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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey,

To catch you up on the problem with my cooling system, read here.

So I pulled the fan off today, and did what Steve83 said. I originally wet the rad. down, but then decided to use and inf. thermometer to measure the temps. around the radiator.

Here are my results.

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I also noticed that on the trial with the water on the radiator, it was only evaporating off the front of the radiator, not the back.


What do you think? Clogged or not? If so, what are my options?...flush obviously, but since I live in southern california, should i just replace the radiator with a bigger one?

Thanks for all your help guys.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It's hard to say, how did it evaporate? Numbers don't mean a whole lot... I mean, they do, but again, watching how and where it evaporates is the way to tell.

Based on the way you describe it, I'd say replace.

Get the Heatbuster 4 core from AAP for <190 bucks.
as far as evaporation, it seemed only to evaporate on the grill facing side. but i only know that because thats where the steam came from. the engine facing side wasn't evaporating.

side note: the water pump shaft seemed to turn freely when i had the clutch/fan off. don't know if that makes a difference
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
How did it evaporate? Could you see a path where it dried first? Were there any areas of the front that took substantially longer to dry? That's why you're looking for during an evaporation test. That's what lets you know where the hot coolant is flowing.

Doesn't really let you know anything just by the shaft being free. The impeller in the pump could be shot and giving poor flow, but nothing coming from the weep hole, and the shaft could spin fine. Other symptoms would give a poor flowing pump away.
for the most part it went from top to bottom, natuarally a little faster on the IN side. after doing the evap test i thought i would pull numbers out of it to be more precise.

if you read in the other thread, the engine had a 4K overhall 6,000 miles ago, and im hoping the 4K would include a water pump. (the PO did it, and the recipt is hard to read)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Don't waste your time on a radiator from a junkyard. It likely won't be in any better condition than what you have.

If you know this radiator is at least several years old, then make the decision to flush your system good and try that as a cheaper alternative, and if you are still having problems, just go get the heatbuster, it's likely 2x's the radiator you have now anyway.

I had the bronco tow package and supercooling, so mine was at least a 2-3 core stock, and this radiator was bigger yet. 5 years now and it's been great.
Ya... i was fearing that would be useless. Well, i'll flush, and if were still having problems, i guess its a new radiator for me.

thanks for all the help guys.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ya... i was fearing that would be useless. Well, i'll flush, and if were still having problems, i guess its a new radiator for me.

thanks for all the help guys.
ok.. bringing back the thread here.

i havent flushed yet, BUT i did add a mech. temp gauge and its working beautiuly (thanks SigEpBlue).

i drove up a a gradual mountain road that went up a few thousand feet over 5-8 miles, maybe doing 45-50. i was keeping my eye on the temp and it never really rose above 205* and started having the same symptoms as my "overheating" problem. :banghead:banghead:banghead . it suddenly looses power, with hesitating and hick-uping and as you pull over it always shuts off. WTF!! this time could touch the pressure cap too right after pulling over... so thats not very hot. after 10-15 minutes with the hood popped, we can start up and go w/o symptoms and drive easy, but this time we went up another 800ft over 2.5miles and it crapped again. let it cool for 10 min, went DOWNHILL, went up a mile and crapped. never did the temp rise 205* when she threw a pissy fit.

i'll admit that im out of ideas, becasue to ME it doesn't sound like its overheating. my only other idea is that the fuel pumps are vapor locking? and i dont even know if that is possible.

PLEASE, PLEASE shoot me ideas, before i have to take it in. :whiteflagbefore i do that, im gonna pull codes and flush the radiator for good mesure. but i'm up in the mountains this whole week.

sorry for the long post, i just wanted to be as through as possible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Fuel pump is going bad. When was the last time you changed the fuel filter?

These are the exact symptoms mine displayed when the pump started going bad. It can't quite deliver the pressure within the range specified so you begin to have these issues, either 1) when climbing hills/mountains and gainging altitude, or 2) mine would do it on very hot days.

Pull over, pop hood, let it sit and cool some, close hood, drive on.
ya thats exactly what mine is doing! there is two fuel pumps right? one in the tank one... somewhere on the frame? Fuel filter was replaced less than 6 months ago.
 
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