Rust Bullet and floor repair.

63638 Views 181 Replies 49 Participants Last post by dan1994, Sep 13, 2020

bossind

Discussion Starter · Dec 26, 2006

8

Due to a leaky front window my drivers side floor pan has become very rusty, after fixing the leak I decided it was time to do something about the floor. For Christmas this year my wife bought me a can of Rust bullet.

So this is what I had to start with - thanks to the underlay for keeping things damp! :banghead

First I scraped the tar sound proofing off, what a frig!

Ok after an hour of working out the Tar has been removed.

Now to strip the rust, paint and remaining tar off, I'm going to try this Rapid Strip wheel on my grinder. It doesn't harm the metal and won't dig into it.

Does a great job, I was impressed!

Now for the Rust Bullet but first I cleaned the floor with some brake clean and than using a foam brush I applied the Bullet. This is the first coating and I'll return tonight for the second. You need to wait 2 to 4 hours between coats.

I'm reall happy with the results and the rust Bullet goes far, you can't even tell I used anything from the can at this point.:rockon

I'll post the final pics later.

Update: Second coat completed, still looks the same so I didn't bother with another pic.

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Slickerthanyou

· #2 · Dec 26, 2006

Looks great, If you follow the directions and apply second coat it will never rust again. I did some rims and part of my frame a year or so ago and not one spot of rust. I live in the salt belt so it was tested very well!! That shit rocks, also sprays nice a hell too!- Bob

bossind

Discussion Starter · #3 · Dec 26, 2006

Slickerthanyou said:
Looks great, If you follow the directions and apply second coat it will never rust again. I did some rims and part of my frame a year or so ago and not one spot of rust. I live in the salt belt so it was tested very well!! That shit rocks, also sprays nice a hell too!- Bob

Good to hear! I hate rust. :beer

Joes93Bronco

· #4 · Dec 27, 2006

Where did you pick up that stripper thingy?

bossind

Discussion Starter · #5 · Dec 27, 2006

Joes93Bronco said:
Where did you pick up that stripper thingy?

At a store called Apex they carry drill bits, grinding wheels and such. I was in there one day getting cutting wheels and seen them, figure I'd give them a try. I'll be buying more now that I see they work so well and fast.

Snowman_87

· #6 · Dec 28, 2006

You do have to first remove all the rust before you can paint right? Its not one of those coverup-rust paints which bonds to rust right?

bossind

Discussion Starter · #7 · Dec 28, 2006

Snowman_87 said:
You do have to first remove all the rust before you can paint right? Its not one of those coverup-rust paints which bonds to rust right?

You can paint right over the rust, I was able to remove the rust here easily but wanted to make sure it didn't come back. I'm going to do my frame one of these days, kill and stop the rust.

metal1313

· #8 · Dec 28, 2006

when i do my skid plates and bumpers thats what im gonna use, it seems to work great. and they make those rapid strip things for drills but they shake like hell and grinders have much higher speeds so they work better but if u dont have a grinder go the drill route

bossind

Discussion Starter · #9 · Dec 28, 2006

metal1313 said:
when i do my skid plates and bumpers thats what im gonna use, it seems to work great. and they make those rapid strip things for drills but they shake like hell and grinders have much higher speeds so they work better but if u dont have a grinder go the drill route

Yeah I can see that, the Rapid Strip I used is good for 12000rpm, and it strips very fast. I'm sold on them.

Joes93Bronco

· #10 · Dec 28, 2006

I'm lazy and dont wana goto the Rust Bullet site. Does it require topcoating with paint or is it a stand alone product?

derrick36

· #11 · Dec 28, 2006

Joes93Bronco said:
I'm lazy and dont wana goto the Rust Bullet site. Does it require topcoating with paint or is it a stand alone product?

Nope, no topcoat.
It's made to stand alone. It looks fine, as long as you like silver.

Xris

· #12 · Dec 28, 2006

That looks great!! How much per gallon?

derrick36

· #13 · Dec 28, 2006

Xris said:
That looks great!! How much per gallon?

