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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I removed all the bolts, 12 total. I can get a screwdriver under there and the intake moves up a little, and back and forth a little, like as if it's ready to lift off, it just won't come up and out. I was thinking I had to remove the stock oil press. send unit to let it silde back far enough, but even that is a bitch to remove. Any suggestions?
 

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It will be a lot easier if you remove the dizzy and oil pressure sending unit. If you cant get the dizzy out you might be able to slide the intake back enough to clear the cap by removing just the sending unit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It will be a lot easier if you remove the dizzy and oil pressure sending unit. If you cant get the dizzy out you might be able to slide the intake back enough to clear the cap by removing just the sending unit.
Yeah. I am fighting the dizzy now, so I just wanted to make some progress by taking the intake off. I might have to drop the pan and do it that way. You ever had to do that? Any special tools I need? And Also, how does the oil press. sending unit come out? Will taking that out help with removal of the intake?
 

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You mean drop the pan and punch out the dizzy? You can do that, just be carefull not to destroy it. I would try heat first at the base. IIRC my oil pressure sending unit was able to be turned out by hand. There is no nut on them so you might want to just use channel locks with rubber tips.
 

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Look again at yours Brad. All OP senders have a 12 point hex on it. If yours does not have a hex there is something wrong with it. Nobody is going to make an OPS that does not have any means of putting a wrench or socket on it to tighten it up. Hand tightened fittings just don't cut it.


Wait did you mean round or "rounded off" from the channel locks?

In fact you know I just had to pull mine off to swap the sender for the Dakota gauges and IIRC you could use a 7/16" wrench on the lower part of it.
 

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Just got off my ass to go check. I was wrong, it does have a 5/8 6 point hex, but its on the bottom side where the unit threads into the block. There is no way you could get a socket on top to unthread it cause the housing is all round the way it was made.
 

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Yep, that socket I posted could be for a later model. IIRC I had a bitch of a time getting a wrench on mine when I did the gauge swap. Seems the firewall was in the way of getting a good angle on the OPS.
 

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Heres mine. Again I was wrong, not 5/8 but 9/16. And yes I just pulled it off my motor for you're viewing pleasure.

 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
You mean drop the pan and punch out the dizzy? You can do that, just be carefull not to destroy it. I would try heat first at the base. IIRC my oil pressure sending unit was able to be turned out by hand. There is no nut on them so you might want to just use channel locks with rubber tips.
I'm changing the dizzy anyways, so I don't care about damage. You mean apply heat to the base of the dizzy where it meets the block? I can use a pipe wrench and turn the dizzy, I just can't get any upwards force on it. I have one of those blue butane torches, but i'm guessing i'm gonna need something like oxy/acetalene?
 

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Heres mine. Again I was wrong, not 5/8 but 9/16. And yes I just pulled it off my motor for you're viewing pleasure.

Ahh yes, so was I wrong. That sending unit socket must be for later models:scratchhe

After seeing the pic I now remember when I took mine off how hard it was to get a wrench in there to undo it. I ended up snapping the bell off and put a socket on it to get it out.
 

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Ahh yes, so was I wrong. That sending unit socket must be for later models:scratchhe

After seeing the pic I now remember when I took mine off how hard it was to get a wrench in there to undo it. I ended up snapping the bell off and put a socket on it to get it out.
You had me thinking it might have been another 78-79 difference between the two sending units, or I had a poorly designed aftermarket unit.
 
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