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Discussion Starter #1
OK so I tried searching and combing through some pages with no luck. What I'm needing help with is I'm looking for my first project and it happens to be a FSB. I know rust is bad, but not all rust. I need help in identifying what areas I should be looking at. What is repairable and what I should stay away from. I would say my budget is medium to to tight on purchase but I can take my time on the rebuild. Any help is awesome, pictures would be great too.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Should have mentioned I'm looking for a 90's Bronco.
 

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Ford Hoarder
78 & 92
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Rear fender lips, front fender right below the badge (if they are still there), rear tailgate as mentioned. Then look at rear shackles and tank skid plate. I always feel the rear fender lips and run you finger on the bottom of the gate, if it extra thick it means its been "fixed" and most likely not correctly. Should just be sheet metal thickness on fenders and a double layer on the bottom of the tailgate.
I would also look under the front at the core support, those like to rust out too.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Great response and what I was looking for. I've read the lift gate and fenders are problem areas. Should I also be checking weld areas? Anything else I need to look for?
 

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check all underside ,crossmembers and body mount areas of tub

a and b post near floor as well,specially b post

check front floors also,that may be from cowl leak

bolt on body parts are less of an issue, easy to change out
 

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The body around the rear wheel wells, mostly because the paint gets scratched there

Check all spring hangers and body mounts. If you're willing to replace them they're a good way to talk down the price

Everything aft of the rear axle. The tires really kick up a lot of salt into the bodywork

Check the gas tank.

The bottom of the tailgate commonly rusts

Core support can rust really badly between the frame rails and around the body mounts.

Here in the northeast I always tell people to buy used cars that have oil leaks.
 

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Here in the northeast I always tell people to buy used cars that have oil leaks.
I bought my bronco and i am in NY, and i have an oil pan leak, and my bronco is very clean underneath, i am guessing the leak means that there is not allot of rust/corrosion on the vehicle?
 

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My Bronco has a lot of rust in all the common areas, and rust in some probably not-so-common areas, so I'll list them all:

Radiator support, right at the bottom where it bolts to the frame

Bottom of B-pillars

Rear wheel lips

Top of the rear wheel wells

Body mount right under driver's floor pan, and hole in the floor right there

Tiny rust hole in bottom of driver's door

Bottom edge of tailgate (if this is significantly rusted, beware the torsion bar brackets inside are probably rotted, and the torsion bar can shatter the window when opening the tailgate)

Lots of rust right at the rear-most edge of body on the floor, where the tailgate is. That whole rear cross-bar is rotted and has large holes in the sheet metal.

The rear leaf spring shackles are also extremely common; mine were already replaced before I bought the truck.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Any chance I can get some pictures of these areas. I know some of the areas that are being mentioned but I need to be sure when I'm looking. I plan on inspecting this from top to bottom. I don't want to get into something that can't be fixed.
 

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This is a spot for A pillar problems


This is what early rust cancer looks like. give that a couple of months of wet weather and you can poke your finger thru it.


Notice how the cab corners are cracked. another very common issue with broncos. water will come in here and drip down the inside of the skin and rot out the bottom of the B pillar as well as the area shown above...


The drip channels are another bad spot.... it looks like someone attempted a repair at some point and the attempt failed.


Another area of concern.


This is another spot here caused by the cab cracks.



Thats all the examples I have. Thats the only rust issues I have on the whole truck.
 

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yo, I agree with all;
We have a 96, bought it new in May 96 and basically, we "over-maintain" it...meaning 3k mile oil/filter changes & lube, all filters changed, etc.. using Ford's severe duty schedule;
Maintenance Schedule

One of the most reliable daily drivers and beach run/light off road vehicles we've have ever had (incl the ex 78).
Still, we had minor problems that we addressed quickly.
(btw, you prob know all this)
Besides the usual visual, driveability and leak checks, look for:
While you take a test drive, have someone to stay behind or follow and check for exhaust smoke- cracked exhaust manifold/Y, etc.
-Besides the usual visual, driveability and leak checks, look for:
RUST:
oil pan, our's formed spots @ 62k miles - sand it down and prime/paint it w/ Rustoleum high temp. paint
tailgate drains for clogs/rust; check weather seals, esp the outer ws on glass
radiator core support rust where it bolts to the frame
rain gutters, bottom of B-pillars & A pillars
gas tank
leaf spring shackles
body mounts and frame
floor pan esp around rear seat belt mount
inner rear fender lips, bottom of B pillars and bottom of tailgate (fender lips are rusting due to Ford's flawed spot weld process on the inner (tub) and 1/4 panel that lets moisture & debris in the seam) - A Bronco may need extensive & $$$ patch or full panel replacements...


