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MidlifeCrisisUndrWay
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is it possible to replace the pivot bushings on the TTB WITHOUT removing said TTB from the rig?
Has anyone done that?

Vids I've seen on YT says basically no.
 

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1990 5.0 5 speed custom
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Yeah you totally can. It's what I did. Basically, jack it up from the frame to take pressure off the bolt that goes through your bushing and remove the bolt. Then slowly release the jack. The weight of the truck will push the housing down far enough to work on it. You may need to move the jack right under the steering knuckle to apply more force to that wheel. But the bushing will come down. You may need a pry bar to pull the trb housing down further. But it's doable. That's how I did it at least. Probably not the "right" way to do it, but it worked for me.

I rented a ball joint press from the parts store and went to the hardware store for some threaded rod (whatever size fits through the bushing) and some nuts, as well as a shit ton of fender washers. There was a washer there that was the perfect size to push the bushing in . The washers are definitely not designed for this purpose, so they'll start to crumble, but that's why you get a lot of them.

Hopefully that makes sense.
 

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To further explain, you will put the cup from the ball joint press on the front of the axle housing to give the bushing space to push out. Feed your threaded rod through the cup through the bushing. Put two nuts on the threaded rod on the front side of the axle housing and tighten them together. These will be the "stop" which will sit on that ball joint press cup. On the back side of the axle housing, take a handful of those washers (they are exactly the same diameter as the backside of your new bushing) and put them on your threaded rod, then put a nut on the backside of the threaded rod and keep torquing it until the washers push that bushing forward.

This is a really crappy way to get them out, but I didn't want to buy a specialty room for something I need to do once. It will probably take a dozen tries to get it to align well enough to actually work. When I did it, the whole rig would drift a bit as you wrench it, and the whole thing would need to be reset, if you will.

These things suck ass.

I know you weren't asking about how to actually remove them, but figured I'd share what worked for me anyway. Do it whatever way makes sense and works best for you, that's just how I did it. I'm sure there's a better way but this will at least work, albeit poorly.

The process for installation is basically just put the cup and stop nuts on the backside of the axle and put the washers up front and crank it in. This makeshift press performs even worse on installation, but it will eventually get the bushing in there.

You'll notice that if those bushings are stock, then they have a flange bent out on the backside to prevent them from working their way out towards the front of the axle. I used pliers to bend this flange in towards the center of the bushing.

Everything about this project sucks ass. Fair warning. It's not particularly hard, just takes a LOT of patience. Again, it would probably be way easier with the proper tools, but I'm too cheap for that. Hopefully it goes better for you than it did me.
 
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I have my beams out for a suspension lift so swapping bushings was cake. The coil spring seat is a perfect pusher.

The beams weren’t difficult to remove. Rigged them up off the engine hoist and floated them out - passenger first, drivers side second. The drivers side is a pain because the diff wants to roll the axle and I didn’t have a good way to keep it from doing so. A small come along or even a ratchet strap would be helpful.

I can understand not wanting to pull the beams for this. Since you have a lift that may make it easier. Probably still be a PiTA.

Good luck.

Wood Gas Hardwood Flooring Cylinder
 
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You have to remove the arm. There's no other way to do it. I tried not removing the arm. I bent the arm and the bushing doesn't fit tight. I'm one day going to put a D60 under that truck probably because of that. (I mean I dont think I want to take apart ttb) It does wear the outer passenger tire (same arm) more the rest of the tire. It could be 230k mile tie rods; or it could be that pivot bushing moving. TLDR it's not worth the damage.
 

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MidlifeCrisisUndrWay
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You have to remove the arm. There's no other way to do it. I tried not removing the arm. I bent the arm and the bushing doesn't fit tight. I'm one day going to put a D60 under that truck probably because of that. (I mean I dont think I want to take apart ttb) It does wear the outer passenger tire (same arm) more the rest of the tire. It could be 230k mile tie rods; or it could be that pivot bushing moving. TLDR it's not worth the damage.
Totally agree with your points. 🍺

In about 3.5 years, a '13+ F-550 front axle will replace the TTB.
 

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If it is not a Bronco, it's just not worth driving.....
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When I replaced my bushings I tried to leave the TTB arms on the truck. The first one took me about 6 hours to pull, replace and remount. The second one I took the TTB arm off the truck and even with tearing it down and putting it back together, it still only took 1.5 hours from start to finish.

The problem that I had was getting room enough under the truck and in between all the other parts to get the bushing out an back in. It was much easier when I took the TTB arms off the truck..

Just my 2 cents worth...
 

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I've done these 3 or 4 times and have never removed the arms.

Break it down until you at least can remove the axles (the spindles will need to come off).

Then the arms will drop down far enough to expose the axle pivot bushings. I also highly suggest getting polyurethane bushings. I'm not a big fan of those normally because of the ride harshness they add, but these bushings are a pain to change, and you'll probably never have to replace poly bushings. Plus, you don't have to remove the metal sleeve from the old bushing. Just the rubber. I used a ball joint press with a big socket on it to push the old rubber out, and then a wire brush on a drill bit to clean the rest out. The poly bushing went right into the old sleeve and done.

