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Discussion Starter #1
I really like my ABS system, I don't want to bypass it. It works GREAT, but the pump unit leaks, slow at first but getting faster.

Has anyone grafted a pump unit off another truck/suv (explorer, expedition, etc) to a bronco? Wiring doesn't really scare me, nor does fabbing a few brake lines, but I'd prefer not to overhaul a whole wiring harness.

OR has anyone gone from 4WABS to RABS?

Thanks
 

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They haul the wreck off the road and cut you a check or the other way around. You would need a Ford Engineer on site to tell that something like that has been modified. Maybe in the big cities they have engineers that examine every single wreck with an engineer stethoscope (out here the county sheriff office has an official policy that they won't even show up to an accident unless someone is dead or seriously injured) but I've never seen it happen.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Steve ya know I didn't really think about that and I appreciate the input. I'm going to see if I can research the explorer setup more and see how different they are in terms of resistance and inputs and such. Safety will of course be number one.

On the other hand there are a ton of people modifying and sometimes hacking causing some seriously unsafe situations, I see them roll through the shop all the time. I think I could do something a lot worse if I tried :toothless

Steve I have another question for you, do you know offhand what the differences are between the 93 and 94-96 modules are in broncos? And why they won't interchange?
 

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yo,
so far. by consensus the best re man 4WABS Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU)s are from BBA Reman
http://www.bba-reman.com/content.aspx?content=ford_bronco_explorer_abs_pump_modulator_unit_problem
"...This part is no longer available from Ford. Please call us for a price..."

a bba review BY Babaganoosh
"... all I can say is BBA all the way. BBA did the rebuilds on ABS Modules for my old VW/Audi Shop. They were super inexpensive, fast, friendly, and only had one issue with them ever and it was 50% my fault anyways (keep in mind it's VW stuff anyways).
--

Parts Catalog 92-96 Bronco (Partial) by Ford
https://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/874800


ABS module, sensor, decel switch, etc., air bag module, monitor, sensor, etc., underhood dimensions in mm, cruise control, wheels, frame, PAGE 836

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Here is the 96 Bronco-F-Series Workshop Manual (PARTIAL)

Section 06-09B: Brake, Anti-Lock, 4-Wheel
1996 Bronco Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
Hydraulic Control Unit
Removal
1.Disconnect battery positive cable.
2.Disconnect 8-pin connector attaching anti-lock hydraulic control unit (2C215) to wire harness, and disconnect 4-pin connector attaching pump motor to harness.
3.Remove two tubes from inlet ports and three tubes from outlet ports of anti-lock hydraulic control unit. Plug each port to prevent brake fluid from spilling on paint and wiring.
4.Remove three nuts retaining anti-lock hydraulic control unit to mounting bracket and remove anti-lock hydraulic control unit from vehicle.

Installation
1. CAUTION: Bronco anti-lock hydraulic control unit is not interchangeable with other units. Be sure to replace with correct part.
Insert anti-lock hydraulic control unit into mounting bracket. Install three retaining nuts and tighten to 16-24 Nm (12-18 lb-ft)
2.Connect three tubes to outlet ports on side of anti-lock hydraulic control unit and two tubes to inlet ports on front of anti-lock hydraulic control unit. Tighten tube fittings to 14-24 Nm (10-18 lb-ft).
3.Connect 8-pin connector and 4-pin connector to harness.
4.NOTE: When the battery has been disconnected and reconnected, some abnormal drive symptoms may occur while the powertrain control module (PCM) (12A650) relearns its adaptive strategy. The vehicle may need to be driven 16 km (10 miles) or more to relearn the strategy.
Connect battery positive cable.
5.Bleed hydraulic control unit, refer to Section 06-06. Check for fluid leaks.
================


