at a time) to where it's spliced to an original truck wire.
- If the splice is a "T" (tap), then try to remove all the aftermarket wire from the truck harness and repair the original wire so it can't break internally, or short externally. If it's soldered or crimped, just cut the aftermarket wire as close as possible to the original, and tape it up securely.
- If the splice is inline (original wire cut & 2 aftermarket wires spliced to the 2 ends), separate the splices & reconnect the original wire as it was before. Butt crimp splices are usually perfect for this since they don't require overlapping (shortening) the original wire, and you can use insulated butts.
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/862995

Buy a new headlight connector pigtail, throw away the terminals that come with it, and transfer each original UNCUT wire to the new connector shell. For the one that's toasted: if it can't be cleaned (nail file, slivers of sandpaper, etc.) and crimped slightly tighter, cut it off & splice on one of the replacements'. Use the one with the heaviest wire. If the switch terminal is too badly burned to clean & reuse, buy a switch. I recommend an OE from the JY, or a new MC from eBay or Amazon (if available).
Thanks brother. I followed each alarm wire back and cut tge wires out and also bought a headlight connector and transferred each wire over. The alarm had a wire going to the central burn area of the connector so i assume they were linked. By any chance do you know what causes connectors to burn like that?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
That harness you are afraid to mess with is probably for the door lock actuator. Since it has a relay, it has some draw, so that would be my guess.

The only real issue is going to be a starter interrupt from the alarm. The Ford color is blue / red for the start wire. If you don't want to trace all the wires, you should probably be able to just unplug the connector at the back of the alarm and it should be "ok".
And yeah it was for the door lock. Got it all cleaned up thanks.
 

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Poor circuit design. The circuit & its protection (fuse/link/CB) are oversized for a particular terminal. So the terminal burns at normal load, which means the protection doesn't burn out to prevent that. Exact same thing that causes 2G alternators to catch fire, and blower fuses to melt.
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/932348
Is it the alternator charge cable with fuse links that could be the cause of an alternator fire?
I have a 95 amp alternator but am using the 125 amp charge cable with two fuse links at the end. Would it be better/safer to change back to the smaller charge cable?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Poor circuit design. The circuit & its protection (fuse/link/CB) are oversized for a particular terminal. So the terminal burns at normal load, which means the protection doesn't burn out to prevent that. Exact same thing that causes 2G alternators to catch fire, and blower fuses to melt.
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/932348
So it would be much safer to run that aftermarket headlight harness that takes tge load off the switch?
 

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No, it's not the output wire, or the fusible links - they're at the opposite end from the 2G's dangerous terminals. It's the fact that Ford undersized the alt. output terminals for the alt's output capacity. The cable is irrelevant.Ford used the same cable for the 95A 3G and the 130A 3G (AND the 2G, other than the connector), so IDK what you mean by "smaller".
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/910523
I noticed that there is a smaller cable with one fuse link on 95 amp alt's and a larger cable with two fuse links on 125 alt's. This is based on what I have seen on cars and Explorers, which is what I have gotten my replacement cables from
 

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Every one I've ever seen (including the one in the '95 donor that I took my engine from, the '93 XLT that the body & frame came from, and the '93EB I'm rebuilding now) have a 2-fusible-link alternator harness. Some fusible link wires are heavier than others, so maybe you're seeing other vehicles' harnesses built differently. I only know about these trucks.
 
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