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Old thread, I know. But do you remember the size and amount of hose was required?
Yo Shane, Booba used
"Approximately 20' of vacuum hose (5\32")
2 Vacuum T's

Seattle FSB wrote:
184007

Al
 

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Just wanted to reply to say thank you. I did this to my 1991 F150 XLT Lariat 5.0 and it’s running perfectly.

I’d also like to offer that, if, like me, you bought a 5.0 Ford on which the previous owner has deleted the smog pump and catalytic converter, blanking off the top ports of the TAB and TAD solenoids and the diverter valve port on the back of the manifold will make this tutorial work for you. Keep thinking, keep wrenching.
 

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If you want to color code the hoses, heatshrink is a good idea, but I could see it being a pain; unless you just do the ends of the hose, then go for it. I know I've seen a pack of colored electrical tape (has like 8 rolls, each a different color) at Lowes\Home Depot\Harbor Freight; one of them, they all kind of blur together lately lol. Maybe you could use that to wrap the hoses, too. Both would work great to color code it.

As far as reliability, I've had these hoses run this way since December with no issues. I was somewhat worried about the EGR tube thats under the intake plenum, so I kept an eye on that for awhile, but no problems at all. My plastic hoses were leaking and I didn't even know it; I touched the TAB line when I was changing the spark plug wire and it snapped; IIRC, might have been somethin else I was working on but I just caressed it and it broke. Sound familiar WuTang? :haha
Hello, I'm a disabled veteran here in Phoenix AZ. I got an 1994 F150 XLT 4x4 5.0L from Florida last week from a relative that just had the truck sitting idle...When I got it in Phoenix I noticed the vacuum lines were either clipped and unplugged and the other plastic lines were mostly leaking and crumbling..The big mistake I made is just removing all the lines including the TAD and TAB without taking a photo on their routing thinking I could just order new harnesses and lines..Boy was I wrong..I'm not able to do the fix you aptly described on replacing all lines...Do you know anyone in the Phoenix area that can do this ..Thanks Ralph
 

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I made an easy to understand diagram on an excel spreadsheet if anyone needs that may help as well. anyone needs it let me know

Booba, why are you running your plug wires like that ? I am guessing 7 and 8 ? does that hlep to avoid crossfire
I made an easy to understand diagram on an excel spreadsheet if anyone needs that may help as well. anyone needs it let me know

Booba, why are you running your plug wires like that ? I am guessing 7 and 8 ? does that hlep to avoid crossfire
Hi, If you still have the spread sheet that you made for the vacumn lines I would appreciate a copy if you don't mind. If you want you can send it to my e-mail [email protected], or as a message to my 1988-1996 ford forums, under racerdon. Thank You, that looks like a lot of work that you did!
 

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Hello, I'm a disabled veteran here in Phoenix AZ. I got an 1994 F150 XLT 4x4 5.0L from Florida last week from a relative that just had the truck sitting idle...When I got it in Phoenix I noticed the vacuum lines were either clipped and unplugged and the other plastic lines were mostly leaking and crumbling..The big mistake I made is just removing all the lines including the TAD and TAB without taking a photo on their routing thinking I could just order new harnesses and lines..Boy was I wrong..I'm not able to do the fix you aptly described on replacing all lines...Do you know anyone in the Phoenix area that can do this ..Thanks Ralph
Yo Ralph,
Welcome and Than You for Serving!
You can follow Booba's and Seattle FSB's path and by using following from former member Steve83:
White Product Human body Organism Mode of transport


"NOT SHOWN: brake booster hose & check valve, or pre-'93 vacuum cruise servo
To find leaks, use ~3' of garden hose or a mechanic's stethoscope:
Font Screenshot Parallel Rectangle Number

Underhood sticker;
Rectangle Font Parallel Technology Screenshot


Also, see my Vacuum leak test in post #11 @ Help with dtc codes and idle
It has quite a few pics to guide you. Can help with more info and pics!

ASAP, find out if speed control recall work, if equipped was completed. If you still have concerns about Recalls, please contact the Ford Customer Relationship Center:
US: 800-392-3673 | CA: 800-565-3673
Note: 3673 spells "FORD" on phone keys
For the hearing- or speech-impaired: Please contact the Telecommunication Relay Service by dialing 71
... have VIN ready.
"Summary: ON CERTAIN PICKUP TRUCKS, PASSENGER VEHICLES, SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES, AND MOTOR HOMES CHASSIS, THE SPEED CONTROL DEACTIVATION SWITCH MAY, UNDER CERTAIN CONDITIONS, LEAK INTERNALLY AND THEN OVERHEAT, SMOKE, OR BURN. THIS COULD RESULT IN AN UNDERHOOD FIRE."
See this guide by jowens1126 to confirm recall status @ 93 & 94-96 Cruise Control Recalls Repair
Note that the 93 recall is different than 94-96.

