Bronco Forum - Full Size Ford Bronco Forum banner

41 - 60 of 95 Posts

·
Registered
1986 Eddie Bauer 5.0EFI AOD Full length headers Y pipe into single 3" Magnaflow 3" factory exit
Joined
·
529 Posts
Yeah this factory EFI is a pain, but i am giving it a chance before I ditch it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,049 Posts
i am reeeeally leaning towards the holley sniper efi. Then throw me a period correct 5.8 air cleaner on it and you wouldnt know.
I just ordered everything for the sniper today. since you have the 5.0, you don't need to replace the sending unit like I did, or rewire it. I would change the pump to the walpro in tank that I see many recommend. All told I think it is going to run me about 1600-1700 for all the parts, but about 250 of that is in new fuel lines I am going to build using earl's vapor guard and fittings. you could probably get by for 1300-1400 since many of your stuff isn't changing, and some of the things I did are not required (my tank straps were missing, I'm putting in a tank access panel, that was about 130 bucks, need mechanical fuel pump cover which you don't need I think, )
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,049 Posts
where abouts are you located, noticed you said deep south, I am as well, Louisiana here.
 

·
Registered
1986 Bronco Eddie Bauer 5.0 bone stock
Joined
·
181 Posts
Discussion Starter #44
where abouts are you located, noticed you said deep south, I am as well, Louisiana here.
Im in Northeast LA, near Monroe.

I have researched and the inline pump i have should work fine, it is brand new along with a new tank and sending unit etc. I can get a factory refurbed 2 barrel for 749 from holley or a refurb 4 bbl for 799. I know ill need some odds and ends to make it all work, but without having to run any lines or a pump that should be minimal. I feel like i can get it all in there for under 1k. Of course, i have been wrong before.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,049 Posts
Im in Northeast LA, near Monroe.

I have researched and the inline pump i have should work fine, it is brand new along with a new tank and sending unit etc. I can get a factory refurbed 2 barrel for 749 from holley or a refurb 4 bbl for 799. I know ill need some odds and ends to make it all work, but without having to run any lines or a pump that should be minimal. I feel like i can get it all in there for under 1k. Of course, i have been wrong before.
should be good to go then, the 5.0s have two pumps right? a low pressure in tank and high pressure in line? you'll need to modify your fuel lines, the holley takes AN-6 fittings, but that's just a few fittings.

is it just disappointment with the factory EFI, or has it stopped working and cheaper to go with the holley setup than to repair the OEM?
 

·
Registered
1986 Bronco Eddie Bauer 5.0 bone stock
Joined
·
181 Posts
Discussion Starter #46
should be good to go then, the 5.0s have two pumps right? a low pressure in tank and high pressure in line? you'll need to modify your fuel lines, the holley takes AN-6 fittings, but that's just a few fittings.

is it just disappointment with the factory EFI, or has it stopped working and cheaper to go with the holley setup than to repair the OEM?
You are correct, 2 pumps and both of these are new. The factory one does work.. but its going to need new injectors, the injector wiring is dry rotted, if it comes to a place where its going to cost me nearly as much to fix this one as it would to replace it with something much more modern that could handle any upgrades that i may do to it later on. Just a planning ahead type thing, but if i can get the old one up and going like new for 2-300 bucks then ill just leave it as-is.
What part of LA you in?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,049 Posts
You are correct, 2 pumps and both of these are new. The factory one does work.. but its going to need new injectors, the injector wiring is dry rotted, if it comes to a place where its going to cost me nearly as much to fix this one as it would to replace it with something much more modern that could handle any upgrades that i may do to it later on. Just a planning ahead type thing, but if i can get the old one up and going like new for 2-300 bucks then ill just leave it as-is.
What part of LA you in?
makes sense, I had looked at factory EFI setups and couldn't justify the costs, guess if you're having to replace it all, going with that holley makes alot more sense. I'm just south of Baton rouge. I really have to get my truck back on the road tonight with a cat 2-3 storm bearing down on us before this weekend.
 

