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Original owner: 1995 XLT 5.8L, 4wd shift on the floor, manual hubs
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Discussion Starter #1
To those who provided so much useful info on my initial post, THANK YOU!

I've begun to scrape, wire brush, and remove the large flakes of rust as everything was deemed structurally sound. Also, the tub turns out to have very little rust and the rust that is there appears to be relatively new as it is more in color than depth, woohoo!

My question as I begin to tackle what I can, how much of the rust should I scrape if I plan on using POR15? They say that it works best if the flakes are removed and you don't go to bare/clean metal...is this everyone's experience?

Also, for those that suggested a body off...I am trying to work a deal to use a bay at a garage for a week or two and serve as the labor while they are the brains...question, if I get everything I can before the tub comes off, is 1-2 weeks enough time in your opinion to get the rest of the rust handled and the tub/frame treated with POR15?

Final question, I've read different things about using rust removers versus elbow grease...thoughts? Brands/recommendations if you go the chemical route?
 

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If you can pull the body completely off thats way better, but also more work.
Just be careful not to toast any wiring or fuel or brake lines.
While you are at it, new body mount 'pucks'

POR is great stuff but it is an incredible mess.
When I painted my frame and body (body on, I did not lift) I used a full bunny suit, gloves, ad I even taped the seam between gloves and arms of suit
Even still after all this I had black POR all over me for a week or two
If it gets on your skin NOTHING will get it off, even acetone or laquer thinner. nothing.

While the POR may look good, if you really want to make the job worthwhile you should go back with a second coat
Also, bonus points for covering it with an enamel spray paint (1/10 th the work of the POR) to protect from UV

If I were to do it again, id consider applying the POR with some sort of spray wand (and a brush in the other hand to brush out drips)
If I went to the additional hassle of pulling the body off, I dont think it would use POR
I would get one of those mobile dustless blasting guys.....and then spray with a nice enamel or something very durable
 

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with a solid frame and good sheetmetal, a bronco is worth something.
Otherwise, its just an undone project
 

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160256

This is what mine looked like when I had them do everything under the sheet metal. Nice shop but I can tell you, they did not like doing it.
 

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Original owner: 1995 XLT 5.8L, 4wd shift on the floor, manual hubs
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Discussion Starter #5
When I get to the point of paint and sheet metal I'll have a shop work that as well. Just trying to do as much as possible myself and stay within my limits. Did you have body rust that needed to be repaired? I had one shop want to replace all the sheet metal before paint, easier for them....but I also like the idea of fixing the minor items (more time to cut and shape) and keep original metal. Thoughts?
 

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Cutting out all the cancer first and putting new metal in first is THE way to go.
Then seal it all up with POR, sandblast, ....whatever.

Want to keep ahead? Get yourself an inexpensive MIG welder (with Argon gas feed) and run the smaller 0.025" wire
Teach yourself how to weld sheetmetal and fix all the pieces that need replacing yourself
Get a 'skinny wheel' to cut metal with. The diamond ones last forever vs the fiber ones
Get another grinder and put a 60 grit flap wheel in it (aka a 'tiger paw')
A welder or a body shop will charge you GOBS of money to do this. You can save tons of time & money
 

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1996 EB w/5.8 TOO much lift, 44" Mudders & 5:43-5:38's
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I've used both POR-15 & Rustbullet and prefer the Rust Bullet product. It comes in several colors, more than the POR.
I used POR 15 White and it never dried, even after the can was opened for a week. I had to wash it all off and start over.
No matter which one you use, you should definitely do 2-3 thin coats. If you put in on thick, it will bubble and dull as it dries.
Here's a pic of mine with the Rust Bullet:



 
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85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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Remove any loose rust. Take a wire brush and clean out any real cratery areas. Wipe with acetone/xylene/lacquer thinner. Then apply. I concur with joe about the thin coats.

I prefer to use a rust converter and normal paint, after the prep.

Rustoleum rust reformer is a good aerosol product. Then I top it with their generic 2x product. That's how I've done my axles and it holds up great.

