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Charlie don't surf..
'92 Ford Bronco XLT
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@Jason2215, you've got duplicate threads..we need to kill one. you pick.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Yes I would recommend a real gauge although I don't have one in any of my trucks lol but it will give you an actual pressure reading and I dont like putting holes in the factory dash. Maybe floor mount with some sheet metal screws. Keep her running and enjoy her she loves the open road fix them axles and look into body work that engine has a few years at least left in her. It carbureted currently?
Yes sir. Manual choke...minor inconvenience. :)

I really like the look of the gauge pods on the pillar, but we'll see. I would like to get some real temp, oil, etc gauges in there. I really like the look of some I've seen on the forum and have some ideas.
 

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Charlie don't surf..
'92 Ford Bronco XLT
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Thanks! Yeah, I think I hit the post topic button one too many times being impatient.
no worries..I was able to merge them..carry on.
 

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It's going to be more expensive than you think. I know several guys who own / run restoration shops and they are all booked out for a year or more. Labor rate (depending on where you are located) is going to be AT LEAST $100 an hour. If you have rust in the floor pan bad enough to need replacement, I can almost guarantee you are going to have rot elsewhere. What about the rear wheel wells? Any rust there? JUST for body work, panel replacement, I would wager you've already moved PAST the $10K point IF you're talking quality work.

Rebuilding / refurbishing an engine, putting it back in etc? At a restoration shop - you're looking at an easy $5K (likely more).

Honestly - unless the truck has sentimental value, sounds like you'd be better off buying one in better shape. $12-15K will buy you a NICE Bronco - at least around here.
 

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It's going to be more expensive than you think. I know several guys who own / run restoration shops and they are all booked out for a year or more. Labor rate (depending on where you are located) is going to be AT LEAST $100 an hour. If you have rust in the floor pan bad enough to need replacement, I can almost guarantee you are going to have rot elsewhere. What about the rear wheel wells? Any rust there? JUST for body work, panel replacement, I would wager you've already moved PAST the $10K point IF you're talking quality work.

Rebuilding / refurbishing an engine, putting it back in etc? At a restoration shop - you're looking at an easy $5K (likely more).

Honestly - unless the truck has sentimental value, sounds like you'd be better off buying one in better shape. $12-15K will buy you a NICE Bronco - at least around here.
I'd jump for joy if :I found a place with only 100/hr labor rate. places here are hitting up to 200/hr now, 250/hr+ if their work consistently wins shows and such.
 

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I'd jump for joy if :I found a place with only 100/hr labor rate. places here are hitting up to 200/hr now, 250/hr+ if their work consistently wins shows and such.
Yeah - thing is though, once a shop gets that kind of exposure they pick and choose their jobs. And the EASIEST way to pick and choose is jack up the labor rate / cost.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
It's going to be more expensive than you think. I know several guys who own / run restoration shops and they are all booked out for a year or more. Labor rate (depending on where you are located) is going to be AT LEAST $100 an hour. If you have rust in the floor pan bad enough to need replacement, I can almost guarantee you are going to have rot elsewhere. What about the rear wheel wells? Any rust there? JUST for body work, panel replacement, I would wager you've already moved PAST the $10K point IF you're talking quality work.

Rebuilding / refurbishing an engine, putting it back in etc? At a restoration shop - you're looking at an easy $5K (likely more).

Honestly - unless the truck has sentimental value, sounds like you'd be better off buying one in better shape. $12-15K will buy you a NICE Bronco - at least around here.
I appreciate the feedback. Honestly though it's not all about the cost. Sure, I don't want to throw money around willy nilly, (if it's $5K to install a damn EFI system we'll have to look at taking care of that bad boy ourselves!) and I'm all about saving money where it makes sense (ie if it makes more sense to have seperate shops do seperate work) but I'm thankful to be in a place where I can utilize a professional's services. I'd love to have the time and knowledge to take care of everything myself and the stuff on the message board is really inspiring to watch what some of these guys can do. I've learned a ton in the last 8 months or so alone. I'm just not at a comfort level or a place in time where I can do a lot of it myself. I'm proud of what little we've done on our own so far.