·
Registered
1986 Bronco Eddie Bauer 5.0 bone stock
Joined
·
181 Posts
Discussion Starter #48
makes sense, I had looked at factory EFI setups and couldn't justify the costs, guess if you're having to replace it all, going with that holley makes alot more sense. I'm just south of Baton rouge. I really have to get my truck back on the road tonight with a cat 2-3 storm bearing down on us before this weekend.
Man I hope not, it’s somebody else’s turn! Be safe down there.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,797 Posts
Nothing wrong with the factory efi on 85-86s. No weak links. Only restriction is the e6 heads but some guys like sixlitre have squeezed 21 mpg out their truck babying it with them. Power wise the long block is the restriction not the efi. Everyone on FSB is for keeping the factory efi. Nothing devalues your bronco as well as a carb swap. On your injector wiring damage all you need to do is splice on new injector pigtails.

Explorer injectors; roller block; gt40 heads; serpetine belt system are all good upgrades ones should look for. If you have a efi 351 then edelbrock intake too. 3" mandrel bent exhaust and bassani headers. IF you wanted more power then aftermarket engine parts would be that; including a maf conversion using ford parts. Your accessories upgrade; 3g large case alternator; saginaw PS; bluetop/redhead gear box is generally what people do on here. Just an FYI to help plan what funds or budget a restoration generally takes on. Back in the day we had more in our trucks than they are worth. But today especially with a clean example you can make some money on it when it's all done.
 

·
Registered
1986 Bronco Eddie Bauer 5.0 bone stock
Joined
·
181 Posts
Discussion Starter #50
Nothing wrong with the factory efi on 85-86s. No weak links. Only restriction is the e6 heads but some guys like sixlitre have squeezed 21 mpg out their truck babying it with them. Power wise the long block is the restriction not the efi. Everyone on FSB is for keeping the factory efi. Nothing devalues your bronco as well as a carb swap. On your injector wiring damage all you need to do is splice on new injector pigtails.

Explorer injectors; roller block; gt40 heads; serpetine belt system are all good upgrades ones should look for. If you have a efi 351 then edelbrock intake too. 3" mandrel bent exhaust and bassani headers. IF you wanted more power then aftermarket engine parts would be that; including a maf conversion using ford parts. Your accessories upgrade; 3g large case alternator; saginaw PS; bluetop/redhead gear box is generally what people do on here. Just an FYI to help plan what funds or budget a restoration generally takes on. Back in the day we had more in our trucks than they are worth. But today especially with a clean example you can make some money on it when it's all done.
I PLAN on using the original, been my plan the whole time, but as i mentioned if i go down this rabbit hole and it keeps getting too deep i will substitute it for a more modern system (even though TBI is not necessarily "modern" the system that its a part of truly is, with real time monitoring, simplicity, tunability, etc. Anything that improves reliability and drivability and done tastefully, usually won't hurt any value.
I have long been a fan of keeping this as orginal as possible, but one thing i have learned in my 5 restorations is that some items don't really effect the value, IF you do them correctly. (As far as drivers go, not a concours guy here, i like to enjoy vehicles not just look at them) If i was to swap out for the Sniper, i would keep the orginal EFI on a shelf, ready to hand off to the next person. Leave the original wiring intact, possibly tie into it for the new one if possible or necessary.
Bang for the buck, if i decided i wanted to drop a 347 stroker making 350 hp and 400tq the simplest, best, cheapest route to keep EFI is the Sniper (from what all i can tell anyway).
You mentioned the wiring pigtails on the injectors, i saw those. I need to do some more looking but my wires are all brittle, every one of them, if i bend one it cracks ( just in this injection wiring under the intake). I think id be better off replacing the whole thing if i can find a good used intact harness for 100 bucks.
Before i spend any money though i need to finish yanking this engine out and inspecting it, hope there's no surprises waiting for me and i can just clean things up, put a new gasket set on it, paint it, patch it, and put it back in as-is.
As far as resale goes, i never go into one of these projects without thinking about doubling my money (should i choose to). Since i do all the work myself it definitely saves tons of cash. However i may actually farm the paint out on this one, my painting skills are OK, but I don't have a good place to paint in, and with all the humidity here you really need a good climate controlled booth. Ill paint the underhood and door jambs, backsides of fenders, the top, and leave the rest for the booth, and someone with two tone painting skills.
 

