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ate lug
88 + 96 broncos, 96 F250
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Discussion Starter · #481 ·
I used the lube that came with the cam.
i cranked the pump over a little before start, maybe not enough.
It never really ran right because of mistakes i made with the tune, so i was never able to properly break in the cam. Its possible i wiped the cam out on day one and didnt know.
 

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Ok that could have contributed,possibly. I'm sure a small amount of running (a few minutes) might not hurt the cam but I would want to do the break in ASAP once it starts.

I always prime them on the stand with the intake and valve covers off. I made a priming tool, just bought a cheap long 1/4 extension and welded a 5/16 6 point socket to it. Bought a cheap mechanical oil pressure gauge that i watch when priming with a drill. Once i see all rockers are oiling i call it good. Then clean and install intake.
 

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ate lug
88 + 96 broncos, 96 F250
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9,060 Posts
Discussion Starter · #483 · (Edited)
Yeah i fought with the tune for several days until i figured out what i did wrong, so lots of excessive cranking before first fire.
At the time i didnt have a mechanical gauge altho i bought one later while troubleshooting. I guess next time i will run the shit out of the pump with the mech gauge hooked up, just to make sure its good before it even goes in. Honestly never thought of running the pump on the stand with the valve covers & intake off but thats a good idea.

i posted this on the other site.
the crank is scored up pretty bad. Its already -.010, but its gonna need another .010-.020 to get it cleaned up i think


At what point do i cut my losses on the crank? I have another, and it will need cleaned up, but its not nearly as bad as this.
 

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Honestly to my untrained crosseyes that doesn't look like .010 more would clean it up.

I would do some measuring on that other crank and possibly use it if it's standard standard or if it would clean up with just a polish.You do need to confirm it's external balance as well, to be interchangeable with the current one.(I assume it's a late model external balance?)

I don't know if the current one would be salvageable but some mic-ing will tell the tale.
 

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ate lug
88 + 96 broncos, 96 F250
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9,060 Posts
Discussion Starter · #485 ·
Im dropping it all off at the machine shop Friday, but the spare crank looks really good actually, I'm thinking just a cleanup and stock bearings. It's the same crank; the second motor is a 95 so same block, crank, rods, and cam. So kinda lucky there because I'm not sure my original crank is salvageable. We'll find out soon enough.

I'm thinking the cam/lifter failure is the root cause. It makes sense since I really never got it broken in properly, and the oil filter got changed so frequently I don't think it really had any time to gather metal. The final filter was full of metal, just like the pan.

I still don't understand why those pushrods are chipped though.
 

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ate lug
88 + 96 broncos, 96 F250
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9,060 Posts
Discussion Starter · #487 ·
Yeah you're probably right.

So I dropped the motor back off at the machine shop Friday morning. He's in agreement with me that the cam is the root cause of the failure.
He's going to order a new cam and lifters, and new pushrods. Heads are ok so I'm just going to clean them real good. Block he thinks will clean up with a hone. We're going with the 'new' crank since he thinks it will clean up with just a polish so we can stay with standard bearings.

I don't know what to do about the oil cooler. It is no doubt full of metal from the bearings, and I'm not sure how to flush it out. There is a transmission shop down the road from me so I'm probably going to stop there Monday and see if they can do it, otherwise I guess I'm going to have to replace it just to be safe.
 

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A friend of mine has a transmission shop and he has a rig to flush coolers out. He says they're good to go after flushing so i would be confident in it if you have them flush it.

Maybe ask them to flush both directions too just to be sure. I over do things can't you tell?

What oil did you originally use for break in?

There are lifters available with oil holes in the face to help lube them and some people will take the inner valve springs out for break in and then put them back in,but thats a ton of work.

Could go hydraulic roller 😀
 

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ate lug
88 + 96 broncos, 96 F250
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9,060 Posts
Discussion Starter · #489 ·
I was using Royal Purple for break-in. The 'final' oil was Rotella 15w40 because I was out of oil and I already knew there was something wrong.

I was actually looking up the conversion to roller lifters yesterday :ROFLMAO:
 

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ate lug
88 + 96 broncos, 96 F250
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Discussion Starter · #491 ·
It was actual break-in oil. Bought 18qts of the stuff and ended up using all of it troubleshooting the engine.
 

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1988 XLT 5.0L, C6 trans, BW1356 transfer case manually shift with manual stock hubs
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Nice work, you get more done than I have. I only get about 6 hours/week on mine, just work too much and still have house chores to do. But I'm making progress and your killing it, I'll definitely keep watching to see the final result.
 

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78 & 92
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I have had good luck with HydoRollers in the engine I have used them in.

Dont really have anything to add other then, at least, kind of, you found something after pulling the engine. Sucks for sure but better then a no root cause situation.
 
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ate lug
88 + 96 broncos, 96 F250
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Discussion Starter · #495 · (Edited)
Yeah, sucks, but it is what it is i guess. At least i know what went wrong.

I was talking to the machine shop today about possibly switching to this cam:
He's gonna run the numbers and see how it compares on a graph to the original cam i picked out (link) because im not very good at reading cam specs. If the numbers look good i will probably switch.
 

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Ultra Premium Member
1996 EB w/5.8 TOO much lift, 44" Mudders & 5:43-5:38's
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I think something with a little less duration, 200°-212° @ .050 duration might provide better low end torque for your application, more like your first cam picked. Usually, the longer the duration, the higher the rpm where the cam makes it's power, therefore short duration cams are good for low speed torque & throttle response, but I'm sure your engine builder will point you in the right direction.
For what it's worth, Comp Cams used to have a program called Cam Quest that you could download from their website that allowed you to plug in your engine specs and it shows you the cams available for your application needs.

Just my $0.02
 
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ate lug
88 + 96 broncos, 96 F250
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Discussion Starter · #497 ·
ok, interesting.
Im not opposed to staying with my first cam, but i figured if i can switch to roller i suppose i should. Most of Comp Cams roller cams are more for 10:1, high rpm motors so unless we find something at least as good as the original cam im going to stick with that one, and just try harder to get it broken in properly next time.

I looked up that CamQuest program, but apparently its currently offline for 'maintenance & updating'. Shame cuz that wouldve been really cool to play with.
 

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mission creep i know....
You could water down that roller cam with a stroker kit... just saying
 
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ate lug
88 + 96 broncos, 96 F250
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Discussion Starter · #499 ·
So i opened up my Kaase oil pump, and she's pretty rough:






Looks to me like this will be getting replaced as well.

I took the oil cooler off the cast filter adapter, but i cant get any of the plugs out. Its pretty rough around the edges from being on a plow truck for who knows how long. So unless i can get another, i may have to ditch the oil cooler.



mission creep i know....
You could water down that roller cam with a stroker kit... just saying
Man, how cool would that be!
The fact that i have a spare crank is saving me some cash, because if i was replacing the crank with a new one i would go stroker. But man, the costs are adding up fast! Thankfully i have unlimited OT at work cuz building a motor twice really hurts the wallet!
 

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1996 EB w/5.8 TOO much lift, 44" Mudders & 5:43-5:38's
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I looked up that CamQuest program, but apparently its currently offline for 'maintenance & updating'. Shame cuz that wouldve been really cool to play with.
I checked and they replaced it with a live chat or email
 
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