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I'm debating if I should re-oil my KN intake filter or simply wash it and reinstall dry. I would then place panty-hose or something similar on the outside of the filter. Anyone run the KN filter dry before? Does a dry filter still catch the small silty elements? The reason I ask is that when I rebuilt my engine I had both my upper and lower stock intake manifolds in the parts washer for three days to loosen up all the grimmy sludge built up inside. I don't want that sludge to come back.
 

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If i'm not mistaken, it's the oil that traps the dirt on wet element filters. Look how porous(sp?) the filter is, and imagine how much dirt will get by without the oil. Myself, i'm over the whole k&n thing, i run a paper element filter, i really don't notice any huge difference running a k$n.
 

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Agreed. I mean that was the whole design behind these oil filters, but I was crossing my fingers to hear otherwise. Thanks Nick.
 

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Convoy, I woul not recomend running them dry even with a pre filter. I am looking at ump or another dry filter to see if I can find one the same size as the K&N. You can try using less oil most of us over oil the K&N including myself it really doesnt take much. I think you would find the small stuff like silt will come through the filter. I noticed the same thing on my intake tube that I have gotten some carryover of oil from the filter as well. I will try and get a look at the othr dry filters this weekend and see if one matches the size for the K&N and share the part number if i find it.
Jeremy
 

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Working on bmw's and porsche's we see alot of k-n's and the only problem we had so far was some people put to much oil and the mass air flow got oil on it and burned up. But the older cars have no issues!! Just my 2cents worth!
 

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look at the UMP filters they are dry filters also.im a fan of dry filters also.
Yes, UMP does make a good filter. Ran one for maybe 5 years across 3 cars when my father was racing. worked great. Another option would be to go with an AEM dry filter.
 

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k&n is not designed to run dry, you will suck tons of dirt in your motor if you go that way. just hold your k&n up to the light, you can see right through it, they are fine for street but for dirt you need something that filters better. i run k&n's with oil but i also run a foam wrap over it and i run that dry. if you are just running a stock replacement drop in filter than i would just go back to paper or run the aem dry that someone else mentioned.
 

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K&N Dry???

Experience tells us that a K&N is NG in the dust & silt. Just look in your intake and you will do like we did and throw them away. Now without the oil, the dirt and silt passing would be huge. The test is use a clean white tee shirt and wipe the inside of the air duct after the filter. You willbecom a believer.
These K&N filters made for low air resitance and that does not go with good filtering. They are made for hot rodders not desert guys. The $best$ comprimise is a stock filter, but one made by one of the top companies like Wix. If you have a stock air box that is the way to go just change it often. Ump is another excellent way to go. Ump has huge surface area and a swirl box and very tight air passages. Umps are dry. In fact one of the guys has a donaldson nano in his ump box. Others have the ump box but a Donaldson copy. Both work good. Right now I am running the Amsoil dry nano in the two desert trucks. High resistance and great filtration. No problem if the revs are kept low.

Another great solution would be to fab you own air box and put two 7.3 superduty filters in it (Amsoil nano). Result = very low restriction and very good filtraiton.

With the exception of the filters I know about in this message there may be a good comprimise out there with a dry filter, but I have a hard time believing the hype from the suppliers. An example is the latest Banks ad comparing filters. (No comment).

If you can fit an Amsoil nano filter in place of the K&N and it is also at least 50% bigger than the K&N then it would be a great solution.

Clean a Amsoil nano with low pressure air. Never wet it or oil it. You have to do it often just like the Donaldson. The trade off is oiling vs air cleaning. Still a pain. IMO.

Damn, all this experimenting is getting expensive. I am glad I have input from others with good examples.
Paul
 

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I grew up in an auto parts store in the CA Central Valley that catered mostly to Farms. We sold a lot of ridiculously expensive air filter for heavy farm equipment and guess what... all paper. For those of you that aren't familiar with farms in the Central Valley, they're hot, dry and DUSTY. If paper is good enough for $200,000 tractors then it's got to be good enough for any of my vehicles. As with most things on my truck, unless something else forces a change I'll stick with the stock air cleaner assembly.

Convoy, if the stock air cleaner assembly doesn't fit in your truck anymore and you're looking to make a change I would look into the later model Ford truck air cleaners and filters. The OE style conical air filters flow really well and are available at all parts stores.
 

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K&N filter with no oil = dangerous levels of dirt injested by the motor. DON'T DO IT!

For those of you who dont read race dexert regularly see
http://www.race-dezert.com/forum/showthread.php?t=49860
for a discussion on UMP use with carbs. For use with EFI the issue of swirl wont matter, but we all agree dual Umps are needed to get the correct flow. Now try toget 2 of those big thing in teh engine compartment of a Bronco!!!
Exactly... my advice is an AFE Pro-Guard 7 filter with a proper filter housing. No oil to mess with. Diesel guys have had good luck with them. It appears that testing shows a single UMP filter housing is barely adequate for even a mild smallblock V8.
 

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Okay I finally got around to digging up a replacemnet to the K&N conical filter with a dry filter:
K&N is:
RF-1017 Product Specifications
Product Style: Round Tapered Universal Air Filter
Base Outside Diameter: 7.5 in (191 mm)
Flange Inside Diameter: 6 in (152 mm)
Flange Length: 1 in (25 mm)
Flange Type: Centered
Height: 8 in (203 mm)
Top Outside Diameter: 7 in (178 mm)
Top Style: Metal
Top Material/Finish: Chrome
Filter Re-Oiling Amount: 1.99 oz (59 ml)
Flanges: 1
Footnote 1: Metal top plate has 1/4-20 stud
Inner Wire: No
Weight: 2.8 lb (1.2 kg)
Product Box Length: 11.7 in (297 mm)
Product Box Width: 11.4 in (290 mm)
Product Box Height: 9.8 in (249 mm)

and after much searching it looks likethe best option for a dry flow washable is through AFE,
Dimensions: 6" Flange ID x 7 1/2" Base x 5 1/2" Top x 7" Height
High Air Flow, High Filtration 360 degree conical filter
Oil-free and Washable and Reusable
Racing and custom application
100% Polyurethane base and top
Part number 21-60507
AEM does make one that would work but it is almost 3" shorter and i would be concerned that it will not flow enough CFM based on this I may be wrong though.
I just thought I would share this since I know a few of you were looking at other options as well. I will be ordering mine today so once i get it in I will let you know. I will be keeping the K&N for smog purposes though. Also AFE offers the flat style OEM filters as a dry filter as well for about 50 dollars. Hope this helps some of you.
 

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I saw this in the vendor forum "cold air intake" I wish he could only figure out how to post pics :doh0715:

http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=131928
Pics would be nice but I have not figured that out either :duh, THe only thing that I question on the cold air intakes at least for me is that the amount of heat in the engine bay especially from the headers I have a hard time believing that the air is any cooler. I thinnk the flow can be dramatically better though.
Jeremy
 
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