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Chicks dig my
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Discussion Starter #1
Got a leak in the oil pan seal so I gotta replace that by dropping the pan. While its off should I also replace the oil pump? Its got 107,000 miles but plenty of oil pressure and runs just fine. Thanks for your opinions:beer
 

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so if he throws a bad pump in and has to take it apart again he is screwed...if it works id leave it...just my opinion...plus its a bitch while the motor is in the truck unless you can get the pan all the way out...

btw 2 bolts and the bolt for the pickup total 3

dc
 

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Lick my balls
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If you already have good oil pressure...just flip a coin
 

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green ones make me horny
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it is up to you not us. i think if you have the money you should replace everything in there. tube, pump, screen. it is a pain in the ass to do.

or you can do what i did. get tired of replacing and cleaning screens and get a new engine
 

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Back in TEXAS
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Here's what I would do. Throw some sea foam in the oil, run it for about 100 miles, drop the pan, change the screen and pump while doing the oil pan seal and keep the old pump for a backup. In the end its up to you.
 

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Rest in Peace Friend...
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If you're jacking up the engine to just change the pan gasket, you don't have to unbolt the oil pump. But in order to get the pan out and clean off the old gasket, you usually have to drop the oil pump and pick-up tube into the pan to get the pan out from under the engine, since the crossmember is in the way. In that case, I would install a new pump since the old one is being unbolted. At the very least, remove the pick-up tube and clean it thoroughly. With 100+K miles, it may have some sludge build-up inside that will soon starve your new or old oil pump. I've had a few 351W motors die from this condition.
 

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I changed the pump when I changed my pan...it was nol 50 bucks and i got a high flow one. Its worth 50 bucks to not have to do that again.
 

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DcSkater602 said:
so if he throws a bad pump in and has to take it apart again he is screwed...if it works id leave it...just my opinion...plus its a bitch while the motor is in the truck unless you can get the pan all the way out...

btw 2 bolts and the bolt for the pickup total 3

dc
I supposed you'd leave the old timing set in the engine if you had the front cover off, too? After all, if they're working, leave 'em in, right? Oil pumps NEVER wear out, do they? :scratchhe

If it were mine, I'd replace the pump and go a step further and drop a couple main caps to check the bearings as well. It's a great time to see if you're due for an overhaul.
 

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Larston said:
I supposed you'd leave the old timing set in the engine if you had the front cover off, too? After all, if they're working, leave 'em in, right? Oil pumps NEVER wear out, do they? :scratchhe

If it were mine, I'd replace the pump and go a step further and drop a couple main caps to check the bearings as well. It's a great time to see if you're due for an overhaul.

im just the kinda guy who has a perfectly running 302, with anew cranka nd oil pump and decides that since the motor mounts are blown...im gonan do a 5.8 swap w/ a full rebuild..:shrug ...makes sense to me for some reason:wacko i still haven't understood the saying "IF IT AINT BROKE DONT FIX IT!"

if you have the money and the mechanical ability i agree fully what larston says...if you dont know what your doing i would leave it or start learning...go to the write up about oil pumps in the tech section to get a basis of what you getting into..but if you dont know what your doing i would leave it bc believe it or not oil is rather important:thumbup

dc
 

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green ones make me horny
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DcSkater602 said:
im just the kinda guy who has a perfectly running 302, with anew cranka nd oil pump and decides that since the motor mounts are blown...im gonan do a 5.8 swap w/ a full rebuild..:shrug ...makes sense to me for some reason:wacko i still haven't understood the saying "IF IT AINT BROKE DONT FIX IT!"

if you have the money and the mechanical ability i agree fully what larston says...if you dont know what your doing i would leave it or start learning...go to the write up about oil pumps in the tech section to get a basis of what you getting into..but if you dont know what your doing i would leave it bc believe it or not oil is rather important:thumbup
dc

fvck that man. I didnt know what i was dloing when i did mine. and i can drop the pan and replace the screen in under an hour and you do not have to remove the pan to removie the oil pump. once you unbolt it it will come out of the front. it is just a pain in the ass to put back together cause of the distributor rod. and if you do it pay attention to where that thing goes, cause there is no mention of it in the haynes manual
 

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Discussion Starter #13
yeah I got a idea whats goin on and am very mechanically inclined. Its also not my daily driver so it doesn't hurt to have it down for a week or more. I'll glance at things once I drop the pan completely and go from there. Who wants to bet on how many bolts I break in the manifolds? Quick clue, no torch available :banghead but they are soaked with penetrant (seafoams to be exact):beer Thanks for the input:thumbup
 

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Goose said:
yeah I got a idea whats goin on and am very mechanically inclined. Its also not my daily driver so it doesn't hurt to have it down for a week or more. I'll glance at things once I drop the pan completely and go from there. Who wants to bet on how many bolts I break in the manifolds? Quick clue, no torch available :banghead but they are soaked with penetrant (seafoams to be exact):beer Thanks for the input:thumbup

ahh you shouldnt break any bolts on the intake manifold. just get you a 1/4 inch drive extension and a t 40 torx bit cause you will need it for the one bolt that is under the upper intake. on the exhaust i let mine soak in pb blaster for a few days and it was good to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I've got a 2" body lift so I'm gonna chance it and say that I dont have to take off the intake. I'll post up and say if it works out ok when I lift the motor. The bolts I was refering to were the exhast manifolds to Y-pipe, stupid studs are rustyand dont look pretty, thanks to the salt they use here all the time.
 

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green ones make me horny
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Goose said:
I've got a 2" body lift so I'm gonna chance it and say that I dont have to take off the intake. I'll post up and say if it works out ok when I lift the motor. The bolts I was refering to were the exhast manifolds to Y-pipe, stupid studs are rustyand dont look pretty, thanks to the salt they use here all the time.

yeah i dont think i would have had to take off the upper intake if i had a body lift either. but then again it may help.
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go vote for stangmata50l for fullsize of the month
 

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My 1991 popped a passenger exhaust manifold, just keeping soaking those bolts twice a day morning and night... with seafoam or PB..... I did then only had one bolt that even felt as though it was seized, one shot with a steel dowel and a small sledge on the head and it even came loose... soak and you will win.. i soaked for a week before I dug into the motor. also I used a 14MM socket on the bolts.... the y pipe screw it, snap em and pick up replacements at Napa or midas. they are cheap...
 

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Lick my balls
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Why unbolt the exhaust pipes at all? I didn't, and had no problems. You are only raising the motor a few inches
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I wondered the same waltman, but both the Haynes and Chiltons book says to do it. I haven't started this yet cause everything is not working out this weekend but I hope to start today. I may start by not unbolting the Y-pipe and see what hangs up. Thanks for the thought!
 
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