White Automotive tire Musical instrument Wheel Tire
 
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MidlifeCrisisUndrWay
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I've done these 3 or 4 times and have never removed the arms.

Break it down until you at least can remove the axles (the spindles will need to come off).

Then the arms will drop down far enough to expose the axle pivot bushings. I also highly suggest getting polyurethane bushings. I'm not a big fan of those normally because of the ride harshness they add, but these bushings are a pain to change, and you'll probably never have to replace poly bushings. Plus, you don't have to remove the metal sleeve from the old bushing. Just the rubber. I used a ball joint press with a big socket on it to push the old rubber out, and then a wire brush on a drill bit to clean the rest out. The poly bushing went right into the old sleeve and done.

View attachment 198783
I like your simplicity method.:cool:

So; would I use something like this for your method:
Automotive tire Camera accessory Font Camera lens Auto part


BTW; can I safely assume there are two outer and one inner bushing in one bushing set here?👆
And what is the big bushing ring; an outer spacer?:unsure:
 

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Yep, that's the kit, and it does both sides. There are only 2 axle pivot bushings, one for each TTB arm.

This is it put together:

Wood Bumper Automotive tire Gas Hat


And installed:

Automotive tire Plant Terrestrial plant Rim Tints and shades
 
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95 5.8L MAF XLT, Hedman Shorties/MF SS Y & Muff, E4OD, Man hubs, KYB Quads, 31x10.5x15, 313K miles
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If you get the Poly-Bushings get the Black Graphite impregnated ones they will be quieter than the Red ones. Just an FYI. I haven't heard a Peep outta mine and my ride quality is great.
 

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I wish I'd gotten those.

However, I liberally coated mine with the poly grease they sent with them as per instructions, and after 4 years, they don't squeak at all fortunately.
 
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I wish I'd gotten those.

However, I liberally coated mine with the poly grease they sent with them as per instructions, and after 4 years, they don't squeak at all fortunately.
Well since they cost the same and the Black ones have an extra added benefit ya might as well get them, unless you have a thing for Red ones. It's always good to know the difference before making the purchase.
 

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1996 EB, 351w, stock-ish.
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i've done it on the car and with the beams removed. it's definitely easier with the parts removed.

looks like abandoned bronco is doing most of the work for removing the beams - which is what you'd really need to do if you want to leave them in and not fight the entire time.

i have found it helpful to loosen the radius arm bushings to help get the TTB back in place.

no matter what method you use, those poly TTB bushings are going to be a big pain in the ass. holy hell.
 

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MidlifeCrisisUndrWay
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
no matter what method you use, those poly TTB bushings are going to be a big pain in the ass. holy hell.
Installing them?
 

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MidlifeCrisisUndrWay
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I've done these 3 or 4 times and have never removed the arms.

Break it down until you at least can remove the axles (the spindles will need to come off).

Then the arms will drop down far enough to expose the axle pivot bushings. I also highly suggest getting polyurethane bushings. I'm not a big fan of those normally because of the ride harshness they add, but these bushings are a pain to change, and you'll probably never have to replace poly bushings. Plus, you don't have to remove the metal sleeve from the old bushing. Just the rubber. I used a ball joint press with a big socket on it to push the old rubber out, and then a wire brush on a drill bit to clean the rest out. The poly bushing went right into the old sleeve and done.

View attachment 198783
So by just removing the pivot bushing bolt won't drop it far enough down to work on it?

The axle shafts have to be removed?
 

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no matter what method you use, those poly TTB bushings are going to be a big pain in the ass. holy hell.
??

Not sure what you mean.

What they're avoiding is the task of getting the old ones out. Removing that metal sleeve is a nightmare.
Every time I've done it, it was a royal pain getting those sleeves out. They're usually twisted and mangled by the time they're out.

Just removing the old rubber and putting the poly bushings in place is cake in comparison.
 
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So by just removing the pivot bushing bolt won't drop it far enough down to work on it?

The axle shafts have to be removed?
Technically, you can, and I've done it without removing the axle. But it was way harder as there's not much flex. I used crowbars to flex it barely enough to expose the bushing and had someone pull on the crowbar while I worked on the bushing. It really sucked.

I found it was better to break it down and do it right. Granted, I also did it with a bigger job of also doing wheel bearings, ball joints, etc. at the same time, so I already had it someone broken down.
 
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MidlifeCrisisUndrWay
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I like your simplicity method.:cool:

So; would I use something like this for your method:
View attachment 198801

BTW; can I safely assume there are two outer and one inner bushing in one bushing set here?👆
And what is the big bushing ring; an outer spacer?:unsure:
Does it matter which side the large ring is installed on?
On the side with the metal sleeve lip or non-lip side?
 

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If I recall, the large ring goes toward the front of the vehicle.
 
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