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Discussion Starter #1
This is my first attempt at doing a tech write up so don't be too hard on me. OK now that that is out of the way the first thing I did was set the truck on jack stands and remove the rear bumper and gas tank and trailer hitch. There's already a tech write up on the gas tank so I'm not going to post any pics of that.


The next thing I did was support the rear axle so that I could take off the U bolts for the leaf spring.


Then I took off the U bolts and let down the floor jack so that there was no tension on the leaf springs


Next I took off the two bolts on the front bracket


Then following some advice that someone had suggested on another thread I cut a slot in the middle of the rivet, this helped A LOT, I could not get to one of the rivets with the cut off tool and it took 5x longer than the ones with the reliefs cut in them


Here is the rivet head cut off


Here are the heads I used for the air chisel


Make sure you wear your glasses and ear plugs because there is tons of rust that's going to fly.


Here's a pic of the rivets punched out


Then I removed the leaf spring and front bracket. This sums up how I felt about it


Here's the rusty pos rear shackle


More relief cuts in the rear shackle rivets


All the rivet heads cut off


Here's how bad the rear shackle was rusted, I was probably one good bump away from the leaf spring crashing into the body


Here's the new leaf spring and shackles, these are the 1700lb springs from JBG



The new one looks a little better than the old one



Old shock and new bilstein


Before I cleaned up for the night I supported the axle on some wood blocks so it wasn't hanging


Well that's all there is to it, the new parts just bolt on in the old holes. I'm going to POR-15 the frame so it's going to be a few days before I put anything back on but I'll post some pics of the finished product in the next week or two. Thanks for looking and I hope this will help someone out.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I am painting the entire frame with POR 15 so I won't have to worry about rust ever again. These leaf springs do add about a 2 inch lift, and I'm replacing the front coil springs with superlift springs that add 2 inches so there is going to be a slight lift over stock.
 

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Im planning on doing this on mine, because the LH shackle is cracked.
My question is about the replacement shackles.
Since the stock ones look flimsy, are there stronger replacement shackles,
or do you have to buy the Ford ones?
AH
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Here is the parts that I ordered, They are definitely thicker than the stock mounts probably due to the rust eating them away. http://www.autoandtrucksprings.com/products/Ford_BRONCO_Full_Size_Spring_Hanger_Shackle_Assembly_Kit_Complete_Front_and_Rear_Position_Of_Rear_Suspension_BOTH_SIDES_fits_3_Wide_Leaf_Spring_FREE_SHIPPING-1430-161.html

Here are the leafs
http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-33250-rear-springs-stock-pair-.html

Someone on here said they replaced their shackles with F250 shackles
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I thought my hanger were bad but yours are almost gone. Also cutting an X in the rivet head make it even easier to cut off with the air hammer.
Yea I tried to cut X's in the rivet heads but I only got one, I couldn't get that angle with my cutoff tool so I was only able to get one slit cut in on most heads.
 

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Pretty good write up. Good pics.
I'm planning a shackle flip in the rear but, I haven't thought about the front hangers yet.
For the actual shackle (not to be confused with the bracket shown in the above pics) I was thinking of doing a hybrid rod end shackle to eliminate the springs twisting with one side stuffed & the other side at full droop.
For the rear shackle bracket, I got a set of 79 shackle flip brackets from Wild Horses (check out the new thread in vendor write up I think).
They were @ $150.00 by the time I paid for shipping but, much cheaper than springs. They come with grade 5 hardware, which is correct to allow for slight flex at the bracket.
The tech deparment guy at W.H.told me that these should give me about 4 1/2" of lift in the rear without sacraficing ride quality.
The only reason I decided not to go with the factory style stuff is because IMO, it looks a little flimsy. Unless you're just a pavement pounder, it looks very breakable. Besides, you have to got through just about all of the same steps listed above.
As far as cutting of rivets, I've had good luck with a pnuematic die grinder & a carbide burr. I just grind until I see the outside edge of the rivet start to turn bluish-purple. That way, I can drive out the rivet without marring the bracket below.
Sorry if I thread-jacked. Just puttin in my 2 cents.
 

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If you're not replacing the leaf spring then you don't have to take the entire spring off. Just remove the old hanger and/or shackle and put the new one on, jack the truck up to line up the spring and bolt together. You'll have to pry the spring where you want to get the bolt holes to line up but a large bar works fine. A lot less work than disconnecting the entire leaf spring which is often even more of a PITA due to the bolts getting siezed into the bushing's metal sleeve.

A properly sized air compressor (60 gallon 5hp 3 phase) with a good air chisel (Blue Point) beats grinding any day. Mine eats rivets all day. Bolts, not so much.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yea I'm putting POR 15 on the entire frame and I wanted to get above the tank and do the skid plate and gas tank, plus I didn't want to be grinding near the gas tank. It only takes about 15 mins to remove the tank anyways so I thought better safe than sorry.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
i have to do this same exact thing to my truck and was looking at the 1700lb spring from jbg. How does it ride with the new springs???
I will let you know tomorrow, I haven't driven it yet. I just painted the gas tank tonight so I'm waiting for it to dry then I'm putting the hitch on, tank in and bumper back on tomorrow afternoon. It should sit a little lower with the weight of the bumper, a full tank of gas and the hitch back on. I'll take more pics of the height difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
gotcha yea painting i def agree its necc. i did both my rear hangers 45 mins a side. and just left the tank in..def a geat write up.. truck looks nice.. post pics up when u get the front lifted id like to see that
I sure will, gas tank is going in within the next hour, I'm gonna do another write up for the front so stay tuned :popc1:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I only took it to the gas station and back today, about 5 miles, but the ride was very nice. The roads are all pretty smooth around here so I can't really say how it's going to be on bumpier roads yet. I ordered the new front shock towers yesterday so as soon as they get here I'm gonna get to work and get the front level with the rear. Right now it has a nice rake, It actually looks pretty damn sweet with the rear raised up a little more than the front.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Here's some more pics of everything finished up
Gas tank POR 15 topcoated with rustoleum flat black









Here's how it sits with a full tank of gas, and the bumper and hitch back on
 

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Discussion Starter #19
My bolts came right out of the gas tank, It's really simple to do just the 8 bolts, the electrical connection, and the 3 lines on top of the tank. It only took about 15 mins to get the tank out of there.
 

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i'd drill the rivets out. just center punch them and start small and drill up. no fighting a grinder or listening to an air chisel. just drill deep enough to cust the head off.
 
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