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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys. It's time to replace my ball joints in the 95 bronco. I know how, just not sure on where to buy and what brand. As I found out the hard way the zone, they sell shit made warranty items. But do I really want to have to remove the spindle and everything to replace the BJ in a couple of months. NO. So i know motor craft sells a set, moog and spincer. I am sure there are other off brands as well. But since I have 33's tire size i figure I want some quality so I don't have to re-replace in 2 years from now.
You input is needed.
 

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Hey guys. It's time to replace my ball joints in the 95 bronco. I know how, just not sure on where to buy and what brand. As I found out the hard way the zone, they sell shit made warranty items. But do I really want to have to remove the spindle and everything to replace the BJ in a couple of months. NO. So i know motor craft sells a set, moog and spincer. I am sure there are other off brands as well. But since I have 33's tire size i figure I want some quality so I don't have to re-replace in 2 years from now.
You input is needed.
Anytime you can get Spicer, get it. Use rockauto.com for the best prices.
 

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Most people get over 200,000 miles out of the original(spicer) joints, replace with the same and if the rest of the truck last another 200,000 miles I'd say your doing pretty good.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
GOOD DEAL. I was planning on using spicer. Nice to hear they hold up for such a long time.


Thanks for the input all!
 

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When I did mine, my front end mechanic recommended that I get either spicer, or Moogs IIRC he prefered MOOGs. At any rate, I was stunned when i noted that AZ carried spicer.

I already bought my MOOGS.
 

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+1 for spicer.
 

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I'm pretty sure you need to tear it all down to replace ball joints, there's a number of threads here with pictures so "search" to get a good idea of what's invloved...AND which ever brand you decide get greasable ones and you might as well do the "radius arm busings" while it's all apart.

O'Reillys has a loan a tool deal where you just leave a deposit and it's 100% refundable within 48hrs if returned so that's 0 (zero) cost to you, it's what I did for rebuilding my drive shafts using the "ball joint/u-joint" press which is an industrial size C clamp and large thread bar with a 7/8" end for a socket and torque wrench works like a charm but you need a decent vice grip on a work bench to mount the C clamp press if you're doing u-joints, ball joints I guess you do right there on the front end...?

You can also buy the press tool at Harbor Freight for around $69.99 minus any internet 10%-15% discount coupons you find.....?

IMO the radius arm set up is a stupid design to have to tear down the whole front end just to replace radius arm bushings but Moog whould be a good choice for that. I just put on new tires, shocks, TRE dust boot covers on the drag link and rebuilt both drive shafts (rear Cardan) and was told by my alignment guy I need new RA bushings, some guys knock off the rivets on the frame bracket and use grade 8 bolts so all you have to do in the future is unbolt the RA frame bracket, easy peasy which is what I'm considering though I'll need new balls in the very near future.

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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I got my Spicers from JBG IIRC. They are non-greaseable, but that's what I wanted... no maintenance, and my OEM non-greaseables lasted for 120K miles.
 

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My MOOGs have been good so far, for what it's worth. They are a well-built unit. I have all 4 redone.
 

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I got my Spicers from JBG IIRC. They are non-greaseable, but that's what I wanted... no maintenance, and my OEM non-greaseables lasted for 120K miles.
JBG is where I'm going to get mine, $45 a pair, probably $100 after shipping. Mine are just going out, 240,000 miles on originals.
 

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I'm pretty sure you need to tear it all down to replace ball joints, there's a number of threads here with pictures so "search" to get a good idea of what's invloved...AND which ever brand you decide get greasable ones and you might as well do the "radius arm busings" while it's all apart.

O'Reillys has a loan a tool deal where you just leave a deposit and it's 100% refundable within 48hrs if returned so that's 0 (zero) cost to you, it's what I did for rebuilding my drive shafts using the "ball joint/u-joint" press which is an industrial size C clamp and large thread bar with a 7/8" end for a socket and torque wrench works like a charm but you need a decent vice grip on a work bench to mount the C clamp press if you're doing u-joints, ball joints I guess you do right there on the front end...?

You can also buy the press tool at Harbor Freight for around $69.99 minus any internet 10%-15% discount coupons you find.....?

IMO the radius arm set up is a stupid design to have to tear down the whole front end just to replace radius arm bushings but Moog whould be a good choice for that. I just put on new tires, shocks, TRE dust boot covers on the drag link and rebuilt both drive shafts (rear Cardan) and was told by my alignment guy I need new RA bushings, some guys knock off the rivets on the frame bracket and use grade 8 bolts so all you have to do in the future is unbolt the RA frame bracket, easy peasy which is what I'm considering though I'll need new balls in the very near future.

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
I started out to do the radius arm bushings by using the chisel and hammer method. After an hour I had one rivet out. Said screw this, took her down to the welding shop close by and gave them 140.00 to blow torch em out, install the bushings and put new grade 8 bolts in. I thought that was a pretty good deal. Anyways, unless ya got a rack or you're running 40 inch tires, there just aint no room down there to swing a hammer. Just my 2 cents worth.
By the way JK I enjoy your instructional videos and have learned alot from them - keep up the good work!

Glayd
 

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I've read the same, torching or air chiseling is about the quickest way....we'll see, I don't know if I can do the ball joints here myself, I can rent the ball joint press tool but you have to get it back with in 48 hrs and timeline is an important factor due to my PITA GF, I got to be rolling everyday SOOOOOOOOO I'll have to figure out a plan which way to go, pay someone to torch bolts off now and get that done soon to help improve my front end alignment factor and wait until next year when the GF goes to Europe for 2 weeks and take a shot at the BJ's myself....?

Either way it s BIG PITA but needs to get done......lol lol...

Thanks on the videos, I'm just trying to pay it forward and help...I've had some trouble downloading the flip mini cam vidoes onto super motors site, error message something was missing and I may be approaching the limit but I'll try again, the last 2 I did were on You Tube, quick and easy download but I have to remember how to find them again...lol lol...

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #19
the next question is how many people used them and what kind of response did they have. I'm all about saving money but a ball joint job is very time consuming.Not looking to save money now to have to replace 50,000 miles from now.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
some vendor have a money back policy, and that's fine. But that does not cover my labor.Or my off the road time.
Just saying..... Looking for a one and done job. Gonna change bearings, seals, brakes and turn rotors. Figure all is off anyway why not. looking for the the best bang for my buck.
 
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