$116 per gallon. A little goes a long way. I was able to do my entire enterior(2 coats) with less than 2 quarts....Probably closer to 1 1/2 quarts.
I did the entire exterior(2 coats) with about 1 3/4 quarts.

Edit: I just noticed on the website, that there's a new "optional" top coat, and it's black. So for those that dont want the silver color, you can use their topcoat.
I'm not sure how much "stronger" the finish would be, but it's got a UV coating, that I would only guess wouldnt dull, and turn grey in the sunlight. If someone wanted a black exterior, that is tough as hell, this would probably be the way to go. Since it self levels, you wouldnt see any roller marks, and it would make for a cheap/durable paint job.

bossind

Discussion Starter · #14 · Dec 28, 2006

9

OK worked on the back of the bronco today, I just love this stuff!!

Ok you need your coffee, shit load of foam brushes, grinder and stripping discs, face mask and can of Rust Bullet. I spent no longer than 2 hours on this tonight.

This is what I began with.

Coffee break after 15mins and mask change, the spots is the result of dust in the air.

Time for a disc change on the grinder lasted 2/3s of the way.

Ok all cleaned up and wiped down with some sort of paint solvent that was in the shop.

Amazing!

Oh heck one more.

This shows you how much Rust Bullet I used to date and the amount of brushes I used in the back.

Stay tune as I continue onto the other panels.:drinkbud

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sewiv

· #15 · Dec 29, 2006

Looking good. I've got a gallon of RustBullet that I'm going to do my interior with, and use to stabilize some of the rust on the outside until I can get proper bodywork done. Glad to see how far it's going to stretch.

B-Rads B-Ronk

· #16 · Dec 29, 2006

Look great keep up the good work.

Snowman_87

· #17 · Dec 30, 2006

Ok so it can be applied directly on to rust spots...but its obviously better to remove any rust.
So if I want to paint my frame, I should remove any rust I can, but aside from that can I just go ahead and paint the frame the way it is?
How much rust bullet do you guys think Id need for that?

bossind

Discussion Starter · #18 · Dec 30, 2006

Snowman_87 said:
Ok so it can be applied directly on to rust spots...but its obviously better to remove any rust.
So if I want to paint my frame, I should remove any rust I can, but aside from that can I just go ahead and paint the frame the way it is?
How much rust bullet do you guys think Id need for that?

I wanted to remove as much rust as I could to do that and to make the metal smoother, I don't think you can removal all the rust cause it pits and lives inside the metal so Rust Bullet is a good way to kill whats left and give a great protection to the metal underneath.

I would buy a gallon and pick up a couple empty quart cans, fill the quart cans up from the gallon and save those for later, that way they don't get contaminated as you use your Rust Bullet from the gallon.

derrick36

· #19 · Dec 30, 2006

Snowman_87 said:
Ok so it can be applied directly on to rust spots...but its obviously better to remove any rust.
So if I want to paint my frame, I should remove any rust I can, but aside from that can I just go ahead and paint the frame the way it is?
How much rust bullet do you guys think Id need for that?

I would start small, and buy 1 quart. Do the outside of the frame rails 1st, and if you need more, for the inner portion, buy accordingly. I wanna say one quart would do your whole frame, but it depends on how thick you put your coats on...Dont be wasteful. Put on two LIGHT coats, to get the most coverage.

Definitely get whatever rust/dirt off the frame that you can...If you've got rust that's flaking off, take a wire brush to it. Consentrate on the dirt. It doesnt have a problem bonding with rust, but the dirt will cause problems.

bossind

Discussion Starter · #20 · Dec 31, 2006

2

Decided to remove the seam sealer from the bed seams to treat the rust in behind, besides it wasn't applied very nice from the factory so I'll redo it later before the bed liner gets sprayed in. Looks like I have some in fender repair to do as well - time to get the plasma cutter out.

I used a heat gun and a putty knife to remove the old sealer and than hit it with a wire grinder wheel.

Ok and Rust Bullet applied to the seam.

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