·
Registered
1986 Bronco Eddie Bauer 5.0 bone stock
Joined
·
181 Posts
Discussion Starter #51 (Edited)
So, new twist to my story, maybe someone can help me out. It will be a couple of weekends before i can get in there and finish getting my engine out, just got my next weekend booked and work etc. I have really been wanting to peek inside this engine. I found a tidbit on another forum, said you can identify your cylinder heads by the letter cast on the passenger outside front corner of the head, mine has a big T on it, when i looked that up that said those were E7TE heads, which of course would mean that either we had cylinder heads replaced at one time OR the entire engine might have been replaced at one point. I don't know and the PO assumed it was the original engine. Can anybody on here confirm this "T" casting?

Edit: I just went and looked at the spark plug hole and it if that is the definitive way to tell aside from seeing the casting number, then these are definitely E7 heads, as it has a shallow spark plug, and the PO didnt know that because he put E6 spark plugs in it and i dont know how the thing was running with the electrode a half an inch higher in the cylinder!

Now i have a whole new list of questions, how, when where, why, what etc. Wonder if it was a new long block, or a junkyard yank, HO roller block, just a head swap? All kinds of fun stuff running through my brain.
 

·
Registered
1986 Bronco Eddie Bauer 5.0 bone stock
Joined
·
181 Posts
Discussion Starter #52 (Edited)
Okay, one more update, i read that you can read the VIN stamped onto the back of the topside of the block behind the intake. So, i went out there and wire brushed and brake cleaned that area off and could vaguely make out GL then a space and a 40....then it kind of fades to where i cant read the rest without pulling the engine so i can look close. Now, having said that, my VIN has GLA40136 at the end of it, so that would only lead me to belive that THIS is the original engine, even though it is an 86 it has an engine with E7 heads and eyebrowed pistons (I rolled number 1 to TDC and peeked in the plug hole and can clearly see eyebrows on these pistons). SO...maybe there was a point in 86 where they said "NOPE no more of these E6 heads, lets use the new NEW ones" ???
Maybe I got lucky.

The only other logical explanation is the original owner had a rebuild done and swapped out for some eyebrowed pistons and E7 heads, maybe he dropped a valve in the original and bashed a head or something? I seem to attract oddball things. I had a 70 skylark that had a misprinted vin on it, and no it wasnt a hack job that was stolen lol, that thought crossed my mind, but after studying it with some experts we all agreed it was a factory oopsie (after we verified the correct vin by locating the original build sheet...lucky!)
 

·
Registered
1986 Bronco Eddie Bauer 5.0 bone stock
Joined
·
181 Posts
Discussion Starter #53
Finally got the engine out!! What a day. I finally got a weekend with a few hours to work. I just yanked the whole thing out, tried to get it with the cats attached but that didn’t work so I got the sawzall out and buzzed that off. The manifolds are cracked and was going to do headers and an off-road y pipe anyway.
169232


169233


169235
 

·
Registered
1986 Bronco Eddie Bauer 5.0 bone stock
Joined
·
181 Posts
Discussion Starter #54
Update, I got the engine on the stand and apart and from what I can tell it’s going to be just fine. Lucky it was an 85 engine and not an 86 just need to decide if I just want to re seal it and stick it back together or give it an overhaul.
going to take the transmission for a rebuild and try to get my engine bay all detailed so I can go back together with it and get the body ready for paint.
 

·
Registered
1986 Eddie Bauer 5.0EFI AOD Full length headers Y pipe into single 3" Magnaflow 3" factory exit
Joined
·
529 Posts
Its already out, may as well freshen up the bearings, rings, valve seals, timing chain, while you're this far! Careful its a slippery slope tho.... Yeah you're right, just re-seal it up and run it!!
 