Google that Ford PN for other reman sources

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4WABS Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU) Motor; "...pulled a motor off a crown vic, the unit it self was differant but the motor was the same. Cost me 20 bucks. OH and the wire conector was differant as well but I just drafted the one from the nfg motor on to the crown and it works great. That was 4 years ago. no problems yet...its only 2 screws that hold it in. And best part is it doesn't open the system so you won't loose fluid and won't need to bleed it. Now all you need to do is go to the bone yard and find one..."
Source: by bossind (boss, Steve) at FSB

4WABS Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU) Bleeding Procedure (DIY)
Source: by SigEpBlue (Steve) at FSB http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=106364

Conventional bleed is all that is required for service on the new 4WABS including unhooking brake lines from the hydraulic controller (HCU). However, if the HCU is replaced, a special bleed box and electrical jumper will be required to bleed the replacement HCU. This procedure is not the same as for the passenger car systems...."
Source: by Ford via Steve83

BTW, Here is Ford's price for non-existent NEW HCU;
Part Number: 2C215 Price: $2,130.92

And NEW Sources;
F3TZ-2C215-B
Availability: 3 found at 2 sellers
Variations: F3TZ2C215B, F3TZ*2C215*B
http://www.rearcounter.com/F3TZ-2C215-B-parts396181.html
F3TZ2C215B Seller: Green Sales Company - View Profile
Description: Phone: Show Phone Number
Price: Request Pricing Email: Send Seller Email Inquiry
Quantity: 2 Location: Cincinnati, Ohio

Bob Allen Ford - View Profile
Description: Phone: Show Phone Number
Price: Request Pricing Email: Send Seller Email Inquiry
Quantity: 1 Location: Overland Park, Kansas

===

Since the 93 4WABS Module is "different' from 94-96 Bronco modules, I figure the HCUs are as well.

Will have to look at the wiring diagrams later; or you can @ http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd

93 is @ http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=8624

94 @ http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=4897

Visit local Ford dealer and in Parts Dept, ask about checking HCU compatibility to 94-96 in either the Buys Guide or Interchange Data Bases
 

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I really like my ABS system, I don't want to bypass it. It works GREAT, but the pump unit leaks, slow at first but getting faster.

Has anyone grafted a pump unit off another truck/suv (explorer, expedition, etc) to a bronco? Wiring doesn't really scare me, nor does fabbing a few brake lines, but I'd prefer not to overhaul a whole wiring harness.

OR has anyone gone from 4WABS to RABS?

Thanks
If it's just the hydraulic unit and not the actual computer yes you can take one from an explorer I have done it but here's what you need to do-

First find one thats in good shape you will need a multimeter that can measure ohms and make sure that the connections between the pins are with in range ( you can get that information from autozones repair help portion of their website you will need to resize all the boxes in word or paint to be able to read them correctly it will have diagrams of the connector on the hydraulic control unit and pump connectors). This is the hard part finding one that works.

Second is to remove everything in your engine compartment that is in the way of getting to it which is mainly the air intake nothing really hard to take out but it makes doing this swap a lot easier.

Third clean up the new unit my pump ( the top piece) was good so all I had to replace was the bottom piece. It has a few holes in the top for brake fluid to move through and then the three ports in the side for the brake lines.

Fourth get the proper bit to separate the pump and the hydraulic control unit and the correct wrenches for the brake lines and for the three mounting bolts make sure you have all these tools with in arms reach you will need to work fast. Also you will need some Saran Wrap and possibly rubber gloves unless you don't mind brake fluid on you hands.

Fifth cover and connectors in the area with Saran Wrap to keep fluid out of them as well as any thing else you don't want brake fluid on makes clean up easier.

