Bronco Forum - Full Size Ford Bronco Forum banner
401 - 420 of 428 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,455 Posts
Wonder if the self tuning is better than MS2. I got one of these for the Capri, but never installed it.
(still running quarterhorse). I've heard the self tuning wasn't all that on MS2, and with SD, would be
tough without a self tuning setup.

 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,455 Posts
The PimpX and MS2 are basically the same hardware and use the same tuning software. I noticed that PimpX offers a MAF package.
PimpX does say MS3 , and I bought MS2 (all they had in plug and play EEC 4 at that time). I've heard/read that MS feedback loop was not real time, literally tuning itself, and had to be messed with after the fact. I haven't tried the MS2 with whatever feedback tuning it has, due to time and fear it take a lot longer than I'd hoped when I bought it.

Since an EFI 460 virtually has an "carb" type lower intake, I would just go one of the throttle body routes. Can get the whole system for what the MS costs.
At least with a quarter horse, you can bring an extra stock EEC and swap over 1/4 horse. If have have to be tuned with a different SD EEC, you lose the
ability to use stock EEC as backup. For me, might as well get a holley and now you have you complete choice earlier heads, intakes, and carb style air cleaners
if you choose (also can tell if inj firing with TB, which is nice when stuff goes south on the trail).
 

·
ate lug
88 + 96 broncos, 96 F250
Joined
·
8,962 Posts
Discussion Starter · #404 ·
The only way for me to go TB now is to buy the adapter to go from EFI lower to carb, and then drop a TB on top. My EFI heads are in and already cut for valves so im committed to EFI heads/intake/headers.

Im hoping i dont have to do any tuning at all, but from what ive read about the PimpX everyone seems to love it. And as @Hillbilly Heaven mentioned itll support sequential injection & MAF if i want to upgrade later. I agree that a Sniper/Dominator would prob be better, but theres a lot more to it than just dropping a TB on; id basically be rewiring half the truck again and redoing the fuel system, etc. Dont forget you cant put EFI headers on carb heads so theres that expense too. The costs add up quick. Id like to stay stock EEC if i can since ive got a spare one, but i figure if i have to tune it the PimpX seems the easiest way for me to get it back on the road.
 

·
Premium Member
92 Bronco, 408 Stroker, 6R80, 4" lift, 9 inch, ARB lockers, 4.56 gears, Bassani exhaust
Joined
·
701 Posts
My brother has a dyno in Thurmont. Keep that in mind if you don't have a hook up.
 
  • Like
Reactions: reptillikus

·
ate lug
88 + 96 broncos, 96 F250
Joined
·
8,962 Posts
Discussion Starter · #407 ·
So i called FedEx yesterday, because my package never showed up Saturday. Well, guess what showed up today:


:cool:

If all goes well, Monday ill have the refresh of the doubler done, and then i can start on the trans :cool:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,455 Posts
Well, it's Tues...........:p
 
  • Like
Reactions: SHOme

·
ate lug
88 + 96 broncos, 96 F250
Joined
·
8,962 Posts
Discussion Starter · #409 ·
Yeah yeah :ROFLMAO:

Ok, i finished refreshing the NP203/205 doubler.

All degreased:
Picture


NP203 range box removed:
Picture


Seeing as this kit is from 2005, the intermediate shaft is a stock shaft cut down & resplined, as opposed to a new 4340 shaft that most kits use now. Fortunately, the shaft still looks good:
Picture


Ok, lets get this thing cleaned up!
Picture


Picture


Picture


..and done! All cleaned up, new output shaft seals, new shift rail seals, and a fresh coat of paint!
Picture


Next up is the transmission...
Picture
 

·
ate lug
88 + 96 broncos, 96 F250
Joined
·
8,962 Posts
Discussion Starter · #410 ·
The transmission shift kit is done as well. This actually wasnt all that bad to do.
So, i ordered a Transgo shift kit, and a lubelocker pan gasket:
Picture


This shift kit is hilarious. Its like 5 springs and a piston!
Picture


I guess if it aint broke, dont fix it right? So theres not a whole lot of work to do here, but it requires removal of the valvebody to do it. This is entirely possible to do with the trans installed, but since ive already got it out, i opted to do it with it upside down on the cart.

