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1994 Bronco XLT 5.0, E4OD, 31x10.5R15 BF Goodrich A/T on OEM Rims, Rust Resto w/Custom Suspension
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, I've looked everywhere and can't find a replacement soup/coffee can style vacuum reservoir. Mines got rust all over it and I'm pretty sure it's at least contributing my vacuum leak. So, it appears that I have the following options, none of which are "certified" as replacements for a 92-96 Bronco:

This one is an OEM part and looks like it may work
4C3Z-9E453-AA - Ford Parts Giant

Another OEM reservoir but not much info on compatibility
Amazon.com: Ford Reservoir - VAC : Automotive

I've seen this one referenced on a few posts around here but concerns it's not large enough
Dorman HELP! Plastic Vacuum Tank Unit 47076 | O'Reilly Auto Parts (oreillyauto.com)

Any thoughts on these options and how well they'll work? Anyone used anything else successfully?

Thanks as always!
 
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I grabbed a pair (mounted to a single bracket) like this off an early 90s F350 at the junkyard:
I used one of them to replace the "can of beans" one that was OEM on my '95 and so far it has worked fine. It really only retains vacuum for the climate control system, so your blend door doesn't close when you accelerate hard and the manifold vacuum drops.
 

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1981 Bronco, 4.9L, ZF5, NP208, Detroit Truetracs, 3.55 gears, 31" Wranglers front and rear
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I picked a couple round plastic ones at the yard. A smallish one off a Ranger that bolted right up to the inner fender where the coffee can was, and a larger one off a smaller GM truck, I believe. I can't remember what years they were, but you have to go back a few years to find them.
 

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Yo T,
Replace it with the plastic reservoir from a 96, or from a heavy truck back to 87 (which has a 2-chamber plastic reservoir.
 
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Fair warning - I basically just ask questions around here and don't have many solutions, but I was recently in the same boat with my reservoir.

There's a macgyver option I saw some people do and I wound up doing too -- using a juice/soup can from the supermarket.

Basically just cut out part of the lid end with the connectors off the original reservoir (hopefully that's in decent condition), cut a hole out in the end of the new juice can, empty/clean everything, and put old and new together.

I went with jb weld and some gasket maker to mate it -- but can probably get away with some other strong adhesive, or actual welding though.
Hit it with some paint and it should be good. Almost exact match to the original.

Won't last as long as a plastic one, but definitely cheaper for what that's worth.

Here's an example Homemade Vacuum Reservoir
 

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If it is not a Bronco, it's just not worth driving.....
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+1 to the 96 model reservoir. It is also the first one you have linked in your original post.

I snagged one out of a 96 Bronco and they bolt right into the same holes in your fender well. It also has about 50% more space in the reservoir.

If you still want the original "coffee can" reservoir, I may have one I can send you if you pay the shipping. Lemme know.
 

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1994 Bronco XLT 5.0, E4OD, 31x10.5R15 BF Goodrich A/T on OEM Rims, Rust Resto w/Custom Suspension
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
+1 to the 96 model reservoir. It is also the first one you have linked in your original post.

I snagged one out of a 96 Bronco and they bolt right into the same holes in your fender well. It also has about 50% more space in the reservoir.

If you still want the original "coffee can" reservoir, I may have one I can send you if you pay the shipping. Lemme know.
Great info and thanks! It's $50 at my local Ford dealership and I can get a discount using Costco. I'm sure shipping would be much less, but I'll probably give the new one a go first since I'm chasing a vac leak and need to make sure I eliminate an issue and not introduce a new one. Is the connection to the vac hose a direct swap or do I need to mod anything? If you have a pic of yours it would be great.
 
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1994 Bronco XLT 5.0, E4OD, 31x10.5R15 BF Goodrich A/T on OEM Rims, Rust Resto w/Custom Suspension
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well, I think it's safe to say that the old canister was not holding a vacuum...
Finger Wood Gas Rectangle Font


So, I put in the new one
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That seems to have helped some and now the blend door actuator is holding a vacuum. However, the two fat rubber hoses in the picture now kinda lay on top of the canister and get REALLY hot when the engine is on. I'm concerned that they will melt the thing or cause the vacuum tubes to dry up and crack. Should that be a concern? If so, what are those hoses for and how do I redirect them?
 
