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VRESER, HVAC, FPR, Brake Booster, (+ my 1990 has one to the Vacuum Cruise Control & Cruise Reservoir, yours does not)

You will not see the Brake Booster vacuum Line on my Bronco as I have Electric Boost Brakes. The remaining ports are capped. Remember, some lines are main intake manifold vacuum lines and some are secondary vacuum from actuators.





 

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While replacing my factory lines with new silicone lines I found the "black" vacuum line from the charcoal canister in the rear of the intake manifold not attached to anything. From reading through this I'm assuming this is where the black hose should go to.

Now go back to the vacuum canister, and run a vacuum hose from the OTHER plug on the
canister(formerly black line) to the bottom port on the 2 solenoids for TAB\TAD. You will
need another "T" so that you can split the hose into 2 hoses, one for each solenoid.
Kind of hard to see in this pic, you can see the white tip of the T, but it'll make sense
when your doing it:

Is this correct?

And thanks to Booba and everyone else who has contributed to this thread. I have had some idle issues that I haven't been able to figure out. Hopefully replacing all the vacuum lines will cure those issues!
 

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The line from the charcoal filter is for fuel vapor from the tank. It uses fuel resistant rubber and goes to the Cannister Purge Soelnoid (CANP).







A vacuum from comes from the Intake Manifold tee, to the coffee can vacuum reservoir and then goes out the can to the bottom of the solenoids in parallel. Then the top line on the solenoids go out to the TAB/TAD/EGR.








Here is my 1990 5.8L VECI Label. You should have on under your hood.

 

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Looking at your pic.s it looks as if you didn't replace your vac lines from the intake manifold to the coffee can. Any reason not to change these along with the other lines?
Huh?


Vacuum Tree to both Vacuum Reservoirs



Emmisions/EGR Vacuum Reservoir



Cruise Control Vacuum Reservoir
 

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A vacuum from comes from the Intake Manifold tee, to the coffee can vacuum reservoir and then goes out the can to the bottom of the solenoids in parallel. Then the top line on the solenoids go out to the TAB/TAD/EGR.



This one ^^^^^
 

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That is the Canister Purge Solenoid (CANP). For emissions, fuel vapors are drawn from the fuel tank and are routed to a Charcoal Element Canister. The charcoal absorbs any liquid fuel and vapors are routed to the Throttle Body (Intake) to be reburned, upon command from the EEC. This is because venting vapors into the atmosphere is a major cause of pollution. The line you refer to is fuel resistant rubber as hydrocarbons will break down silicone and other non-approved materials. In other words, that is a Fuel Vapor Line not a Vacuum Line.


Charcoal Element Canister



Canister Purge Soenoid
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
PM Seattle if you have any questions for him, your post will be deleted here.

From the forum rules:
Not trying to willy nilly and just go threw here and delete post or anything. But I have been putting an effort into keeping the Tech Write up section just that, A Write up section It Is to be used as a Reference if your doing the same thing/project.
There are rules for this area that no one/most don't follow, eg.Like If you have a ? You PM the original Poster. not keep posting in the thread. If You need or Feel you have to do that, Go Ask the ? in the noobie tech or the 80-96 tech section. more then likely you will even find the same ? posted many time there already. If anyone"original poster" feels that they just need to keep conversing in the thread ask And Ill move it for ya.

So a lot of threads are going to get cleaned up. Please be supportive of the rules for this area. Thank you All. Remember you all make this section what it is and it has some of the Best write ups of any forum out there.
 

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I bought 1' lengths of the 4mm, 6mm, 8mm, and 10mm lines from siliconeintakes, just to see how well they fit.


The 6, 8, and 10 fit well, but the 4 is too big to fit the smallest vac lines properly. I'm guessing a 2-3 would fit well. How did you guys overcome this?
 