You asked if the Bronco had sentimental value and the answer is yes and no. We found what we wanted and we bought it, it's in ok shape, if I'd found something else I'd have been fine. I knew it would take a lot of time and money to create what we want to create. I made memories on a 24 hour turn and burn to pick it up with one of my kids, tore the suspension and some of the drivetrain apart with my kids, will tear out and redo the interior with my kids. All the things I think we can do with the time and resources we have in order to enjoy it sooner rather than later. I'm sure more will be added to the list. My kids are almost driving age and it will be ready for them to enjoy, drive to prom, cruise through town with their buddies, all that. It didn't hold sentimental value then, but it does now and it will later, regardless of whether I can do all the work myself. So I'm not better off looking for something else. If I'd started off with a $15K Bronco, I promise you I'd have found a way to spend the money anyway. That whole story is in a build thread though, so rant over.

I was just looking for some advice on what I might need to talk to the shop about. There may be things that can get taken care of or checked out while its torn apart, however much or little that might be at this point. Ideas to throw around, etc. I've done my homework on the shop, have friends who have used his services and I'm comfortable moving forward. Hopefully that clears it up.

For the record though, I do anticipate the body and paint work to be between $10K-20K....any less would be great, but I don't expect that to be the case. There are a few rust issues to take care of.
 

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Yes sir. Manual choke...minor inconvenience. :)

I really like the look of the gauge pods on the pillar, but we'll see. I would like to get some real temp, oil, etc gauges in there. I really like the look of some I've seen on the forum and have some ideas.
Pillar pods look good but screwed under the dash looks bad but easy and functional. Just run a few screws in.

Manual choke an inconvenience? The electric ones go out in inconvenient times and you end up running a wire into the cab to run it. And they kick off to early as well and don't have a half choke setting for when you just ran into the gas station right down the road for a minute. Ya look like a fool when you flood it out.
 

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I appreciate the feedback. Honestly though it's not all about the cost. Sure, I don't want to throw money around willy nilly, (if it's $5K to install a damn EFI system we'll have to look at taking care of that bad boy ourselves!) and I'm all about saving money where it makes sense (ie if it makes more sense to have seperate shops do seperate work) but I'm thankful to be in a place where I can utilize a professional's services. I'd love to have the time and knowledge to take care of everything myself and the stuff on the message board is really inspiring to watch what some of these guys can do. I've learned a ton in the last 8 months or so alone. I'm just not at a comfort level or a place in time where I can do a lot of it myself. I'm proud of what little we've done on our own so far.

You asked if the Bronco had sentimental value and the answer is yes and no. We found what we wanted and we bought it, it's in ok shape, if I'd found something else I'd have been fine. I knew it would take a lot of time and money to create what we want to create. I made memories on a 24 hour turn and burn to pick it up with one of my kids, tore the suspension and some of the drivetrain apart with my kids, will tear out and redo the interior with my kids. All the things I think we can do with the time and resources we have in order to enjoy it sooner rather than later. I'm sure more will be added to the list. My kids are almost driving age and it will be ready for them to enjoy, drive to prom, cruise through town with their buddies, all that. It didn't hold sentimental value then, but it does now and it will later, regardless of whether I can do all the work myself. So I'm not better off looking for something else. If I'd started off with a $15K Bronco, I promise you I'd have found a way to spend the money anyway. That whole story is in a build thread though, so rant over.

I was just looking for some advice on what I might need to talk to the shop about. There may be things that can get taken care of or checked out while its torn apart, however much or little that might be at this point. Ideas to throw around, etc. I've done my homework on the shop, have friends who have used his services and I'm comfortable moving forward. Hopefully that clears it up.

For the record though, I do anticipate the body and paint work to be between $10K-20K....any less would be great, but I don't expect that to be the case. There are a few rust issues to take care of.