Pan off:
Picture


Filter removed. The bolts are varying lengths, so keep track of which one goes where.
Picture


Remove these 6 bolts, and the entire valve body can be removed from the trans. This allows the whole shift kit install to be done on the bench, w/o fear of losing anything.
Picture


Valve body facing right-side up. These two steel plates need to be removed, as all the modifications will be done behind them
Picture


Be careful, just about everything is spring loaded:
Picture


Here's everything removed, and laid out in the order of assembly. Of note at the red arrow, is the accumulator spring, which in my case is broken! This affects the 1-2 shift, so its a good thing ive got it apart! The shift kit will replace this spring anyway, so no worries about getting a replacement.
Of note: in the top right corner of the pic is all the bolts that hold this plate in place. They are two different lengths so keep track of which is which.
Picture


Heres the breakdown for the smaller lower plate. We're going to replace the 2-1 scheduling spring with the new heavier orange spring, and then this can go back together:
Picture


Ok now we need to split the valve body. Remove these two bolts. Theyre different lengths so keep track of which is which:
Picture


Flip over, and remove remaining hardware. Again, keep track of which bolt goes where
Picture


Now we can remove the pressure regulator. This trans being an '88 is a 'late style', and it is retained via a small clip. The early model transmission had an external plate.
Picture


Close-up of clip. Dont lose it!
Picture


Pressure regulator removed, and disassembled. Discard old spring in favor of new blue one, then put it all back together
Picture


Picture
 

·
ate lug
88 + 96 broncos, 96 F250
Joined
·
8,962 Posts
Discussion Starter · #411 · (Edited)
On the back side, that steel plate needs to be removed so we can remove the valve plate. Once again, pay attention to bolt location
Picture


With the plate removed, we're going to drill this hole out to .110", with the supplied drill bit. its not in the directions, but i would recommend deburring afterwards since its a fluid path
Picture


New gasket to replace the old one. This was the worst part of the whole job; the old gasket was so old and brittle it was disintegrating as i was removing it, which make it quite a pain to remove.
Picture


Friggin finally!
Picture


Ok lets put this thing back together:
Picture


Reinstall plate plus two bolts. Finger tight only!
Picture


Flip over and reinstall springs/checkballs:
top left=ball
top right=spring w/ plunger
bottom left=ball
bottom right=spring w/ball
Picture


Carefully set top plate back on, and reinstall those 7 bolts. Again, finger tight for now. There is a window to look thru in the side, so you can verify the spring/ball combo is still in its proper place
Picture


Reinstall these two:
Picture


Now you can go back and properly torque all those bolts.
Once thats done, we can get back to this:
Picture


This is where most of the modifications are done:
Picture


Starting from the top:
  • install a new green spring in front of the cutback valve. (there was no spring there previously)
  • 1-2 shift gets a new white spring to replace old one
  • 2-3 shift gets new blue spring
  • (broken) accumulator spring gets replaced with new heavier one
  • servo valve gets discarded in favor for new one with no hole in it
...and back together she goes!
Picture


Make sure you put your bolts back in the correct order!
Picture


...And thats it! We can now set the valve body back in place and reinstall those 6 bolts we removed way back in the beginning:
Picture


In hopes of curtailing any future pan leaks, im using a lubelocker pan gasket:
Picture


Filter installed. Dont forget that pickup tube!
Picture


Ok, well, thats pretty much it! So i decided to slap some fresh paint on it while it was in the garage
Picture


Picture


Theres one more thing i decided to do while it was on the bench, and that's to adjust the band. I figured with the broken accumulator spring, it was probably going to need to be tightened.
Here is the adjuster:
Picture


This is actually quite easy to do. Loosen the jamb nut, torque the stud down to 120 in/lbs, then back off 1½ turns and retorque the jamb nut. That's it!

So that finishes up the transmission, aside from the front pump seal which i want to replace simply as preventative maintenance.
 

·
ate lug
88 + 96 broncos, 96 F250
Joined
·
8,962 Posts
Discussion Starter · #412 ·
ok one more update. This is minor, but has always bugged me.
Since the 460 was in a high GVWR truck, it got a different emissions system than the bronco did. That includes these small ports for the air pump which have been capped off forever, since i dont use that system.
Picture


I dont like looking under the hood and seeing capped off emissions ports even if theyre unused, so theyve got to go!
Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18 Show Content
Picture


This isnt a super thrilling update. But basically, i cut them off, and then welded the holes shut so no one will ever know they were there in the first place.
Picture


So now while im waiting on the motor, ive been putting together a shopping list of what i think might be everything left i need to put the motor back in, that hasnt already been ordered. Time to spend some money on RockAuto!
Picture


The one variable i have is the torque converter. I dont know the age of mine; its possible its original from '88, so i want to replace it but i dont know what to buy. Like, at all. Not sure if i should just get a stocker from Rock Auto, or if i should be calling transmission shops to get some fancy one. Still trying to figure that one out.
 