·
Registered
1986 Bronco Eddie Bauer 5.0 bone stock
Joined
·
181 Posts
Discussion Starter #56
Its already out, may as well freshen up the bearings, rings, valve seals, timing chain, while you're this far! Careful its a slippery slope tho.... Yeah you're right, just re-seal it up and run it!!
Oh i know how slippery it can get! The PO just put a new water pump and timing chain on. I did something similar on my mustang a few years back, it ran fine but i just inspected the bottom end and refreshed the top end and sealed it back up with some gaskets. i just need to mike the cylinders and see where im at on bore, i still some a hint of the crosshatch in the bores and it wasnt smoking and the tops of the pistons have the usual carbon and the valves are nice and clean (aside from the one that wasn't firing due to the injector wire being broken). I would only spend the money on rings and bearings and boring etc if i was going to hoop it up some, and that's not in the cards for right now.
 

·
Registered
1986 Eddie Bauer 5.0EFI AOD Full length headers Y pipe into single 3" Magnaflow 3" factory exit
Joined
·
529 Posts
Oh yes, that is why my corvette isn't dont yet, one thing turned into full on frame off restoration!! I'm trying not to do that to the Bronco, but man do I want to!! I need a 5 car garage is all i know!!:ROFLMAO:
 

·
Registered
1986 Bronco Eddie Bauer 5.0 bone stock
Joined
·
181 Posts
Discussion Starter #58
Another weekend with limited time to work on projects, but i did manage to push the bronco out of my shop and soaked the engine bay, frame, suspension, everything with degreaser...multiple times then i hit it with the pressure washer, then i did it again. Got everything pretty clean, would like to do it one more time though for good measure. I also took my lower intake down to our farm where we have a hot water pressure washer and hosed it down, it cleaned it up ok, but its far from looking new.

I plan on taking the transmission to get rebuilt this week, i was going to ask them if they could stick my upper and lower intake in their hot water washer and give them a good cleaning. Maybe ill get lucky, if they look good i may just leave them natural, but if they are still kinda stained up ill probably give them a few coats of high heat paint, well see.

I purchased a little porting kit for my dremel so i can clean up the intake ports on my heads and intake, also do a little dressing on the exhaust ports as well. Im not going to hog them out, just do some port matching. I'm really REALLY torn on this engine. I KNOW i can put it back together and it will run fine...because it was running fine when i took it apart aside from the miss from the bad injector wire. BUT i can also get a new assembled ROLLER engine for about 1500 bucks with a warranty, then ill have new engine and transmission and wont have to worry about it. Just seeing how the money shakes out.
 

·
Registered
1986 Bronco Eddie Bauer 5.0 bone stock
Joined
·
181 Posts
Discussion Starter #59
Did some more degreasing and cleaning. Painted the inner frame and degreased my engine and spiffed up my lower intake.
170457

170458
 

·
Registered
1986 Bronco Eddie Bauer 5.0 bone stock
Joined
·
181 Posts
Discussion Starter #60 (Edited)
I also got my transmission loaded in the back of the truck, going to take it to get a rebuild done. I also replaced the valve seals on my heads last night, before i did that though i flipped them upside down and put some gas in the chambers and made sure i didnt have any leaky valves. BUT i did roll my short block around and i found 2 cylinders with some very light scratches near the bottom of the stroke, i would guess it is skirt scraches. I can barely feel them with my fingernail. Im considering ordering a new roller short block (or long block) and be done with it. I am ASSUMING a truck roller engine will work with my speed density computer, i welcome any input on that...

Also, some good news for once, i called a transmission shop a couple months ago when i got the bronco, they said 1100 plus tax to rebuild the transmission (best price i could find round here) I called them this morning and they said 900...soooo im not going to let them sleep on that one lol.
 
41 - 60 of 95 Posts
Top