Fair enough. If it were me - for the rust repair / paint work - I'd look for local recommendations. You might have to wait a bit - but often the best shops are busy. Do you know any local people into hot rods / muscle cars etc? These are the people to ask when looking for someone to do paint and body work - ESPECIALLY rust repair. Me personally I'd ask for pictures during progress - for example, pictures of the rust they found (odds are there is more than you can see) and HOW it was repaired. (was the bare metal treated correctly, did they do any corrosion prevention treatment in the spots they were able to access that weren't rusted etc).

Some of the best people I know that do a lot of body panel replacement (rust repair) aren't actually painters or auto body techs -so that is something to keep in mind. If someone has experience in replacing rusted panels, they are often MUCH faster than shops that normally just do straight up panel replacement (insurance jobs) and don't do a lot of actual metal work.

HTH
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Fair enough. If it were me - for the rust repair / paint work - I'd look for local recommendations. You might have to wait a bit - but often the best shops are busy. Do you know any local people into hot rods / muscle cars etc? These are the people to ask when looking for someone to do paint and body work - ESPECIALLY rust repair. Me personally I'd ask for pictures during progress - for example, pictures of the rust they found (odds are there is more than you can see) and HOW it was repaired. (was the bare metal treated correctly, did they do any corrosion prevention treatment in the spots they were able to access that weren't rusted etc).

Some of the best people I know that do a lot of body panel replacement (rust repair) aren't actually painters or auto body techs -so that is something to keep in mind. If someone has experience in replacing rusted panels, they are often MUCH faster than shops that normally just do straight up panel replacement (insurance jobs) and don't do a lot of actual metal work.

HTH
Thanks! Yeah I had a pretty lengthy conversation with the guy after talking to a buddy that had him do some rust repair, paint, and suspension work on his old Chevy pickup. It's gorgeous. Before and after's are incredible and I don't need it near that nice. Haha. This was one of the only shops I was aware of around here that specialize in full restoration work. I wanted to avoid the body shop guys but there's plenty of those around here. Of course, we'll see what he says when he can actually take a look at it Friday. Never know!
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Pillar pods look good but screwed under the dash looks bad but easy and functional. Just run a few screws in.

Manual choke an inconvenience? The electric ones go out in inconvenient times and you end up running a wire into the cab to run it. And they kick off to early as well and don't have a half choke setting for when you just ran into the gas station right down the road for a minute. Ya look like a fool when you flood it out.
Oh I'm comfortable with it. I had a manual choke on my first car. My wife on the other hand complains about the extra step. I told her hey, maybe they'll make a comeback and when they do you'll be ready!
 

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The real decision is how much would it cost you to have this Bronco brought up to your desired standard and how much would it be worth after you have had it done? If you would be spending more money than the finished vehicle is worth you might consider finding one in better basic shape and adding the mods you want to that truck. Or you could figure what the finished product would bring and limit your investment to that amount (including the price of the truck originally). Or you could just say "What the hell" and do what you want with it regardless of price if the result pleases you. Actually, old cars are not a good investment "vehicle" unless you catch a real bargain. My basically stock '95 XLT is dent and rust free and cost me $5K three years ago. I have had offers to buy it since the day I got it for $10K.
100_3076.JPG
 

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78 Custom 460 NP435 NP205 Sniper EFI HyperSpark Ignition 4.56 Gears Front/Rear Grizzly Lockers
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If you want to know what spending 10k on your Bronco will look like, look at my turd. I have spent more than that on mine and it still looks like the $700 I paid for it. I haven't documented it like some guys do on here by using a spreadsheet, but I can add up most of it in my head and it's north of 18k. Jesus, lmao. I've done some of the work myself and had some of the work done by shops. Nothing is cheap whether you do it or someone else does it.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
If you want to know what spending 10k on your Bronco will look like, look at my turd. I have spent more than that on mine and it still looks like the $700 I paid for it. I haven't documented it like some guys do on here by using a spreadsheet, but I can add up most of it in my head and it's north of 18k. Jesus, lmao. I've done some of the work myself and had some of the work done by shops. Nothing is cheap whether you do it or someone else does it.
Man your Bronco is friggin awesome!

