I saw that. It didn't have and studs in it. I bent a rib on the side of a loaded dumpster lifting it up trying to use a bottle jack to press the hub out of the rotor. The studs aren't the problem.The studs are what holds it together.
Look for my tech thread on this process in my signature :thumbup
Is it possible that my rotor is askew on the hub and not warped (which is why I'm changing rotors at all)?It should come apart if all the studs are removed.
It's probably rusted together :shrug
Well since it didn't come apart it's back on the truck and will likely remain there until sometime this week. So no pics. I'll try putting the new rotor on the new to me hub after I clean all the junkyard sand out of the hub and get a new grease seal for it.Pictures?
I blocked it with bricks, slid it under the rib on the door end of a (mostly full) compactor dumpster and used a 4t bottle jack to try to press it out. When that didn't work (maxed out the jack) I got a 20t bottle jack and lifted the dumpster. While the dumpster was on it I hit it with a hammer. Nothing moved. I'm not confident that dropping it will do much.Aahh... The joys of the salt belt.
Once the studs are loose, find some scrap 2x10 and make a small box with a 1/2~3/4" floor - just big enough for the rotor's hat to fit inside, but small enough for most of the rotor face to rest on, and deep enough for the hub snout NOT to touch the floor. Then drop them onto flat concrete until the hub slides out of the rotor.
That was the first thing I did after the studs came out. It also soaked overnight in liquid wrench.If that doesn't split them, set the rotor on cardboard on the concrete with the hub snout up, and use a BP hammer to smack the face of the hub between the stud holes in a star pattern. The vibration should loosen the rust.
If the hub face was straight but the rotor wasn't flat on the backside of it then the wheel would be straight and the rotor would be askew, causing pulsing in the caliper. How would that warp the wheel? I can see a warped hub face causing wobble or warping anything that bolts to it but if the rotor doesn't seat all the way and doesn't (or does) get warped by fastening the wheel it would cause a "warped rotor" pedal feel. But that would happen at assembly, not randomly after 20yr.
Tried that.Try heating it up and a few good hits with a BFH
It's not that rusty or I'd be blaming the rust instead of wondering if it's jammed on at an angle or bent.Just get a new hub and rotor assembly they are not too expensive (not cheap but not bad), and you would be done already. Do you really want to re-use it if it is that rusty?
I already got a spare from the JY, $20 including bearings, nut seal, rotor and lugs, sure beats $80+ to get just a bare (used) hub on-line.This probably isn't a good idea, and you can probably break the hub doing this, but I've had good luck standing the rotor on its edge, and just wail on the snout of the hub with a sledgehammer :brownbag Keep in mind, that I only did this to a pair of Dana 50 hubs. Dana 44 hubs may not be able to take such a beating. But you already have a spare, right? :toothless
I figure that exranger meant the backside, since that's the side that one would hit with a hammer to get the rotor off. With the rotor on you probably can't get a big hammer to come in at enough of an angle to bend it. No way I'd hit the outboard end of the hub directly. The area beyond the splines is probably less than 1/4 wall.It'll only take a few minutes to find out.I was thinking of the more-common configuration of the rotor being between the hub & rim. :brownbag The rotor would have no effect on the wheel. :thumbupThey're actually VERY easy to bend because the wall is so thin at the hub lock splines. So he'd ruin the hub, and he's not reusing the rotor, so what would be the point? It would be better to cut the rotor, and then break it away from the hub, which could then be cleaned up & reused.
Nope, I meant the front side. :brownbag Stand the rotor up on its edge, so the front snout of the hub is horizontal. Take a sledge and wail straight down on the snout. :brownbagI figure that exranger meant the backside, since that's the side that one would hit with a hammer to get the rotor off. With the rotor on you probably can't get a big hammer to come in at enough of an angle to bend it. No way I'd hit the outboard end of the hub directly. The area beyond the splines is probably less than 1/4 wall.
It's rained every evening this week so I'll probably get this done Friday afternoon or the weekend. The pulsing brakes is a PITA