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Discussion Starter #1
I hope I am not dating myself too much with that title.

Anyways I am trying to remove the front brake rotors for replacement. I have been able to remove the brake caliper and the hub inner workings thanks to a instructions by a couple of other posters on this forum.

As far as I can tell the rotor and hub assembly should just slide off. I have tried pulling them off and they are not going anywhere. I tried to pursuade them by gently hitting them with a rubber mallet but still nothing.

Am I being a sissy and not putting enough power behind the rubber mallet or did I miss a mystery bolt.

Here are the online instructions that have been helpful in getting me this far:
(Steve83)http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/detail.php?id=2742&s=12739#content
(Trucky18)http://www.supermotors.org/clubs/superford/vehicles/registry/detail.php?id=3749&s=14884#content

Here is a picture of the hub emptied of all the stuff I could pull out of it. The hub is a 96 automatic locking hub with the 3 torx screw pattern:
 

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It appears that the final thin washer is still in there just before the splines on the spindle. Make sure that there isn't anything left in there. Feel around with a small pick on that shiny disc to make sure it isn't a washer. the rotor should come off fairly easy.
 

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Have you got all of these parts out?



Particularly all of the little thrust washers in the bottom right of the picture?
 

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They call me "MR FLAT TIRE"
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doesn't look like you have removed the wheel bearing nuts yet...

a BFH (no matter how big) cant touch that.
 

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Lick my balls
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You shouldn't have to hammer your rotor off. If the 1 or sometimes 2 nuts are removed, than it should just slide right off.
 

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that looks to me like the surcface of the outer wheel bearing...is there play now in the rotor and hub assembly???
i had a bad wheel bearing partially fuse to the spindle...if you can wiggle it and it moves then you ae gonna have to wiggle/beat it off..
mine wouldnt pull off just like you have explained..

make sure now that the hub is out both 4 tooth nuts and the washer are out..it looks like they are so prepare to beat it...

and go buy some wheel bearings...search in the tech section for brakes and you will see my write-up...everything you need is there

dc
 

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Lick my balls
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Steve83 said:
It DOES take a hammer eventually (but he's not at that point yet), and the rotor DOESN'T slide off without a hammer or press. :twak
I'm referring to the hub rotor assembly. Once the last bolt was removed, I've never, ever needed to hammer it off. I just pull gently and it comes off, every time.
 

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the c-clip would prevent the hub from coming out...which is all ready out...what you are seeing there appears to be the spindle...i think hes ready to pull it...its just stuck

grease doesnt looik great in there...ill put my bet behind my words and say hammert for the wheel bearing

dc
 

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FSB warrior
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I had to tug on mine 3x like a slide hammer and then it popped off. Mine welded the outer nut to the spindle.

Nice way to be specific Steve.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I took in all the advice and rechecked all the parts that had come out of the hub already. I was short a c-clip (#11) and a wheel retainer nut (#21). I did a lot of research on how to remove that nut and eventually got it using a 2-1/2" round hex wheel bearing socket shown below:


After removing the nut the rotor and hub assembly slide right off with out any force. The outer wheel bearing also easily came out at this time. Here is a photo of my wheel nut from my 96:


I then got a hammer and a punch and knocked the inner wheel bearing out:


After that I sprayed the 5 bolts conecting the rotor and hub assembly with some liquid wrench and proceeded to beat the snot out of them until they dislodged. I am not sure if you are supposed to do this but I continued to hit the bolts down into the ABS gear thing until it finally came loose.

FINALLY I have the rotor and hub seperated! Thank you for the help
 

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when yiur ready to put the tonering back on, put it in the oven at like 150 for 30 min. Itll drop right on.
 

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I've used a tapping method on the lugs (evenly of course) to remove and tone ring twice and not had it break. I think that I'm just lucky though. I'll try putting it in the oven next time I'm reinstalling one. I've been lucky just tapping them back in too.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Just wanted to let you know that i did put the toner rings in the oven for 20 minutes at 170 (as low as it would go). The toner rings went back on with minimal effort and a rubber mallet. Thanks for the advice, it worked great.

Since I always insist on including large photos in all my posts to inspire dial-up users to get broad-band... here is a photo of the toner ring back on and the seal in place:

 
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