·
Premium Member
92 Bronco, 408 Stroker, 6R80, 4" lift, 9 inch, ARB lockers, 4.56 gears, Bassani exhaust
Joined
·
701 Posts
Nice write ups. I would go with a performance converter. It's just money you will make more:)
 
  • Like
Reactions: reptillikus

·
ate lug
88 + 96 broncos, 96 F250
Joined
·
8,962 Posts
Discussion Starter · #414 ·
Yeah it's a good thing in working the holiday, I'm gonna need those extra couple bucks! :ROFLMAO:

I'm in agreement that some kind of upgraded converter would probably be a good idea, I guess I just need to start looking around and see who offers them, what's good, etc
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,455 Posts
Nice write ups. I would go with a performance converter. It's just money you will make more:)
I would be careful with that. Converter that doesn't stall until a bazillion RPM creates a crapload of heat many times.
Do you know what factory stall on an EFI 460 was, probably pretty low.

That's not to say you can't get a better made one with close to same stall (if it ain't broke and all)
 

·
ate lug
88 + 96 broncos, 96 F250
Joined
·
8,962 Posts
Discussion Starter · #416 ·
I think it's around 1900. Looking at Summit, there's lots of options in that range. Don't think I want to go any higher. I found converters ranging from 10-12", and the C6 had 3 different pilot sizes so I need to verify what I've got and then go from there.
 

·
Ford Hoarder
78 & 92
Joined
·
7,614 Posts
Broader Performance Maybe worth calling. They have done my last 2 and I have been pleased. One is right a 2k rpm and the other 2400... no heat issues.
Jay got his start on plow trucks so will know better the most what your after (as in not talking to drag only mustang people).

Headers look nice de-emission-ed. Feel you on the slow progress but is what it is
 
  • Like
Reactions: reptillikus

·
Premium Member
92 Bronco, 408 Stroker, 6R80, 4" lift, 9 inch, ARB lockers, 4.56 gears, Bassani exhaust
Joined
·
701 Posts
I would be careful with that. Converter that doesn't stall until a bazillion RPM creates a crapload of heat many times.
Do you know what factory stall on an EFI 460 was, probably pretty low.

That's not to say you can't get a better made one with close to same stall (if it ain't broke and all)
That's what I meant. No way I'd put a stall on a Bronco.
 

·
ate lug
88 + 96 broncos, 96 F250
Joined
·
8,962 Posts
Discussion Starter · #419 ·
Broader Performance Maybe worth calling. They have done my last 2 and I have been pleased.

Headers look nice de-emission-ed. Feel you on the slow progress but is what it is
Ive read good things about them. If youve had good luck with them, thats all i need to hear. Ill give em a call later (y)

I dunno who made those headers, but they fit the chassis so well that i cant bring myself to replace them. Im beginning to run low on things to do while i wait on the motor. I know you know the feeling. But theres still a couple other loose ends to tie up. Im trying to plan far enough ahead that i can pretty much just drop the motor in as soon as its done, and have it running asap.
 

·
ate lug
88 + 96 broncos, 96 F250
Joined
·
8,962 Posts
Discussion Starter · #420 ·
The engine isnt back from the builder yet, but that doesnt mean i dont have things i could be doing. So lets do the things!

First up, lets clean that intake:
Picture


Primed & painted. Also in the background, is the non a/c idler pulley bracket, and the p.steering bracketry
Picture


Intake primed/painted with VHT's "Iron" Engine Enamel:
Picture


Accessory drive bracketry cleaned up and clear coated, looks like new!
Picture


Plenum is done as well:
Picture


Water pump + crank pulley/damper cleaned up and painted as well:
Picture


Stock cast aluminum valve covers blasted and painted with a textured black paint that i found in the back of my cabinet:
Picture


...and the oil cooler is now fully rebuilt as well too!
Picture
 
401 - 420 of 428 Posts
Top