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The Anti Yam!
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Discussion Starter #1
I have removed all my carpet in order to eliminate surface rust that is under it.

My plan is to remove the rust and alot of the seam sealer witch has rust growing under it. Prep the floorboard and iner fenders,
and then brush POR-15 on the floor board and inner fenders. Put down sound deadining material, and reinstall the carpet and the rest of the interior.

Here are a few pics of the rust.









Its not all that bad just seface rust, thats why I am doing this know esier to fix surface rust than it is to fix rust holes.


Does this seem like a good plan to yall.

I'm also gonna clean everything while its out, and repaint stuff like the seat mounting brackets.

Also some people have said (Fireguy50) that home depo has sticky backed roofing material that is basically the same thing as Dynomat. I went to home depo and looked for it what i found was basicly sticky backed tar/asphalt is this the right stuff? If it is does it need anything put on top of it to keep it from ruining the carpet. In other words on a hot day is it guna melt and come thru my carpet.
:shrug

let me know what ya think:toothless
 

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OUT OF BUSINESS / M.I.A.
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10,858 Posts
Be warned that stuff stinks for a week or 2 of tar ;)
I'll take a picture of a unopened roll if you want?

If you want to get really cool, peal off the top film to expose the top sticky layer. Then add on a layer of kitchen alum foil :thumbup

I did that to the small parts of my floor to keep exhaust heat down.

None of my stuff "melts" even when the sun beats on my black truck all summer. but the alum foil would make sure you don't have any issues.
 

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The Anti Yam!
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Discussion Starter #3
Ah great mindes think alike.

I had thout about putting aluminum foil on top of it but I was just going to use spray adhesive.:toothless

As far as the smell I had also read about that. I plan on not putting the interior back in until the smell is gone.

As far as pictures go, yes please post a pic of the unopened role just to make sure I've got the wright stuff.

thank's alot Ryan for the advice :thumbup
 

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i had the same problem, when i took my truck to get painted i wire wheeled the rust and had them to paint the inside the same as the outside. juss a suggestion cause once you go por-15 there isnt any turning back...
 

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Cadillac of Men
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3,787 Posts
Yeah, use a wire grill brush or angle grinder w/ wire wheel to get rid of all the rust scale first. And make sure you follow the por directions exactly! all that prep work is very important for a permament paint job. Get the basic silver POR-15. It helps fill small pits in rusted metal better than the black or gray. Here are some pics of my floor after new pieces were welded in and painted with gray POR-15. My rust was 20x worse than yours.


 

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do you guys think por15 would create any issues with herculiner or like products?
 

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what you want to do since you have surface rust is to sandblast it down and then put some rust inhibitor but what ever you do, do not put on any rubberized undercoating because that puts a layer of water in between the metal and the rubber. since it is surface rust the only way i would professionally recommend or the way i would do it if i had to do it for my bronco is to sandblast. worth the effort you put into it.
 

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Cadillac of Men
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his rust is very minor, he doesnt need to sandblast it. after he removes the rust scale, painting POR-15 over what is left will cure all the rust. POR-15 is 9000x better than any other rust 'inhibitor' i have found. the sandblasting will just make a mess, and require you to paint a larger surface.

DSS: you can paint over POR-15. the base coat is basically a primer. you need to scuff or etch por-15 before painting anything else on it. or you can use their tie-coat primer, which will tie the por-15 to whatever you choose for a topcoat.
 

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That's gorgeous!
How much should I look at spending to do my whole interior, top and bottom? (minus the camper)
 

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What's the worst that this can get? What I mean is what is the worst/rustiest rear floor area any of you have seen in a bronco? Myfirst truck
(87 blazer) was pretty rusty in the rear cargo area under the carpet (rear corners especially). I know some vehicles are more prone to rust than others so I just wondered how bad this problem can get because I don't want to deal with floors that are half way gone.

Nebraska Loves Salting The Streets!!!!!
 

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Practicing Infidel
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15,299 Posts
metalhead said:
What's the worst that this can get? What I mean is what is the worst/rustiest rear floor area any of you have seen in a bronco? Myfirst truck
(87 blazer) was pretty rusty in the rear cargo area under the carpet (rear corners especially). I know some vehicles are more prone to rust than others so I just wondered how bad this problem can get because I don't want to deal with floors that are half way gone.

Nebraska Loves Salting The Streets!!!!!
Bo knows rust in Ontario Canada !

Luckily mine wasn't any worse than what I've seen in the pictures. Finding the access hole covers wasn't easy, I think I went through 10 or more Ford trucks and Bronco's in the yards getting enough good ones. seemed they rust out first, guess I can be thankful it wasn't the floors yet.

Getting POR 15 across the Canadian border is like pulling teeth, and almost as expensive as the dentist too. I just put the wire brush attachment onto the 7" grinder and cleaned off any of the mild surface rust and hit it with a rust inhibitor and then re-painted. Hope that holds it off til I can afford to import some POR-15.

Real good tip for cleaning the carpets when you take them out: I slapped them on top of the picnic table and had at them with the $100.00 pressure washer with the turbo attachment. Don't bother using soap, they ran white foam for 15 minutes as it was from all the previous shampoo that was obviously still in the rugs.

Man, it works great !!!!!!!!!!! 18 year old rugs came out like new. You know the spot on the driver's tranny tunnel where your muddy size 12 rests and reduces the carpet to dirty leather ? Like new, I ain't kidding !

Try it, takes a day or more to dry, but so does all the floor treatment paints,etc.

Sixlitre
 

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i did the same thing with my carpet this summer, it worked great. my mom wanted me to do hers as well, and now my sister wants the treatment.
 

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Practicing Infidel
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dsickles said:
i did the same thing with my carpet this summer, it worked great. my mom wanted me to do hers as well, and now my sister wants the treatment.
Sure does, can't believe that much soap was left over in the rug.

Only drawback is you've gotta take the seats and belts out to remove the carpet. Thought I'd get a couple of years out of the wash, but MY sister dropped a whole bowl of her vegan daal soup all over the rug in front of the console !

Thanks Sis !

Sixlitre
 

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That Dynomat looking stuff is called Ice Gaurd here in Canada. Been using it as a cheap alternative to Dynomat or sound killer etc.

A couple hints, absolutley clean metal, good prep is the key and use a heat gun to mold the material into crevices. It can take some forming but not too much as it will tear.

A big problem is the stink the stuff has. Yeah we also used the tin foil over method for reducing heat. Doesn`t last very long, but it does help.

Alot of stereo competitors are using the same stuff to reduce vibration and to dampen the door panels etc against resonance.
 
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