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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone,

I am replacing my pads, rotors and planned on doing the bearings and seals. I have taken everything out but cannot remove the hub from the rotor. There is a wheel looking thing that will not allow the hub and rotor to separate (picture). I hit the studs out, took the inner bearing and seal out but wheel thing will not budge. I tapped it a little from the opposite side, hoping it would come off but I did not. I searched here and YouTube but cannot find an answer, probably because I don't even know what it's called. How can I remove this and get the hub on my new rotor?
 

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if Ford didn't want it reused, they shouldn't have discontinued it, lol

It's not hard to get off, I just recently did all this in the end of summer. Give your wheel studs some smacks until they are loose and resting on the tone ring, then go in a circular pattern around the studs giving them light hammer taps until it pops off. Alternatively, I know Advance Auto sells whole rotor/hub/ABS assemblies ready to install.

The tone ring is pretty soft, so you don't want to really smack it hard, I imagine the stated need to replace it is due to getting heavy-handed and smashing it off and thus cracking it, which will cause the sensor to not read it right.
 

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There's a good tutorial on FSB about rotor removal with the tone ring. It is basically as described here using the studs to tap it off.
 

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Check this post on my build thread


Brass drift and hammer - the studs will knock it right out. Am I reading your post right that you got the studs out but the tone rings is still there? I'm not seeing how you could even do that....am I missing something?
 

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Thanks guys, it worked. I appreciate all the input and links of information. Now let's put this thing back together. I was going to change the bearings and seals but they look brand new, no cracks and discoloration. I think I'll just repack with grease and send them back to rockauto. The rotors and pads were very bad though so I'm glad I did this. Thanks again.
 

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When you put the new rotor on, use the nuts and some spacers to ensure the rotor is pulled up tight against the hub shoulder. I had a machine shop press new studs in and I got excessive stud movement just torquing them to 90 ft-lbs.

If you’re anal like me and indicate your rotors, expect to be disappointed. I’d advise to just stick them on and go. I chased it for a week with the machine shop and I got from 0.011” to 0.006”.
 

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With the studs, I used a punch pin to put them back in. Hit them as hard a I could and made sure they popped out the other side. I put new rotors and pads. When I tightened up the nuts on the wheel, I noticed I kept going and going. I assume because it was pulling the studs into place. I took it for a drive and everything felt good. An added bonus was this got rid of a squeak I had. I was hoping it was a bearing or the new pads a placed weren't working well with the old rotors. My dad thought it might be a u joint in driveshaft but luckily this did get rid of it.
 

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Thanks guys, it worked. I appreciate all the input and links of information. Now let's put this thing back together. I was going to change the bearings and seals but they look brand new, no cracks and discoloration. I think I'll just repack with grease and send them back to rockauto. The rotors and pads were very bad though so I'm glad I did this. Thanks again.
I wouldn't reuse that tone ring, looks like some of the teeth are pretty mangled, that's just my .02 cents though. When i did this I was able to source the ring individually but now it looks like you have to buy it as a package, On Rock's site anyway.
 

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They were actually in pretty good shape, just dirty. No teeth were messed up at all. I wasn't sure how to put it back on but I figured tap it in with a mallet. Seemed to work. I did notice my manual hubs are a little harder to turn from free to lock. I've never used it but they're definitely harder.
 

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Just don't set the tone ring to deep or it will activate the abs. I usually just set it flush with the hub flange. I usually take a chunck of 2x6 and tap it on.

For future reference, an air hammer makes setting the lugs back in a breeze.

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk
 
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