1994 Dealer Brochure by Ford via Dezo's Garage @ https://www.xr793.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/1994-Ford-F-Series.pdf

Haynes Red Manual for 80-95 Bronco & F Series @ Hanes guide 80-96 bko f series.pdf

For any other questions or to chat about it's planned modifications or build, it's better to post each seperately in Noobie Bronco Tech Questions. Flame free zone. This will get more attention and you can build up your post count to get into other sections such as Bronco and Ford Parts/Accessories (50 posts required to view).

See How to add your Signature @ Bronco Forum - Full Size Ford Bronco Forum by BigBlue 94

Our Forum FAQs includes for example; How To Upload Images To Posts, How to Use Search and more tips!

Baba Looey's Favorite FSB Links (lots and lots of tech links)
... Includes such as, How do I fix my back window?

Try to find time to participate and VOTE in our c Full-Size of the Year Contest & in the next Full-Size of the Month Contest @ Voting
You will get ideas by those competing. Also see the prizes! They are awesome as compared to other sites' "contests"!

Al
 

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1992 EB Bronco, 351W, E4OD, 3.55, 33x10.5 mostly stock at this point
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Hello, I'm a disabled veteran here in Phoenix AZ. I got an 1994 F150 XLT 4x4 5.0L from Florida last week from a relative that just had the truck sitting idle...When I got it in Phoenix I noticed the vacuum lines were either clipped and unplugged and the other plastic lines were mostly leaking and crumbling..The big mistake I made is just removing all the lines including the TAD and TAB without taking a photo on their routing thinking I could just order new harnesses and lines..Boy was I wrong..I'm not able to do the fix you aptly described on replacing all lines...Do you know anyone in the Phoenix area that can do this ..Thanks Ralph
Did you ever get this ironed out Ralph? I just did this process with my 92 bronco 5.8. Might be a bit different but might be close too. I replaced all my vac lines with thick wall Silicon lines and have been very happy with it.
 
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1988 Bronco XLT, 5.0 Automatic, Long tube headers, no cat, single exhaust
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Tracing my vacuum lines and I see that it branches to the power brake and then down under my filter and near the radiator on the driver side, but it is capped off. I believe it is where I have placed an arrow on the picture below. Mine is capped off. What is that supposed to be connected to? 1988 Bronco XLT 5.0



Tire Motor vehicle Automotive tire Vehicle Automotive design
 

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That's part of the cruise control system. You don't need it. I've never owned a Bronco that had working cruise. Mine are capped off as well.
 
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1991Bronco 5.8L, w/95frontclip, 6"Superlift/SuperRunner, Deaver J40 springs, 35x12.5 K&N, 3"Bassani
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Tracing my vacuum lines and I see that it branches to the power brake and then down under my filter and near the radiator on the driver side, but it is capped off. I believe it is where I have placed an arrow on the picture below. Mine is capped off. What is that supposed to be connected to? 1988 Bronco XLT 5.0



View attachment 193419
It goes to a vacuum reservoir (coffee can) for your cruise control vacuum. If it's capped off I would imagine the coffee can is missing. You can grab any vacuum, reservoir from the junkyard, parts store or eBay and connect it back up.
 

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Sorry to bring up kind of an older thread, but I was directed to this website by a FB post.

I have a 1992 Ford F150 5.8L V8 that has some broken lines that I am being told are vacuum lines. One is red, and the other is yellow. I went to O'Reilly near me and they told me that they do not carry that kind of hard line, that I would have to get it from the Ford dealer. I refuse to do that. What are my options for fixing these broken lines? I am not that savvy when it comes to figuring out what lines go where, I am still trying to figure out the first diagram on the first page of this thread.

I am putting a couple pics for people to see what I am talking about.
 

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'92 Custom w/ '95 MAF 5.0 M/T, 33's, 4.10 LSD
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What are my options for fixing these broken lines?
Start by reading the first post in the thread. ;) No one replaces them with hard plastic lines, unless they can find a full original set not yet degraded, which is why stores don't carry direct replacements.
 

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I kinda was thinking that the hard plastic isn't used anymore...
I am having a hard time deciphering what goes where...maybe I just am not seeing it right on my truck. All the different pictures is confusing me I guess.
 

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1996 Eddie Bauer 5.8L,Trailer Tow Package, Tilt Steering Wheel, Rear Torsion Bar
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Well, by golly, "Ask and you shall receive" has certainly worked for me!!

I have thought about changing out the vacuum line system on my '96 Eddie Bauer for a long time and wanted to get an idea of what I would need to do. Wow, did I find gold here on the forum! I'll be starting this as soon as possible. Like when the temperature gets down from the 100's to the 80's!

I appreciate the suggestions method's given on this thread.
 
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