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Yo part 2
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by Ford via Former member Steve83 (BANNED)
 

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95 5.8L MAF XLT, Hedman Shorties/MF SS Y & Muff, E4OD, Man hubs, KYB Quads, 31x10.5x15, 304K miles
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Those are your Heater hoses as @miesk5 stated and you can use longer hoses to reroute them around your Vacuum Reservoir or use some thick foam insulation (hot water/ a/c cold line foam/rubber insulation) over the hoses in that area.
See Attached:

Better "Safe" than "Sorry". Always plan for the worst!!!!! Well I always do, but that's just me and I'm never disappointed!
 

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1994 Bronco XLT 5.0, E4OD, 31x10.5R15 BF Goodrich A/T on OEM Rims, Rust Resto w/Custom Suspension
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yo part 2
View attachment 184642
by Ford via Former member Steve83 (BANNED)
Do I need to get them up and off the plastic canister or will they be OK laying on it?

Also, in looking through some of the posts, I'm wondering if I put the vacuum hoses backwards on the canister. Right now the black one is on the nipple that has the word VAC in front of it.
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1994 Bronco XLT 5.0, E4OD, 31x10.5R15 BF Goodrich A/T on OEM Rims, Rust Resto w/Custom Suspension
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Those are your Heater hoses as @miesk5 stated and you can use longer hoses to reroute them around your Vacuum Reservoir or use some thick foam insulation (hot water/ a/c cold line foam/rubber insulation) over the hoses in that area.
See Attached:
OK, cool. That should work easily. Thanks!
 

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Yo,
Had to see a grandson run a5 school.
Our 96, bought new heater hoses running same area and are hot as well. Never had issues except in two occasions when a son in law broke vacuum hose while checking E4OD Fluid.
 

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Do I need to get them up and off the plastic canister or will they be OK laying on it?

Also, in looking through some of the posts, I'm wondering if I put the vacuum hoses backwards on the canister. Right now the black one is on the nipple that has the word VAC in front of it.
View attachment 184644
With the engine running remove the black nipple and check the red and black lines for vacuum, one should have vacuum and the other will not or shouldn't, then you will know which line goes where.
 

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1994 Bronco XLT 5.0, E4OD, 31x10.5R15 BF Goodrich A/T on OEM Rims, Rust Resto w/Custom Suspension
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yep, that worked. It's the red one, which means I had them connected backwards. I pulled the fitting off, snipped the 3rd hump and reversed it on the canister. I think this is correct now.

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive fuel system Automotive exterior Gas


However, I've still got an issue somewhere. When the A/C is on, the Vent, Normal and Max all blow at the same level and the blend door actuator doesn't change. The vents seem to blow correctly based on dial setting. Although I'm not sure where air should be coming from at each setting.
 

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Yep, that worked. It's the red one, which means I had them connected backwards. I pulled the fitting off, snipped the 3rd hump and reversed it on the canister. I think this is correct now.

View attachment 184649

However, I've still got an issue somewhere. When the A/C is on, the Vent, Normal and Max all blow at the same level and the blend door actuator doesn't change. The vents seem to blow correctly based on dial setting. Although I'm not sure where air should be coming from at each setting.
I might be wrong, but I'm pretty sure the vacuum reservoir for the climate control is actually mounted to the evaporator case on the firewall, and then is fed off of your vacuum tee. Then there are two (maybe more) vacuum actuators for the climate control. There's one where the two rubber hoses go to feed the heater core in the engine bay, this is for fresh air or recirc. The other one is about center under the dash. This one controls the venting of the air (defront/front/floor/etc). This blend door is behind the dash, centered just below the windshield (the dash has to be removed to inspect this blend door). If you are having temperature issues, this is cable driven blend door that operates off of your a/c controls hot/cold adjustment knob. The blend door for this is behind the passenger glove box. There is an access cover that you can remove to inspect this blend door (and get to the heater core).

Check all of these vacuum lines and see if any are disconnected. Also check the vacuum connection behind the a/c controls (be careful if you undo the nuts on the plastic studs, mine were dry rot and snapped off). Follow all of these multi colored vacuum lines as there is a place I believe under the dash on the passenger side where all these lines "plug into" another rubber harness and it can come undone there.
 
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