Another great option would be benjamin moore p23 oil base DTM (direct to metal). It's a true enamel, rust retarder, and as the name implies, self priming on ferrous metal. Treat the prep the same way as above. You can get it in semigloss too, P24, or a non DTM gloss p22. Though it does stick to bare aluminum like crazy. Used it on the bottom of my stump jumping jon boat. If you're interested in this route, lemme know. I sell it and could give your some more info.

Anywhere POR15 is exposed to sunlight, it needs a topcoat.
 

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Well, I’m a bad example. I didn’t want ANY rust. Since mine was never going to be a “concourse” Bronco, I just wanted the best one I could have. I replaced all of the sheet metal, including inner rear quarter wheel wells, radiator support, tailgate, hood, rear support member etc. As you can see, while that stuff was off they put the POR 15 where they thought they should. As it is working it’s way back together, I am doing what the others suggest; sanding, wire wheel etc then I’m spraying with fluid film.
 

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Original owner: 1995 XLT 5.8L, 4wd shift on the floor, manual hubs
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Discussion Starter #10
Well, I’m a bad example. I didn’t want ANY rust. Since mine was never going to be a “concourse” Bronco, I just wanted the best one I could have. I replaced all of the sheet metal, including inner rear quarter wheel wells, radiator support, tailgate, hood, rear support member etc. As you can see, while that stuff was off they put the POR 15 where they thought they should. As it is working it’s way back together, I am doing what the others suggest; sanding, wire wheel etc then I’m spraying with fluid film.
Thanks to all for the advice. Spending free time scraping, brushing and removing rust these days.

Did you replace the radiator core support yourself or have a shop do it? How difficult is it? Mine is shot!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Remove any loose rust. Take a wire brush and clean out any real cratery areas. Wipe with acetone/xylene/lacquer thinner. Then apply. I concur with joe about the thin coats.

I prefer to use a rust converter and normal paint, after the prep.

Rustoleum rust reformer is a good aerosol product. Then I top it with their generic 2x product. That's how I've done my axles and it holds up great.

Another great option would be benjamin moore p23 oil base DTM (direct to metal). It's a true enamel, rust retarder, and as the name implies, self priming on ferrous metal. Treat the prep the same way as above. You can get it in semigloss too, P24, or a non DTM gloss p22. Though it does stick to bare aluminum like crazy. Used it on the bottom of my stump jumping jon boat. If you're interested in this route, lemme know. I sell it and could give your some more info.

Anywhere POR15 is exposed to sunlight, it needs a topcoat.
Thanks. Making solid progress...removed the right front tire and spent hours in there over the weekend getting out the rust. Also discovered the radiator core support is rusted through, but was expecting that...

What are your thoughts on also using a pressure washer during rust removal?

Do you a degreaser (e.g., simple green) or simply the chemicals you mentioned?

Would love to hear more about the benjamin moore, haven't seen that thrown out before. As the original owner of my beast I'd love to get it set for another 25 years of fun, and pass it along to the kids (maybe). lol
 

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Discussion Starter #12
View attachment 160256
This is what mine looked like when I had them do everything under the sheet metal. Nice shop but I can tell you, they did not like doing it.
If you don't mind me asking, what did they quote you for new metal, prep, paint etc.? I had one shop here quote $12k for new metal (bumper to bumper), trim/exterior accessories/molding, pressure wash and spray frame/tub, and paint the exterior with kevlar paint.
 

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1989 Bronco, Eddie Bauer, Raven Black
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@Serf Keep at it. It’s nasty work whichever route you take. No easy out. Best to save some coin and do as much as you can yourself. I wish I knew how to weld.
 

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85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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Thanks. Making solid progress...removed the right front tire and spent hours in there over the weekend getting out the rust. Also discovered the radiator core support is rusted through, but was expecting that...

What are your thoughts on also using a pressure washer during rust removal?

Do you a degreaser (e.g., simple green) or simply the chemicals you mentioned?