radiator plastic side seam leaks, esp. during engine cool-down period/overnight - our's leaked @ 50k miles & again just recently - look for leaks after engine has cooled down, esp overnight
auto tranny - E4OD had a lot of improvements made by 96 so look for good shifts and see the maintenance records; fluids/filter should have been changed every 30k miles and less if used for towing - look for leaks around pan from (front) Pump seal as well as engine rear main/timing chain cover seals, etc.
radius arm bushing deterioration (I coated em w/pure silicone, from day 1) but replaced at 80k miles w/Daystar polyurethane bushings
Programmable Speedometer Odometer Module (PSOM in 92-96), make sure it works; look for a waver in the needle at highway speeds; most get yard units for DIY
transfer case operation - electric push button motor/connector is a prob. area; usually a broken travel stop or the motor connector is fouled, etc.
cracked exhaust manifold/Y, etc.
emissions air check valve & cat. converter (AIR) tubes tend to rust early; as does the AIR tube; buy locally or from pciinc.com
Cruise/Speed Control Deactivation Switch for 93-96 Bronco, & most all Fords is under ongoing Recall (fire hazard; check for status @ Ford dealer with VIN.



look for some maint records or contact a dealer to see what maint was done to it a Ford dealership in the past (need VIN)
or on-line dealer service record summaries (Ford is adding entries now), etc. at Ford myford.fordvehicles.com (need VIN) & must register if you haven't already for your other Fords.

If no maint records are avail; check and replace if needed all filters and fluids.
Esp if it is an Auto tranny; fluid level; when at norm op temp; after running thru all gears & reverse; no burnt toast or whitish (water) deposits on dip stick.

For a 96 get it checked for codes free at Parts Stores if you don't diy

Also the Check Engine Light (CEL) comes on when the electronic engine control system is not working properly. The check engine warning indicator comes on briefly when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON, and should turn off when the engine starts. If the check engine warning indicator does not come on when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON or if it comes on while the vehicle is moving, the system is malfunctioning
If the CEL does not light up at all when starting it; then suspect that bulb is burnt-out or loose, socket was damaged by PO or shop, etc. or someone removed it.

Same for Amber ABS lamp in Instr Panel..
The anti-lock brake electronic control module monitors the electromechanical components of the system. Malfunction of the anti-lock brake system will cause the Anti-lock brake electronic control module to shut off or inhibit the system. However, normal power assisted braking remains. Malfunctions are indicated by the amber ABS warning light inside the vehicle.

The 4-wheel anti-lock brake system is self monitoring. When the key is placed in the RUN position, the anti-lock brake electronic control module will perform a preliminary self check on the anti-lock electrical system indicated by a momentary illumination of the amber ABS warning light in the instrument cluster. During vehicle operation, including normal and anti-lock braking, the anti-lock brake electronic control module monitors all electrical anti-lock functions and some hydraulic operations.

In most malfunctions of the anti-lock brake system, the amber ABS warning light will be illuminated. However, most malfunctions are recorded as a coded number in the anti-lock brake electronic control module memory and assist in pinpointing the component needing service. If system is OK, Code 16 will be present.
Our module blew the microprocessors a few years ago and two yard modules were bad. No returns so I'm running without 4WABS, just like the old days.

Suggest you buy the official FORD Powertrain Controls and Emission Diagnosis (PCED), Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM) on DVD (ensure it will operate on your pc, etc. WIN8 and 8.1 can not read any CDs or DVDs under 64 Bit)
96 Owners Guide by Hiller Ford http://www.hillerford.com/resource_l...d/96bronco.pdf

96 Bronco-F-Series Workshop Manual (PARTIAL) by dieseldave http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stjleft.htm
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So the examples given are repairable? Or should I run away. It looked like some was repaired with bondo. Is this normal repair or do people replace the panel?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
My goal for now is to stay away from rust.
 

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Forward Some Money
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One spot of BIG concern is the rear crossmember right under the rear cargo floor. It basically supports the whole back end of the truck. A replacement / patch panel is not available and not easily replaced. It is a common rust area in rust belt areas.

Check by the rear most body supports. Crawl under the rear bumper and look up.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks JR. Got a pic of the area? What about surface rust. It seems this would be easy to repair. Thoughts?
 

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Charlie don't surf..
'92 Ford Bronco XLT
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So the examples given are repairable? Or should I run away. It looked like some was repaired with bondo. Is this normal repair or do people replace the panel?
Yes, it's repairable, mine was actually rusted through in a few areas, so I had to use a combination of panel adhesive and welding to add new metal..


My goal for now is to stay away from rust.
this is always the safest bet, but finding something completely rust free can be a challenge..
 
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