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shibby
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When fabricating mounting brackets for sandwiching rod ends, what's the proper method of attaching the brackets to the crossmember to assure you're getting the proper clamping force when tightening the bolt?

In other words, I don't want to have to rely on the brackets to deflect inwards towards the rod end to have to eliminate any wallowing in the holes.

This will be for 1-1/4" rod ends with 3/4" misalignment spacers.
 

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scrounger extrordinaire
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if i follow you right, you want to make sure the brackets are close enough together to clamp and hold the misalignment bushings and bolt tight right? i would assemble the whole thing, tighten it down and weld it to the crossmember. is that what you mean? maybe just tack it and take it apart and weld it up with out the SRE in there to get splattered with weld. didnt you have bushings in your extended arms?? or was that Dustin?
 

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Cadillac of Men
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i took some DOM with the same ID has my joints, cut them to the correct mounting width of my joints and bolted my brackets together, and tack welded them on. then when i was happy with all the placement, I welded them on fully. After it was cool, I took the dummy joint sleeve out and did the next one.

i dont know if its the proper method, but the joints fit nice, the brackets dont deflect too much, and it made sense to me. also, my holes shouldnt wallow out, because I used the same DOM material to cut my own misalignment spacers out on a lathe. but I made them longer than usual, and the holes in my brackets I drilled out to fit the OD of the DOM. then I pressed the spacers in, and TIG'd them to the brackets. I had to spend more money on longer bolts, but the extra surface area should really help keep those brackets hunky dory.
 

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Dustball said:
Not me, wrong Dustin.

I'm going with a 1-link front and rear.
Are you sure a single 3/4" bolt is enough to locate the axle? And your gonna get enough articulation with that joint. IIRC, a rod end only gets you 37 1/2* of missalignment. Why not a grader ball? I have never been a fan of the missalignment sleaves either. Just trying to get a handle on what your planned project is;)
 

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shibby
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yup, I'm going to be using 3/4" F-911 bolts. 33-37 degrees would be more than enough IMO.
 

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Cadillac of Men
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binderbound said:
Are you sure a single 3/4" bolt is enough to locate the axle? And your gonna get enough articulation with that joint. IIRC, a rod end only gets you 37 1/2* of missalignment. Why not a grader ball? I have never been a fan of the missalignment sleaves either. Just trying to get a handle on what your planned project is;)

you kinda need the misalignment spacers to use all of that 37.5* of misalignment.
 

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SquattyD said:
you kinda need the misalignment spacers to use all of that 37.5* of misalignment.
He's using sleaves that take a non hi-miss joint and make it high miss alignment. making the hole 3/4" instead of 1 1/4". At least as far as I can tell anyway. Maybe when the rod end gets that big you have to use them.
http://www.summitmachine.com/jj.html

Atleast with these ^there are no sleaves. I cant seem to find the REALLY big rod ends right now.

If it were me, it would be grader ball for a 1 link and builder balls for any other link type suspension, but thats just me.

Honestly I have only used rod ends on my steering. I use the high miss FK's with the saftey washers. I get the 3/4" bolt and keep the high use angle.



BTW Dustball, I saw your thread on pirate but didnt see what joint you finally settled on.
 

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Cadillac of Men
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hows this for a big suspension joint?



i get what you are saying now. joints like the jimmy or johnny joint dont need spacers to get full travel out of them, because the uniball extends far enough so that the body of the joint doesnt hit during high misalignment situations. but my evolution heim joints (like the one in my hand above), are recommended to be used with spacers. im not sure what you mean about stepping down from 1 1/4" to 3/4". the spacers/sleeves i made side on either side of the joint, and they are pressed and welded into my brackets, gives the bolt more surface area so the brackets dont wallow out, and on my heims, gives them the misalignment spacer it needs.
 

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That's what I was talking about.sometimes its hard to get the idea from my brain to the keyboard and have it make sense:)

When I bought my 3/4"rod ends I asked for high miss.the guy gets a standard one and pops in these triangle spacers with sleaves on them.making the through hole 5/8 now.I never liked the idea of sleaving down a rod end.I'm sure its fine but I'm picky.

That evo joint is HUGE!if I don't run a grader ball an the big truck its gonna get one of those.
 

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Cadillac of Men
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binderbound said:
That's what I was talking about.sometimes its hard to get the idea from my brain to the keyboard and have it make sense:)

When I bought my 3/4"rod ends I asked for high miss.the guy gets a standard one and pops in these triangle spacers with sleaves on them.making the through hole 5/8 now.I never liked the idea of sleaving down a rod end.I'm sure its fine but I'm picky.

That evo joint is HUGE!if I don't run a grader ball an the big truck its gonna get one of those.

i gotcha. i just made my own, so no sleeve goes thru the joint.

yeah, the evo is a big joint. its still a 3/4" bolt (but with a 1 1/4" shank), same as the FK joint next to it. the FK is for my steering, and the evo is for my lower links. plus is has a plastic bushing inside, like a johnny joint, and its rebuildable.
 

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Dustball said:
When fabricating mounting brackets for sandwiching rod ends, what's the proper method of attaching the brackets to the crossmember to assure you're getting the proper clamping force when tightening the bolt?

In other words, I don't want to have to rely on the brackets to deflect inwards towards the rod end to have to eliminate any wallowing in the holes.

This will be for 1-1/4" rod ends with 3/4" misalignment spacers.
Maybe I'm dense, but I'm not sure what you're asking.
 

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scrounger extrordinaire
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SquattyD said:
hows this for a big suspension joint?



i get what you are saying now. joints like the jimmy or johnny joint dont need spacers to get full travel out of them, because the uniball extends far enough so that the body of the joint doesnt hit during high misalignment situations. but my evolution heim joints (like the one in my hand above), are recommended to be used with spacers. im not sure what you mean about stepping down from 1 1/4" to 3/4". the spacers/sleeves i made side on either side of the joint, and they are pressed and welded into my brackets, gives the bolt more surface area so the brackets dont wallow out, and on my heims, gives them the misalignment spacer it needs.
squatty, what did you use them huge end on? did you redo your rear arms with them? as i recall, the biggest thing you had was the ones with the cage/duff arms
 

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shibby
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
steveG said:
Maybe I'm dense, but I'm not sure what you're asking.
Familiar with clamping forces and the proper way to fasten?

Example- bolting tow hooks to your frame. You do not want to depend on the bolts to withstand the forces seen by jerking. You want to rely on the metal to metal clamping forces to distribute the load.

In my case, I do not want to rely on the bolt itself to locate the suspension, I want to make sure that the rod end is properly clamped in place. I'll be using 3/4" plate as my brackets and I don't want to depend on the plates to have to bend towards the rod end to clamp it in place. I'm thinking I'll bolt the plates to the rod end itself then weld the plates to my crossmember.
 

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Looks like an old Ford Truck suspension. I have a customer with a '37 (I think) Ford fire truck and it uses a very similar set up. On that truck, lateral movement is controlled by the leaf springs.



What part of that needs to be built out of 3/4" plate?
 
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