Would love to hear more about the benjamin moore, haven't seen that thrown out before. As the original owner of my beast I'd love to get it set for another 25 years of fun, and pass it along to the kids (maybe). lol
The solvents I mentioned are purely for cleaning residuals off immediately before paint.

A power washer and degreaser (I like super clean and purple power) will do great for initial cleaning.

So I'll describe the P23 Benjamin Moore product. It is an alkyd low luster enamel designed for application directly to raw and/or rusty ferrous metals. It states not for aluminum or galvanized. Though it still sticks well. Flaking rust must be removed first. It is a rust inhibitor, and back in the days before political correctness, it was called retardo, because it retards rust.

It is an all in one product, meaning no secondary product has to be applied over it. Though two coats is preferred. I has a direct heat resistance of 250°F and intermittently higher. It is moderately self leveling. Drys tough as nails in a few days.

P24 is the semi gloss version.
P22 is an acceptable topcoat over the p23 if you want gloss.

We have all three being used by the local cellophane plant, inside and out. They hold up well to the extremely caustic environment. I can be used to paint machinery, trailers, equipment, structural steel, and even furniture.

They can all be sprayed, rolled, or brushed. All are available in over 3000 colors, and custom colors. However, the colors must be from the architectural spectrum, not automotive.

You will have to purchase it at a local dealer, as it's not sold by ACE hardware. I'd be happy to sell you some, but shipping oil based paint is extremely expensive, as its classified as HazMat.
 

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@Serf I see you are in DC. As much as I despise them, Spectrum Paints is probably your local dealer.
 

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If you don't mind me asking, what did they quote you for new metal, prep, paint etc.? I had one shop here quote $12k for new metal (bumper to bumper), trim/exterior accessories/molding, pressure wash and spray frame/tub, and paint the exterior with kevlar paint.
You know, I really can’t put a number on it. I ordered the parts through LMC etc. and had them delivered there. I just sent the shop $1000 bucks every now and then. I probably got a better deal than most. The owner of the shop painted my very first car over 40 years ago! 1970 GS Stage 1 Buick. Man was I cool back then! I’m willing to bet you could save 3-4 thousand doing a lot yourself. If you have the means, I’d be inclined to let them do it. It’s a lot of nasty work, time consuming etc. Depending on what you paid for the Bronco, you might be in an ok position.
 

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Thanks to all for the advice. Spending free time scraping, brushing and removing rust these days.

Did you replace the radiator core support yourself or have a shop do it? How difficult is it? Mine is shot!
They did it all. I’ll tell you where I do think I saved some money at the shop. My interior was stripped completely bare. So they didn’t have to take door panels etc off to get to mirrors, handles and the like. Probably saved many hours by me doing that work.
160490
 

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Discussion Starter #18
You know, I really can’t put a number on it. I ordered the parts through LMC etc. and had them delivered there. I just sent the shop $1000 bucks every now and then. I probably got a better deal than most. The owner of the shop painted my very first car over 40 years ago! 1970 GS Stage 1 Buick. Man was I cool back then! I’m willing to bet you could save 3-4 thousand doing a lot yourself. If you have the means, I’d be inclined to let them do it. It’s a lot of nasty work, time consuming etc. Depending on what you paid for the Bronco, you might be in an ok position.
Original owner here and pink slip says $23,400 for my '95 5.8L XLT.

Thanks for your responses!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
@Serf I see you are in DC. As much as I despise them, Spectrum Paints is probably your local dealer.
Thanks. We have a pretty good local store that sells BM and has done custom orders if needed so I'll see if they can get it if I go that route (leaning that way). Never one to hit up stores that others despise!
 

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85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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Spectrum is the devils company. They buy dying stores, pump a shit ton of money in em, and sell their products below the allowed limits. I know of one selling roller covers for 7 cents over cost. For 49 years my family has owned the exclusive BM store in our town of 120k. Spectrum bought a dying PPG store here and BM allowed them to carry BM products. Now all three Ace hardware's sell it too. So much for loyalty...
 
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