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Guess I should have been more clear. My bad. I did read the first post. If I were to use the silicon hose would I need more than 20 ft? And do I need more than just the 4mm size?
I've got an 86 302, so don't order this exactly, but use it to give you an idea of the variety. This was also used to redo the vacuum in the dash for HVAC (all 1/4"):

9' x 3/8"
40' x1/4"
10' x3/16"
5' x1/4"
 

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Here's a video of mine completed as far as I wanted to go, I ran out of 6mm line so I ordered another 6 feet to finish one last plastic vaccum line from the 4x4 coupling near the EGR solenoids going up to the FI plenum but all the rest fit really well, I didn't have any problems with any of the sizes. The original cost for 4,6,8 and 10mm was $54.00 shipped and $11.00 for extra 6 feet totaling $65.00 but it looks really nice now all Red....thanks Seattle FSB..

I made a mistake calling the EVP sensor an EGR solenoid, my bad...but NBD..lol lol

http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/978539

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
My truck hasn't been driven all that much in the last 6 months or so since it's not a DD anymore, but so far everything has held up fine as far as I can tell. When I did my MAF swap I broke one of the vacuum Ts I used, but that was my fault.
 

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Booba5185, Thanks for the great write up! When I first looked under the hood I was bewildered by what I saw.

SeattleFSB, Thanks for your contributions as well.

Steve83, you didn't contribute to this particular thread, but your Supermotors resources were very helpful as well. I always appreciate the time you have put into that.

Although I liked how you guys ran your vacuum lines through the upper plenum, I decided to mimic the factory routing. My reasoning is I think it would be easier to make an emergency repair if need be. Also, I could pull just about any line and it would be long enough to use for any connection by running it up and over the plenum.

For anybody looking to do this, it was super simple. It took me about 1.5 hours, but I was working slowly and in the dark. I also was very impressed with the Siliconeintakes.com hose. I wouldn't chance buying it elsewhere as I can see how thinner walled hose would kink. All said and done, it was worth the time and cost not having to worry about 20+ year old plastic lines. :beer
 

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I was wondering to see how the silicone hoses are holding up also since this thread is a couple years old.

Anyone else besides booba have anything to report on the longevity of the silicone vacuum hoses?
yo Joe,
My 96, bought new still have original vacuum hoses;
"...The vacuum hoses used in the passenger compartment control circuit are constructed from PVC plastic material. The vacuum hoses used in the engine compartment are constructed of Hytrel. Because of the materials used, the vacuum hoses should never be pinched off during diagnosis to locate a leak. Use Rotunda Vacuum Tester 014-R1054 or equivalent to locate vacuum leaks. A wood golf tee can be used as a plug when it is necessary to plug one end of a vacuum hose for leak test purposes..."
Source: by Ford

1996 Bronco/F-Series Workshop Manual
Mini-Tube Vacuum Hose Service
https://www.motorcraftservice.com/pubs/content/~WSTJ/~MUS~LEN/20/STJC0042.HTM

easure the length of the damaged area of the mini-tube vacuum hose.

2.
Cut a piece of standard 3mm (1/8-inch) ID vacuum hose approximately 25mm (1 inch) longer than the damaged area of the mini-tube vacuum hose.

3.
Cut the mini-tube vacuum hose on each side of the damaged area and remove damaged portion of the mini-tube vacuum hose.

4.
Dip the mini-tube hose ends in Tetra Hydro Furan (THF) or Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK). Either of these solvents will act as a sealer for the repair of the mini-tube vacuum hose.

5.
Insert the ends of the mini-tube vacuum hose approximately 9mm (3/8 inch) into the ends of the standard 3 mm (1/8-inch) ID replacement vacuum hose.

6.
Shake the service joint after assembly to make sure solvent is dispersed and vacuum line is not blocked internally.

7.
Test system for a vacuum leak in area serviced.

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Vacuum Line (Hose), Mini-Tube Damage Repair in a 92
Source: by JohnMcD348 at
http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=175808
 

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Since I took Seattle FSB's suggestion and bought the www.siliconeintakes.com boost/vaccum kit I haven't had a vaccum problem and it looks great, I chose Red.

I didn't have any problems fit wise using the 4mm it seemed fine to me the only thing I didn't like was the 10mm for the TSB brake booster reroute it seemed to thin or soft so I didn't use it...www.supermotors.net/17406 if you need to check it out..

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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5/32" Internal diameter
 
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