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Discussion Starter #1
I bought this a month ago and have been chasing an apparent short ever since. This thing has been through 3 batteries in the month. Every time I had the electrical check it pointed to the battery. When i bought it it had a new alternator and battery, that one died so I got a new one, better one and that one died. When they tested uit they said bad battery soI got a warranty exchange. this am......dead.

I am confident that I found my short (old CB wiring and trailer wiring that i completely removed as bare wire was touching the frame). But had the electrical tested again and alternator was only cranking out 12 volts.

So I think the prior owner had a cheap alternator put on that is consuming batteries. So what is the right alternator?
 

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crank trigger
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if your alt turns out to be some pos, upgrade to a 3g and be done with it. if you do some searches on 3g alt swaps you will find lots info. it is easy.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I am hoping i is. Prior owner replaced alt (ebuilt Paladium 75 amp crap) BEFORE replacing battery so based on a tech sheet for the alt, that may have caused it to overheat.

Looking into the 3g now.

Thanks!!!!!
 

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Can I put a 3G on a 78 Bronco?
 

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Practicing Infidel
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ScorpionBoy said:
if your alt turns out to be some pos, upgrade to a 3g and be done with it. if you do some searches on 3g alt swaps you will find lots info. it is easy.
Yes, and do it now before you have to spend another dime on the old POS 2G style alternators.

You'll be glad you did

Sixlitre
 

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i did the 3G and will never go back almost all the electric issues i had are gone. the volts sit on 14 95% if i got heat on full and lights and wiper and turn it sometimes flexes between 14-12.5 volts but the dash guage says it is charging without issue and never fails in the discharge side.....mike
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well, weak alt tested out fine so i am not so sure my isue is the alternator. I must have a short somewhere......dammit!!!!
 

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Are you sure your battery has the right cranking amps. I had one that was rated for 600 and it would all ways make trouble for me and the truck. Finally bought one that was rated 1000 cranking amps and it is good to go.

What is involved with the 3g swap.? I have some issues with the wiring I have with mine now. And will it eliminate the voltage regulator?
 

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Ign key off. Pull the neg from the batt, hook an ammeter (or multimeter set to amps) in series w/ground and batt neg, and see what, if any, drain you're getting on the batt.

If you're getting a drain on the batt, start pulling fuses one at a time (radio first) until the drain stops. That might be your problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
marv said:
Ign key off. Pull the neg from the batt, hook an ammeter (or multimeter set to amps) in series w/ground and batt neg, and see what, if any, drain you're getting on the batt.

If you're getting a drain on the batt, start pulling fuses one at a time (radio first) until the drain stops. That might be your problem.
I did this the poor mans way by checking spark as I removed them. I know that is nowhere near accurate but it was a start. All sparked fine.

The prior owner did not change the connection when he changed the alternator so I checled that and sure enough it was in bad shape. I changed it and I am getting much better power, on high idle or acceleration, but it is also dropping off much worse at idle. So I am getting better power but have a worse drop off now at idle.
 
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