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Discussion Starter #1
Is there a trick to getting the rotor off the hub (other than removing the studs, using penetrating oil, heat, a hammer and a 4-ton bottle jack)?

I hear it's supposed to slip off once the studs are out but this sure ain't slipping.
 

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The studs are what holds it together.

Look for my tech thread on this process in my signature :thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The studs are what holds it together.

Look for my tech thread on this process in my signature :thumbup
I saw that. It didn't have and studs in it. I bent a rib on the side of a loaded dumpster lifting it up trying to use a bottle jack to press the hub out of the rotor. The studs aren't the problem.

Is it supposed to just fall apart once the studs are out?

I figured this kind of crap would happen so today I picked up a junkyard spare hub + rotor, once that's done I'll put it on the truck and swap the rotor on the hub that comes off the truck. I haven't tried pressing the "new to me" one out yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
It should come apart if all the studs are removed.

It's probably rusted together :shrug
Is it possible that my rotor is askew on the hub and not warped (which is why I'm changing rotors at all)?

That would explain why the jack won't move it as well as the "warped rotor" pedal feel.

Pictures?
Well since it didn't come apart it's back on the truck and will likely remain there until sometime this week. So no pics. I'll try putting the new rotor on the new to me hub after I clean all the junkyard sand out of the hub and get a new grease seal for it.


update: 15 swings of the hammer and one pissed off middle aged woman later (go drink bleach ya dumb shit!)... it turns out the rotor slides right off my new to me hub after the studs are out. Something it definitely not right with my driver's side hub/rotor (the one I'm having problems with).
 

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Will be doing my ball joints when they come in later this week and will be tackling the rest. Hopefully my BFH and chisel will separate the two.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Will be doing my ball joints when they come in later this week and will be tackling the rest. Hopefully my BFH and chisel will separate the two.
Get an actual fork. For $10 the HF one does the job fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Some evening this week I'll play musical hubs and we'll get pics.

Aahh... The joys of the salt belt. :rolleyes: ;)
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/72051

Once the studs are loose, find some scrap 2x10 and make a small box with a 1/2~3/4" floor - just big enough for the rotor's hat to fit inside, but small enough for most of the rotor face to rest on, and deep enough for the hub snout NOT to touch the floor. Then drop them onto flat concrete until the hub slides out of the rotor.
I blocked it with bricks, slid it under the rib on the door end of a (mostly full) compactor dumpster and used a 4t bottle jack to try to press it out. When that didn't work (maxed out the jack) I got a 20t bottle jack and lifted the dumpster. While the dumpster was on it I hit it with a hammer. Nothing moved. I'm not confident that dropping it will do much.

If that doesn't split them, set the rotor on cardboard on the concrete with the hub snout up, and use a BP hammer to smack the face of the hub between the stud holes in a star pattern. The vibration should loosen the rust.
That was the first thing I did after the studs came out. It also soaked overnight in liquid wrench.

Sure, but I don't think it's likely. If it was, the rim would be just as "warped", causing the tire to wobble as you drove. In any case, make sure you clean all the mating surfaces thoroughly during assembly.
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/881406
If the hub face was straight but the rotor wasn't flat on the backside of it then the wheel would be straight and the rotor would be askew, causing pulsing in the caliper. How would that warp the wheel? I can see a warped hub face causing wobble or warping anything that bolts to it but if the rotor doesn't seat all the way and doesn't (or does) get warped by fastening the wheel it would cause a "warped rotor" pedal feel. But that would happen at assembly, not randomly after 20yr.

Try heating it up and a few good hits with a BFH
Tried that.
 

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Just get a new hub and rotor assembly they are not too expensive (not cheap but not bad), and you would be done already. Do you really want to re-use it if it is that rusty?
 

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This probably isn't a good idea, and you can probably break the hub doing this, but I've had good luck standing the rotor on its edge, and just wail on the snout of the hub with a sledgehammer :brownbag Keep in mind, that I only did this to a pair of Dana 50 hubs. Dana 44 hubs may not be able to take such a beating. But you already have a spare, right? :toothless
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Just get a new hub and rotor assembly they are not too expensive (not cheap but not bad), and you would be done already. Do you really want to re-use it if it is that rusty?
It's not that rusty or I'd be blaming the rust instead of wondering if it's jammed on at an angle or bent.

This probably isn't a good idea, and you can probably break the hub doing this, but I've had good luck standing the rotor on its edge, and just wail on the snout of the hub with a sledgehammer :brownbag Keep in mind, that I only did this to a pair of Dana 50 hubs. Dana 44 hubs may not be able to take such a beating. But you already have a spare, right? :toothless
I already got a spare from the JY, $20 including bearings, nut seal, rotor and lugs, sure beats $80+ to get just a bare (used) hub on-line.
 

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Do not hit the "snout" with a hammer. PO did that to mine and now I have to get a repacement as no bearings or locking hub fit properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
It'll only take a few minutes to find out.I was thinking of the more-common configuration of the rotor being between the hub & rim. :brownbag The rotor would have no effect on the wheel. :thumbupThey're actually VERY easy to bend because the wall is so thin at the hub lock splines. So he'd ruin the hub, and he's not reusing the rotor, so what would be the point? It would be better to cut the rotor, and then break it away from the hub, which could then be cleaned up & reused.
I figure that exranger meant the backside, since that's the side that one would hit with a hammer to get the rotor off. With the rotor on you probably can't get a big hammer to come in at enough of an angle to bend it. No way I'd hit the outboard end of the hub directly. The area beyond the splines is probably less than 1/4 wall.

It's rained every evening this week so I'll probably get this done Friday afternoon or the weekend. The pulsing brakes is a PITA
 

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I figure that exranger meant the backside, since that's the side that one would hit with a hammer to get the rotor off. With the rotor on you probably can't get a big hammer to come in at enough of an angle to bend it. No way I'd hit the outboard end of the hub directly. The area beyond the splines is probably less than 1/4 wall.

It's rained every evening this week so I'll probably get this done Friday afternoon or the weekend. The pulsing brakes is a PITA
Nope, I meant the front side. :brownbag Stand the rotor up on its edge, so the front snout of the hub is horizontal. Take a sledge and wail straight down on the snout. :brownbag
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I replaced the passenger side rotor today (by swapping on the JY hub with a new rotor. The rotor didn't come off the hub nearly as easily as the junkyard one did so I'll just go to the junkyard next Saturday and get another hub+rotor for $20 and use it for the passenger side. If it weren't so cheap to get another hub I'd find a shop willing to press the rotor off for cheap. I'm not at home right now so forcing the stuck rotor off the hub isn't an option since I only have basic tools. Next time I'm at home I'll get it apart.
 
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