I don’t know how we all got into the whole money discussion other than some back and forth banter but it’s really not about that. Just looking for perspective before I meet w the shop. And again, your Bronco is awesome.:D
 

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Discussion Starter #37
The real decision is how much would it cost you to have this Bronco brought up to your desired standard and how much would it be worth after you have had it done? If you would be spending more money than the finished vehicle is worth you might consider finding one in better basic shape and adding the mods you want to that truck. Or you could figure what the finished product would bring and limit your investment to that amount (including the price of the truck originally). Or you could just say "What the hell" and do what you want with it regardless of price if the result pleases you. Actually, old cars are not a good investment "vehicle" unless you catch a real bargain. My basically stock '95 XLT is dent and rust free and cost me $5K three years ago. I have had offers to buy it since the day I got it for $10K. View attachment 168759
Beautiful Bronco but I think you’re missing the point. I’m not considering how much it will be worth when I’m done nor am I worried about how much someone will offer me for it. Again, at some point this turned into money and I’m just looking for input from folks that have had work done, whether it’s better to do everything at once, questions to ask, things to have them concentrate on, etc.

I appreciate the input but it’s not an investment vehicle.
 

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Beautiful Bronco but I think you’re missing the point. I’m not considering how much it will be worth when I’m done nor am I worried about how much someone will offer me for it. Again, at some point this turned into money and I’m just looking for input from folks that have had work done, whether it’s better to do everything at once, questions to ask, things to have them concentrate on, etc.

I appreciate the input but it’s not an investment vehicle.
ok, on that note, it depends on your plans. if it is a show truck, you strip it down and get the body work done at a shop while you do frame and mechanical. if it is a DD, then, get cancer removed and a decent paint job but no need to strip the truck. I don't do body work, or at least haven't, so I'll get a prof to remove rust and straighten it , may try to paint it up myself.

I would however if I am taking it in to get work done on part of the body, to get it all done, would be cheaper in the long run to do it in one pass body wise. for a DD, same. and you tackle mechanical/electrical issues as you can, but only in small parts to keep it driveable, and weekends you use for bigger projects, but have t hem planned out in advance, like I am doing on the sniper install for mine. a rebuild is a bit more difficult, it is quickest if you can score another block to build, and do an engine change, or least a short block swap.

it sounds like there may be some significant body work to get done, something that will take weeks/months? In that case, pull the engine and interior like you are thinking, get things reupholstered, rebuild the motor, paint interior panels etc that you want while it is at the shop. then get it home and start putting things back together (first motor and electricity, then interior). if you are going to that part, def have them take care of ALL rust/cancer in the body. may even be worth pulling the body off so that you can get the frame cleaned up. why drop a nice pretty better than new body onto a 30 year old rusted and beat up frame? also allows you to replace worn bushings, body and suspension, easily, and look for potential issues, like cracks, broken welds, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Thanks man! Yeah I want him to look over the frame but honestly I THINK (hope) my only significant issue is the front passenger floorboard. Almost seems like something was leaking there because the rest of it looks pretty dang solid. I haven’t taken the carpet out yet but underneath looks pretty healthy. Nooks and crannies I can shine a light on look healthy. Other than that, a few small dents that will show especially w new paint.

I really considered finding another block or getting a long block but I don’t know, I kind of want to keep the original if I can. Sentimental I guess! Honestly if it just needs some seals replaced to get it through another few years that’s fine too. It runs really good if you ignore all the fluids going everywhere! Haha. It’s not that bad, but I can’t justify making her pretty and letting her spit up all that. :)
 

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Driving Stuff Henry Built
-90 xlt, 351w, e4od, man 1356, 3.55, sag, warn hubs, 35s. -73, 400, np435, d20j twin, 35s
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3. (This is a WANT at this point) 4.11/4.10 gear install rear/front. Just installed the 35's and it currently has 3.50's. Plus my front housing is leaking...
Usually 4.11s are recommended for 33s & 4.56s for 35s. It's not 100%, but that's the typical combo. Here's a good gear ratio calculator. You enter your setup, & you can do a side by side comparison with variations.
 
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