Sixth remove the three brake line that go into your old hydraulic control unit and then the three mounting bolts. Some fluid will leak but work fast. Quickly put the new unit under it and bolt it in place and hook the brake lines back up. Then on the old unit that's still help to the pump remove the three bolts off the pump and separate the pump and remove the old one. Now is when fluid will start really leaking. There is a gasket of sorts between the two halves wipe that clean and place it where it goes and reposition your pump over the new unit and bolt them back together. ( speed is essential here as the longer you take the more brake fluid you will loose)

Seventh if your new hydraulic control unit will connect back to your wiring harness just it it in. If it's like mine was then the harness on the Bronco is a female end and the explorer unit is also a female end you will need to do some wiring you can either if your gentle with removing the two connector pieces swap one of the female 8 pin connectors for the male or if a pin breaks like one of mine did you will need to find another way to connect them I just hard wired them together using heat shrink connectors it was a pain but works.

Eighth add more brake fluid to the master cylinder and bleed the brakes in the normal process. Then here's where all the books say you need the brake bleeder tool from ford to do the hydraulic control unit there is a way around it turn the truck on and push the pedal all the way down it takes a lot of force you will almost think your going to snap it off hold it there and turn the truck off and have a helper add more fluid to the master cylinder and then turn the truck on and slowly release the pedal and repeat the process a few times until the level in the master cylinder stays the same then rebleed the brakes.

Then reassemble everything you had to remove to swap it out and test drive it. The hardest part is finding the new parts either online or in a junk yard. I went through probably 30 Fords at a junk yard before I found one that even had the pump/hydraulic unit still in it and had to test about 7 of them before I found a working one. Make sure you test the unit before replacing it it will save you from having to do this over and over until you get a good one. If you need any other pointers just ask.
 

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Everything I'm seeing online leads me to believe the Cardone 12-2025 part is for RABS, not 4WABS. Can someone that has purchased this part confirm?
 

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Have you looked at that part? It has 2 ports.
Yep, but I try not to trust the images since sometimes they just use a generic part.

I work at Cardone. I confirmed with our Tech advisors that 12-2025 is for Rear Wheel only.
Thanks. If anyone there knows a good source for a 4WABS HCU, I'd sure like to know. :beer
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Robertson- I ended up going with a 1994 explorer unit and module. The HCU was a direct fit except for the 8 pin plug, the explorer's was a female plug and the bronco had a male on the HCU. The module p/n was the same as the one in my truck too.

So far I'm happy to say it works great, I did multiple panic stops on a few surfaces and so far so good.
 

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Do you guys know what years the explorer HCU will work?

Also, I searched on a 95 explorer (since my Bronco is 95) and there are 2 different part numbers; one for the 2-door and one for the 4-door. Any idea what the difference is?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I would not recommend a 95 unit. From my research, the 95-97 explorer HCUs are different from 93-94 explorers and 93-96 broncos. The pump motor on the broncos and early explorers uses a 4 wire plug. Two wire's are power and ground for the pump, and two wires sense pump speed for the module. On the 95-97 pumps its a three wire plug. There is only one wire for the motor speed sensor.

I THINK you can adapt the later pump by grounding the low sense wire for pump speed from the module. This is totally speculation and I would not recommend trying it. However the module might swap in and work up to 97. The rest of the wiring is very similar and the plug is the same 40 pin from the older version.
 

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Cool. I'm not trying to get any more complicated than I need to, so 93-94 sounds good to me. Thanks.
 

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Also just to help anyone else out I contacted BBA Reman to see about getting my original unit rebuilt and they no longer are able to do this as there are no parts being made or left in that case to rebuild them they will how ever try and help locate one but who knows what the cost will be on that.
 

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Also just to help anyone else out I contacted BBA Reman to see about getting my original unit rebuilt and they no longer are able to do this as there are no parts being made or left in that case to rebuild them they will how ever try and help locate one but who knows what the cost will be on that.
I just called them, and they said that to repair my 96 it'd probably run about 250 for the module, and 350 for the pump. If they cant fix it all i pay is 35.

Theyre trying to find me a pump in case i cant find my old one.
 

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Does anyone know the what the difference is between these two units?
F3TZ-2C215-A and the F3TZ-2C215-B
F3TZ-2C215-B are like non existent and there are a few of the F3TZ-2C215-A
Can the A be used in place of the B with some mods??
 
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